Another Ahab
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There's nothing like OTJ (On-The-Job training) for building those operator skills!
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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group
- Thread starter Migginsbros
- Start date
anthkey
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So I Installed new fans on the hydraulic cooler...419 SEE
anyone know what temp the fluid needs to reach , for the fans to kick on...
got to 107 deg... then the high rev kicked down on it's own????
anyone know what temp the fluid needs to reach , for the fans to kick on...
got to 107 deg... then the high rev kicked down on it's own????
peakbagger
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Was the remote high rev switch to the right of the backhoe seat switched to high ?. When the engine went from high rev to low rev did the fuse blow? I cant help you on exactly what temp the switch turns on. Its just a snap disk. The circuit is pretty simple, might be easier to jump the terminals in the terminal block to simulate the snap switch closing. If fuse is blowing you may have the terminal block wired wrong or one of the new fans could be bad.
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Yep, 107 is probably about right. warm to the touch, but not hot. Sure sounds like what peakbagger describes; temp came up, switch closed, fan(s) or wiring is unhappy, fuse blows and drops the idle to normal.
I guess you didn't try the fans with external power first?
I guess you didn't try the fans with external power first?
anthkey
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Yes the switch was on HI,, it jumped up the rev on it's own... and dropped rev on it's own... fuse not blown..? I'll try direct wire tonight.... rewired the same way it was hooked up, from old fans... unless they were wired wrong...?
been through the TM's.. didn't find anything on fan wiring...?
anthkey
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NOPE... mother of all evils... ASSUMED... the fans are good... brand new from EI.... maybe fluid not hot , to trigger on?..?
peakbagger
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I don't have my manuals handy but the fans are in the same electrical diagnosis section as the starter relay. Note that one of the Army "cartoons" comments that the remote high low switch and the remote loader switch are prone to corrosion, the fix is to replace them. It doesn't make sense that the remote throttle is being impacted by the fans. It shares a fuse but that's about it unless its the dreaded bad/no ground where a ground is missing on one circuit and another circuit is trying to find a way to ground. Do note that the position of the hand throttle in the cab impacts the remote throttle switch. It has to be in the fast position for the remote throttle cylinder to work.
By the way, the throttle linkage is quite complex and needs lubrication at multiple points especially where the rod goes across the back of the block. If you haven't lubed all the links and pivots its a good time to do so
By the way, the throttle linkage is quite complex and needs lubrication at multiple points especially where the rod goes across the back of the block. If you haven't lubed all the links and pivots its a good time to do so
patrol578
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It's kind of like the First Rule of Fight Club.
patrol578
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So Flu Farm, did you ever chase down that fuel line air leak issue one of your trucks was having? Mine may be coming down with the same bug. I'm waiting for new fuel filters to be delivered before I start troubleshooting.
patrol578
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My guess is that arrow should be pointing the other way.
$#&@%!!!
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You'd have to run the hydraulics for quite a while before the fans get energized. At least mine works that way.
I'd treat the idle and fans as separate problems if I were you. And would begin with putting power to the fans at the thermal switch on the cooler. Either they will run, nothing happens, or you'll have sparks.
anthkey
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I don't have my manuals handy but the fans are in the same electrical diagnosis section as the starter relay. Note that one of the Army "cartoons" comments that the remote high low switch and the remote loader switch are prone to corrosion, the fix is to replace them. It doesn't make sense that the remote throttle is being impacted by the fans. It shares a fuse but that's about it unless its the dreaded bad/no ground where a ground is missing on one circuit and another circuit is trying to find a way to ground. Do note that the position of the hand throttle in the cab impacts the remote throttle switch. It has to be in the fast position for the remote throttle cylinder to work.
By the way, the throttle linkage is quite complex and needs lubrication at multiple points especially where the rod goes across the back of the block. If you haven't lubed all the links and pivots its a good time to do so[/QUOTE
crap... I just lowered the cab last night and secured it...
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Yeah, that strainer may not be as effective as it could be. But if it's clean inside, I don't think it could make the engine run crappy, either way.
What I find interesting is that you have the barbs on both ends. On mine there's a threaded fitting on the inlet side, which is quite helpful when trouble shooting, allowing me to insert an electric pump, isolate the before and after, etc.
The only 2-barbed strainer I've seen, other than yours, was one on eBay, NOS from Malta.
Anyway, it looks like I have eliminated the air leaks on mine, and as I recall, fuel now makes it to the strainer just fine. But not to the pump.
Considering how the inside of the tank looked, there may well be something evil in the line between the strainer and the pump. Easy enough to blow out, if that's the case.
I really do need to get back to that issue somewhat soon. Digging season is approaching fast.
Also found three pin holes in one of the widened wheels that needs to be welded up. Never a dull moment.
peakbagger
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I don't have my manuals handy but the fans are in the same electrical diagnosis section as the starter relay. Note that one of the Army "cartoons" comments that the remote high low switch and the remote loader switch are prone to corrosion, the fix is to replace them. It doesn't make sense that the remote throttle is being impacted by the fans. It shares a fuse but that's about it unless its the dreaded bad/no ground where a ground is missing on one circuit and another circuit is trying to find a way to ground. Do note that the position of the hand throttle in the cab impacts the remote throttle switch. It has to be in the fast position for the remote throttle cylinder to work.
With the engine cover removed you can get at all the points with spray lithium with a spray wand. It would be lot easier to lift the cab
By the way, the throttle linkage is quite complex and needs lubrication at multiple points especially where the rod goes across the back of the block. If you haven't lubed all the links and pivots its a good time to do so[/QUOTE
crap... I just lowered the cab last night and secured it...
anthkey
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checked that last night with a volt meter... has power...
tried cross jumping with a screwdriver ...nothing happened.. no fan.. no sparks..nothing..
are they both thermal switches... one at the top and one at the bottom???
I'll hit the fans with direct power... tonight.
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Alright, that narrows it down a bit. I'd use the handy dandy Ohm meter to find out what's happening between the switch and fans.
It's been a while since I had that cover off, but I only remember one switch. If that's what you mean.
Migginsbros
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To you FLU 419 enthusiast we were very busy to campaign our MV of the month, FLU´s best mate 406.145 aircraft tug.
They go very well together and help each other out. Vote for your Unimog family. Give your vote to Migginsbros aircraft tug built 1975,
350cui, 85Hp brake disc, torque converter, 6speed forward and 2 rear. Have a look on tilting that crewcap.
They go very well together and help each other out. Vote for your Unimog family. Give your vote to Migginsbros aircraft tug built 1975,
350cui, 85Hp brake disc, torque converter, 6speed forward and 2 rear. Have a look on tilting that crewcap.
Another Ahab
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You sure are working that MV-of-the-Month campaign HARD, Migginsbros.
Nobody can say that you're not trying!!
Good luck, Brother.
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anthkey
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found in TM5-2420-224-20-2 pg.4-147 there are 2 switches, I believe 1 might be for the front system , and 2nd for the back system...
I dont think I got the fluid hot enough to kick the switch...130*-150*... but will still check with meter...
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Speaking of tugs, I'm trying to learn more about those as I was recently told that the 406 tugs have the same hydrostatic drive setup as the HME. Would you happen to know if that is indeed the case? And if so, how does it work?