FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Steel Soldiers is supported by:

joeblack5

Active member
149
77
28
Location
State College PA
anyone had to work on the 4x4 not working....?
manuals only show how to replace, not how to fix problem ?:mad:
3 components...
All Wheel Drive Selector Valve Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-240
All Wheel Drive Pressure Regulator Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-242
All Wheel Drive Control Cylinder Replacement and Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-243

Old post , but, did you rebuild or get a new cylinder. My 4x4 is not working either, looks like stuck cylinder.. took one side of the post and can now put in 4x4 by hand.

Thanks J
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,693
92
48
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I always drive with my hand on the lever, ready to lower the loader NOW, in iffy situations.
And I'd never run with the load that high off the ground, unless necessary for some odd reason.
 

joeblack5

Active member
149
77
28
Location
State College PA
I always drive with my hand on the lever, ready to lower the loader NOW, in iffy situations.
And I'd never run with the load that high off the ground, unless necessary for some odd reason.
Thank you, yes Rookie here, there were reasons but probably not good enough for this amount of stress.
I have a two post car lift hanging from the bucket. To clear something in the barn I had to lift it high up. Also, before I ' fixed" the 4wd I could not get out of the barn because the rear wheels slipping. Figured that bringing it higher would getting it closer to the cab and get more pressure to the rear.. Ah well after the 4wd " fix" Mogli got out. My bucket controls are sticking and me be a non certified operator so did not want to mess with them..

well lessons learned nobody got hurt.

On to my 4x4air cylinder, stickingbucket controls...leaking swing cylinder and.....
J
 

911joeblow

Member
Supporting Vendor
470
3
18
Location
Utah
I unfold the excavator and park it centered up or if really bad lowered down a bit. Give a ton of counterbalance.

Yeah. Possible. Just hoping someone had figured out a bimba replacement part number. The original seems aluminum.. Stainless would have been nicer.

Today mogli lifted a leg to pee... I almost dirties my undies..going down the hill with a load in the front.
 

joeblack5

Active member
149
77
28
Location
State College PA
Thank you... I disconnected the loader lever from the hydraulics to see what is sticking.
The central shaft is more or less stuck inside the outer bushing making both levers more or less connected.. Took a while to get the central shaft out.. Fortunately the driver seat goes far enough to the front to separate it.. Will put in on the lathe and take a little of.
 

Speedwoble

Member
437
21
18
Location
New Holland, PA
Thank you... I disconnected the loader lever from the hydraulics to see what is sticking.
The central shaft is more or less stuck inside the outer bushing making both levers more or less connected.. Took a while to get the central shaft out.. Fortunately the driver seat goes far enough to the front to separate it.. Will put in on the lathe and take a little of.
I had a similar issue on Mog #2 and cleaned up the ID and OD of old dry grease and rust. Worked like new!
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,693
92
48
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Thank you... I disconnected the loader lever from the hydraulics to see what is sticking.
The central shaft is more or less stuck inside the outer bushing making both levers more or less connected.. Took a while to get the central shaft out.. Fortunately the driver seat goes far enough to the front to separate it.. Will put in on the lathe and take a little of.
I wouldn't remove any material, since it used to be nice fit. Instead, try removing the gunk and corrosion like Speedwoble suggested.
It'd be less work, and a lot less than trying to get new material in there if it all ends up too sloppy.
 

911joeblow

Member
Supporting Vendor
470
3
18
Location
Utah
Agree, just steel wool or a fine wire brush on a bench grinder for the shaft and rifle brushes for the female stuff. These clean up really nice. Modern synthetic grease wont gump up like the old stuff.
 

joeblack5

Active member
149
77
28
Location
State College PA
Cleaned it all of but no luck. The internal diameter is smaller at the side where the handle is clamped onto the tube.
Took a 3/4" reamer and that fitted inside the tube upto the last 1".. After the cutting the 19MM shaft ran smooth in the 3/4" reamed hole. Put the whole thing back together and oiled the lever construction at the other side of the cab wall.

Amazing .. Each lever now works independently and i can feel the indents in the lever.... even the float position "appeared"

Thanks all for the help
 

mberetta

Member
32
1
8
Location
Utah
So after going through every fuel starvation post I could find on SS for this beast I narrowed things down to the entire fuel system is crap! Well... ...at least mine was.

Kinked lines
Rotted fuel filters
Multiple cracked brass fittings (air leaks)
Broken internals in the lift pump
Corrosion of a ridiculous quantity in the pre-filter
Bad primer
and so on.

So after I replaced/repaired these still no start. I resorted to opening up the inspection panel on the injection pump and had my son crank it over. As I feared, 2 barrels seized. Inside the cab I had noticed that the doghouse wouldn't sit properly at the back of the engine. The metal lip around the opening had been smashed down. It took a lot of curiosity to finally figure out why. It appears that the rack in the injector pump was frozen from the 2 barrels. So apparently someone used a long rod and a hammer to pound on the lever that goes into the side of the governor. This seems to be the cause of the damaged lip around the doghouse opening in the floor. Also, upon moving the lever on the side of the governor, with the inspection panel off of the IP I can see that the rack is not moving back and forth. They clearly broke something in there.

I fix most anything that I run into, but after watching a tear down video of these pumps it was clear to me that I do not have the proper tools to do the job right. I can get by without the proper tools in many situations but from what I've read, this is not something that is very forgiving of mistakes.

