Another Ahab
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There's nothing like OTJ (On-The-Job training) for building those operator skills!
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There's nothing like OTJ (On-The-Job training) for building those operator skills!
Yes the switch was on HI,, it jumped up the rev on it's own... and dropped rev on it's own... fuse not blown..? I'll try direct wire tonight.... rewired the same way it was hooked up, from old fans... unless they were wired wrong...?Was the remote high rev switch to the right of the backhoe seat switched to high ?. When the engine went from high rev to low rev did the fuse blow? I cant help you on exactly what temp the switch turns on. Its just a snap disk. The circuit is pretty simple, might be easier to jump the terminals in the terminal block to simulate the snap switch closing. If fuse is blowing you may have the terminal block wired wrong or one of the new fans could be bad.
NOPE... mother of all evils... ASSUMED... the fans are good... brand new from EI.... maybe fluid not hot , to trigger on?..?Yep, 107 is probably about right. warm to the touch, but not hot. Sure sounds like what peakbagger describes; temp came up, switch closed, fan(s) or wiring is unhappy, fuse blows and drops the idle to normal.
I guess you didn't try the fans with external power first?
It's kind of like the First Rule of Fight Club.I do not wish to offend anyone as I am an admin for a very large forum myself, I should have known better. This is forum is running on phpBB or vBulletin or something similar is it not? Where is the option to delete my own post? I can't find it so please move the topic to the Classifieds thread. Or just delete it. My apologies again.
You'd have to run the hydraulics for quite a while before the fans get energized. At least mine works that way.NOPE... mother of all evils... ASSUMED... the fans are good... brand new from EI.... maybe fluid not hot , to trigger on?..?
I don't have my manuals handy but the fans are in the same electrical diagnosis section as the starter relay. Note that one of the Army "cartoons" comments that the remote high low switch and the remote loader switch are prone to corrosion, the fix is to replace them. It doesn't make sense that the remote throttle is being impacted by the fans. It shares a fuse but that's about it unless its the dreaded bad/no ground where a ground is missing on one circuit and another circuit is trying to find a way to ground. Do note that the position of the hand throttle in the cab impacts the remote throttle switch. It has to be in the fast position for the remote throttle cylinder to work.
By the way, the throttle linkage is quite complex and needs lubrication at multiple points especially where the rod goes across the back of the block. If you haven't lubed all the links and pivots its a good time to do so[/QUOTE
crap... I just lowered the cab last night and secured it...
Yeah, that strainer may not be as effective as it could be. But if it's clean inside, I don't think it could make the engine run crappy, either way.
I don't have my manuals handy but the fans are in the same electrical diagnosis section as the starter relay. Note that one of the Army "cartoons" comments that the remote high low switch and the remote loader switch are prone to corrosion, the fix is to replace them. It doesn't make sense that the remote throttle is being impacted by the fans. It shares a fuse but that's about it unless its the dreaded bad/no ground where a ground is missing on one circuit and another circuit is trying to find a way to ground. Do note that the position of the hand throttle in the cab impacts the remote throttle switch. It has to be in the fast position for the remote throttle cylinder to work.
With the engine cover removed you can get at all the points with spray lithium with a spray wand. It would be lot easier to lift the cab
By the way, the throttle linkage is quite complex and needs lubrication at multiple points especially where the rod goes across the back of the block. If you haven't lubed all the links and pivots its a good time to do so[/QUOTE
crap... I just lowered the cab last night and secured it...
checked that last night with a volt meter... has power...You'd have to run the hydraulics for quite a while before the fans get energized. At least mine works that way.
I'd treat the idle and fans as separate problems if I were you. And would begin with putting power to the fans at the thermal switch on the cooler. Either they will run, nothing happens, or you'll have sparks.
Alright, that narrows it down a bit. I'd use the handy dandy Ohm meter to find out what's happening between the switch and fans.checked that last night with a volt meter... has power...
tried cross jumping with a screwdriver ...nothing happened.. no fan.. no sparks..nothing..
are they both thermal switches... one at the top and one at the bottom???
I'll hit the fans with direct power... tonight.
You sure are working that MV-of-the-Month campaign HARD, Migginsbros.To you FLU 419 enthusiast we were very busy to campaign our MV of the month, FLU´s best mate 406.145 aircraft tug.
They go very well together and help each other out. Vote for your Unimog family. Give your vote to Migginsbros aircraft tug built 1975,
350cui, 85Hp brake disc, torque converter, 6speed forward and 2 rear. Have a look on tilting that crewcap.
View attachment 677591
found in TM5-2420-224-20-2 pg.4-147 there are 2 switches, I believe 1 might be for the front system , and 2nd for the back system...Alright, that narrows it down a bit. I'd use the handy dandy Ohm meter to find out what's happening between the switch and fans.
It's been a while since I had that cover off, but I only remember one switch. If that's what you mean.
Speaking of tugs, I'm trying to learn more about those as I was recently told that the 406 tugs have the same hydrostatic drive setup as the HME. Would you happen to know if that is indeed the case? And if so, how does it work?Give your vote to Migginsbros aircraft tug built 1975