- 3,338
- 1,319
- 113
- Location
- The actual midwest, NM.
That's if GovPlanet didn't beat them to it.I don't worry about someone stealing the fuel, up in the woods, it far more likely someone will fill the tank with dirt.
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
That's if GovPlanet didn't beat them to it.I don't worry about someone stealing the fuel, up in the woods, it far more likely someone will fill the tank with dirt.
Is that what's called "Northern Hospitality" up there?!I don't worry about someone stealing the fuel, up in the woods, it far more likely someone will fill the tank with dirt.
Remove the 8 bolts that hold down that small plate. Remove charge valve button then remove 2 bolts that hold down trailer charge valve and move it aside by lifting plate enough to gain access. Easy peasey.... kind of.Finding a replacement switch was easy. Where I failed was in figuring out how to get that panel out, or out of the way, to get to the cable connections. Especially with that useless, large bundle of wires for the diagnostic plug in place.
The plate is clearly set up to remain in place when the cab is lifted, which makes sense. At least that's how it seemed on the dark and stormy night I attempted its removal.
And as long as the contacts are rated to 24 volts.. NOS is always way better.It's a Bosch part, as I recall. And older NOS may well be better than recent production. Then again, maybe not.
I tried to give you three "Thanks", but the system wouldn't let me.Remove the 8 bolts that hold down that small plate. Remove charge valve button then remove 2 bolts that hold down trailer charge valve and move it aside by lifting plate enough to gain access. Easy peasey.... kind of.
Hmm. Wouldn't a 12 Volt rated switch be better, being that it'd only have to deal with half the amperage when used for 24 Volts?And as long as the contacts are rated to 24 volts.. NOS is always way better.
The European websites may be your best bet for that seat. Prices aren't too bad right now, with the strong dollar. I've recently found a few things over there which were either unobtainable or just super expensive from US sources. A lot more unimogs get parted out over there.I posted a few months back about looking for a passenger seat. Does anyone have one they are not using. I am also looking for a fuel cap for the FLU.
LOLHmm. Wouldn't a 12 Volt rated switch be better, being that it'd only have to deal with half the amperage when used for 24 Volts?
Yesterdays trip to Denver was well worth it. Came back with a very lightly used 12-inch bucket for cheap, and four Unimog wheels also bought for a fair price.View attachment 670103
.
It was less than half of what a new aftermarket bucket would've cost, and less than most of the beat up used ones I've seen advertised. Yeah, that was a good score.Nice score on the bucket (and good teeth, too)!
Are you going to hard-face it, or leave it as-is?
Do you mean a FLU; that you recently purchased a FLU?new purchase
Check your safety switch on the clutch.. Start it up and let the air build up then shut it off. Turn on your ignition (battery switch too) but don't start it. Move the shifter plunger up and down and listen for the air cylinder, you should hear a little clunk. The clutch switch is also used to trigger a solenoid valve which then provides air to the hi/lo slave valve. There are two circuits on the clutch switch, wire #214/215 is for the start and wire #23a is the solenoid valve circuit.Before I go crazy digging all over my SEE I though to ask the group if they have been down this road.
I have had everything working great on my SEE. The air system is perhaps too good as it goes to 150PSI if I am not careful to release some pressure with the hand trailer brake or emergency button. At any rate by air overdrive or doubler stopped working. I hear the air sound when I push or pull the switch but no action? Any words of wisdom before I spend all day digging around?