I bought a "new old stock" replacement pump BUT...

  1. It did not come with the o-ring that goes in-between the pump and the timing housing. (Replacement suggested in manual)
  2. I can't seem to find a gasket online for between the pump and the timing housing. (Replacement suggested in manual)
  3. I'm reading others say that the timing gear nut torque in the manual is not correct. However, I have not seen anybody post the correct torque spec.
  4. I also need a source for the shaft key, spring tension washer, the copper fuel line seals/packings and the copper oil supply seals. (Replacement suggested in manual)

Capture01.JPG
Capture02.JPG

Here is a better view of the main seal location:

Capture03.JPG

Now I hope nobody jumps all over me. I just want to say that I have been searching for each of these for hours. I don't know if I'm just not searching correctly, but I'm not coming up with the results. Also, I'm not trying to get anyone to do the legwork for me. I just thought that someone may have already been through this and had some info that would help.

I did find the key number (006888004013) but searches didn't return any for sale.
I'm assuming these would all come in a kit.

Is it just me, or is it crazy that the manual gives part numbers for the tools to use but not the replacement parts in the "initial setup" section?

Capture04.JPG

Any help is very much appreciated.
 
Last edited:

peakbagger

Member
524
19
18
Location
northern nh
Bosch injection pumps are used in a lot of equipment. You may be able to get parts from a Bosch dealer. I havent taken my pump off but copper crush washers are available in standard assortments. The folks at Belmetrics are not Bosch injection pump folks but they are Unimog owners and may have chased the hardware you need. The OM352 engine combination was used far more in Europe and you need to be talking to European suppliers. Neil at Merex may be resource.

Good luck.
 

mberetta

Member
32
1
8
Location
Utah
Bosch injection pumps are used in a lot of equipment. You may be able to get parts from a Bosch dealer. I havent taken my pump off but copper crush washers are available in standard assortments. The folks at Belmetrics are not Bosch injection pump folks but they are Unimog owners and may have chased the hardware you need. The OM352 engine combination was used far more in Europe and you need to be talking to European suppliers. Neil at Merex may be resource.

Good luck.
Thank you! I have been so disappointed with the luck of the draw that I got with this thing. I feel so close to finally having it up and running. It's hard to have these little things holding me back.
 

Speedwoble

Member
437
21
18
Location
New Holland, PA
I bought a "new old stock" replacement pump BUT...

  1. It did not come with the o-ring that goes in-between the pump and the timing housing. (Replacement suggested in manual)
  2. I can't seem to find a gasket online for between the pump and the timing housing. (Replacement suggested in manual)
  3. I'm reading others say that the timing gear nut torque in the manual is not correct. However, I have not seen anybody post the correct torque spec.
  4. I also need a source for the shaft key, spring tension washer, the copper fuel line seals/packings and the copper oil supply seals. (Replacement suggested in manual)
Is it just me, or is it crazy that the manual gives part numbers for the tools to use but not the replacement parts in the "initial setup" section?

Any help is very much appreciated.
I am sorry to hear that you have had such a go of it getting your truck operational. It is frustrating to have problems, even more frustrating when someone else caused them by incompetence or lack of patience, and most frustrating when they were caused by my own incompetence or lack of patience. Thankfully you have arrived at level 2 frustration, but not level 3.
I also want to thank you for a very excellent post; well formatted and documented. I would suggest, a moderator could move it, or you could move it to an existing Injection pump thread, that would make finding it easier later. Like this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/flu419-fuel-injection-pump-removal.169362/

In that, I raise the issue that the torque spec for the injection pump is way off, but don't provide the correct torque spec. I believe that was because I didn't have my notes in front of me at the time. If I remember, I will try to look at my notes tonight. But, I highly recommend talking to a local Injection pump rebuild place. In my case, I had an NOS pump that came with my mog and they cautioned me that the brand new pumps sitting on a shelf for a long time will gum up the barrels with the fluid that remained from the factory assembly/ initial calibration.. Given the challenges you have had thus far, it might be worth the $300(charged by my local shop) for a cleaning and calibration of your NOS pump. Then they can get you the other parts and the torque spec you need at the same time. I would highly recommend connecting with one to get the last of the bits you need.

<rant> I have seen in automotive for a long time that mechanics have fallen into the parts replacement mentality instead of repair mentality. Maybe my area is unique, but whenever I have a starter, alternator, or injection pump issue, the local specialty shops have been able to get me parts, or repair it themselves for less than a replacement. Sadly these places are dying out and their knowledge is being lost. A local injection pump rebuild shop could have fixed your original pump for less than the cost of NOS pumps I have seen, and turned the fuel up a little bit while they were at it. These Bosch P pumps are common and parts are readily available. Alternatively I have a couple of pump cores for sale. My local shop sold me the crush washers for a few bucks, far cheaper than I could get online, if I even knew what to look for. <\rant>
 
Last edited:

rtrask

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
239
42
28
Location
Littleton, Colorado
While crawling around under my SEE, I discovered a steady stream of what I believe is hydraulic oil running down the rear drive shaft cover. I have been hunting for the source but can't seem to locate it. As fast as the oil is flowing, it should not be that hard to find. It seems to start under the front mounting bracket and above that everything is dry. There is nothing obviously dripping Any Ideas?

 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks