FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

I don't worry about someone stealing the fuel, up in the woods, it far more likely someone will fill the tank with dirt.

That's if GovPlanet didn't beat them to it.

 

[Another Ahab]

I don't worry about someone stealing the fuel, up in the woods, it far more likely someone will fill the tank with dirt.

Is that what's called "Northern Hospitality" up there?!

 

[Bikers33]

Finding a replacement switch was easy. Where I failed was in figuring out how to get that panel out, or out of the way, to get to the cable connections. Especially with that useless, large bundle of wires for the diagnostic plug in place.
The plate is clearly set up to remain in place when the cab is lifted, which makes sense. At least that's how it seemed on the dark and stormy night I attempted its removal.

Remove the 8 bolts that hold down that small plate. Remove charge valve button then remove 2 bolts that hold down trailer charge valve and move it aside by lifting plate enough to gain access. Easy peasey.... kind of.
TM 5-2420-224-20-2 p.4-221

 

[Bikers33]

It's a Bosch part, as I recall. And older NOS may well be better than recent production. Then again, maybe not.

And as long as the contacts are rated to 24 volts.. NOS is always way better.

 

[General Hood]

Did one of you lucky members win that SEE on GP auction today, you know, the one where the wiring harness caught fire when they tried starting it?
I was kinda betting on Ron, knowing his love for the delicacies of wiring one of these beasts

 

[The FLU farm]

Remove the 8 bolts that hold down that small plate. Remove charge valve button then remove 2 bolts that hold down trailer charge valve and move it aside by lifting plate enough to gain access. Easy peasey.... kind of.

I tried to give you three "Thanks", but the system wouldn't let me.
Not that I think my cut-off switch is guilty for what the charging system is doing now (spraying some JB-80 into it seems to have helped), but your described method would give access to the wiring for the diagnostic plug.

 

[The FLU farm]

And as long as the contacts are rated to 24 volts.. NOS is always way better.

Hmm. Wouldn't a 12 Volt rated switch be better, being that it'd only have to deal with half the amperage when used for 24 Volts?

 

[patrol578]

I posted a few months back about looking for a passenger seat. Does anyone have one they are not using. I am also looking for a fuel cap for the FLU.

The European websites may be your best bet for that seat. Prices aren't too bad right now, with the strong dollar. I've recently found a few things over there which were either unobtainable or just super expensive from US sources. A lot more unimogs get parted out over there.

 

[Bikers33]

Hmm. Wouldn't a 12 Volt rated switch be better, being that it'd only have to deal with half the amperage when used for 24 Volts?

LOL

 

[The FLU farm]

Yesterdays trip to Denver was well worth it. Came back with a very lightly used 12-inch bucket for cheap, and four Unimog wheels also bought for a fair price.

I've dismounted hundreds of tires but can't recall ever finding so much corrosion on the rims. Makes me wonder what kind of steel Mercedes used - maybe from the same supplier as Renault, Fiat, and Alfa Romeo used for body panels in the Seventies and Eighties?
And do these wheels rust on the outside, where it doesn't matter? Nooo, they have to rust right at the critical area of the tire's bead.
Luckily, the Super Swampers going on these wheels have a longer lip on the beads than do the Michelins, so at least they won't try to seal at the same place. Still, the lateral corrosion grooves (pictured), of which there were several, aren't exactly helping. Oh well, a little silicone will hopefully help, this time, too.

 

[Another Ahab]

Yesterdays trip to Denver was well worth it. Came back with a very lightly used 12-inch bucket for cheap, and four Unimog wheels also bought for a fair price.View attachment 670103
.

Nice score on the bucket (and good teeth, too)!

Are you going to hard-face it, or leave it as-is?

 

[The FLU farm]

Nice score on the bucket (and good teeth, too)!

Are you going to hard-face it, or leave it as-is?

It was less than half of what a new aftermarket bucket would've cost, and less than most of the beat up used ones I've seen advertised. Yeah, that was a good score.
It'll mostly be used in soft dirt, for the smaller irrigation ditches, so no need to do anything special to it. Unless peakbagger wants to borrow it.

 

[The FLU farm]

Didn't exactly look forward to mounting tires on the new wheels, remembering the black eye a tire iron gave me last time, but while cleaning and painting them I noticed that they had been dismounted on a tire machine. Hmm.
I could lift a wheel onto the tire machine, and roll a tire up on the wheel. But getting the combo off the tire machine would be a different story. Maybe with the skyhook? Only one way to find out.
Much to my delight, it worked. I really do need to build some sort of crane over the tire machine, though.

The success made me so giddy that I painted the outside of the wheels, too. Prematurely, since they should sit overnight and prove to be leak free, but I couldn't help myself.Tomorrow will have to be other activities, such as installing the electric fuel pump on the parts SEE. Anything that doesn't require lifting...for a few days.
But hey, it got done without having to beg for assistance. That's worth hurting a bit for.

 

[jstark45xd]

Thank you BigBison! I got the wiring schematic today!

 

[911joeblow]

Before I go crazy digging all over my SEE I though to ask the group if they have been down this road.

I have had everything working great on my SEE. The air system is perhaps too good as it goes to 150PSI if I am not careful to release some pressure with the hand trailer brake or emergency button. At any rate by air overdrive or doubler stopped working. I hear the air sound when I push or pull the switch but no action? Any words of wisdom before I spend all day digging around?

 

[Hermannator]

New Purchase

 

[Hermannator]

Hermannator
San Antonio, TX
Hermannator.088@gmail.com
1FG9999991JM4815

 

[Another Ahab]

new purchase

Do you mean a FLU; that you recently purchased a FLU?

 

[Bikers33]

Before I go crazy digging all over my SEE I though to ask the group if they have been down this road.

I have had everything working great on my SEE. The air system is perhaps too good as it goes to 150PSI if I am not careful to release some pressure with the hand trailer brake or emergency button. At any rate by air overdrive or doubler stopped working. I hear the air sound when I push or pull the switch but no action? Any words of wisdom before I spend all day digging around?

Check your safety switch on the clutch.. Start it up and let the air build up then shut it off. Turn on your ignition (battery switch too) but don't start it. Move the shifter plunger up and down and listen for the air cylinder, you should hear a little clunk. The clutch switch is also used to trigger a solenoid valve which then provides air to the hi/lo slave valve. There are two circuits on the clutch switch, wire #214/215 is for the start and wire #23a is the solenoid valve circuit.
Your air pressure is due to the regulating valve not opening at 108 psi.. it's gummed up with s..t I'm willing to bet,probably needs cleaning or a rebuild.....I think there is a video on u tube if memory is not failing me.
Hope this helps, good luck.

 

[The FLU farm]

Today's meaningful achievement was to install the Super Swampers on the SEE. What a difference! Only drove about half a mile but it was obvious almost instantly that the Michelins were gone. And to put things in perspective, that was with the backhoe in "normal backhoe position", not folded down as it should be on a SEE.
It still didn't wallow nearly as much.

Inspired, switching to the 12-inch bucket was next. That failed. The upper pin came out okay, not so the lower.
Most likely it's the sleeve between the links that put up a fight. Eventually got it to turn, by crudely using a large pipe wrench, but the pin is still not budging. If/when you work on this part of your backhoe, make sure that the seam in that sleeve is facing down when the hoe is in its normal travel position.On this SEE it was not, so 20-something years of moisture, aided by generously applied paint (except over the seam, of course) has done its thing.
Lots of JB-80 was applied and it'll hopefully soak in over night.

Meanwhile, I should probably install this gizmo from EI so that I stop running in circles.