FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Another Ahab]

I searched and searched, and yes, there is one. Probably fairly useless without a tire chain, though. Could not find one in the correct size.

 

[patrol578]

I searched and searched, and yes, there is one. Probably fairly useless without a tire chain, though. Could not find one in the correct size.

https://www.slipnottraction.com/ Bicycle tire chains. Their lawyers don't like it when they sell to unicyclists though.

 

[patrol578]

Then you'd really like it if using some real lubrication.

I was going to warn you anthkey...don't get him started on that subject....

 

[Another Ahab]

Then you'd really like it if using some real lubrication.

I was going to warn you anthkey...don't get him started on that subject....

Oh, my word.

Gracious!

Do you think it's best if we ask all the children now to please leave the room?!

 

[General Hood]

An FYI on the throttle linkage, there was a good number of SEEs out of Texarkana that had the linkage froze up when they were pulled out of the weeds to be put up for auction. The throttles were manually forced in attempt to free them up, resulting with units with bent and distorted linkage. Unfortunately, one of my SEEs was subject to that abuse. I used spray lubricant and let it absorb about 15 minutes and the linkage freed up. Bending all the components back to their original shape was a little more aggravating and time consuming. I would have donated a case of WD40 to the GP Texarkana folks if it would have prevented the undesirable outcome

 

[The FLU farm]

https://www.slipnottraction.com/ Bicycle tire chains. Their lawyers don't like it when they sell to unicyclists though.

Doh! I only looked for unicycle chains, not for bicycles.
Since the slipnottraction ones are only sold in pairs, I suppose General Hood and I could split a set.

 

[Another Ahab]

Doh! I only looked for unicycle chains, not for bicycles.
Since the slipnottraction ones are only sold in pairs, I suppose General Hood and I could split a set.

 

[The FLU farm]

I was going to warn you anthkey...don't get him started on that subject....

Yeah, really. While I understand that they have released new kinds that may actually work, I haven't tried those yet.
Until then, WD-40 is probably best used in places like...um, Texarkana. I don't think it makes corrosion worse.

 

[patrol578]

Replaced this, because it was obvious, and the fuel filters, which didn't look all that bad. New washers in place, all bolts tight. Will not bleed, so I'm guessing that fuel is not even flowing freely to the primer pump. The seive will be my next check.

 

[The FLU farm]

Will not bleed, so I'm guessing that fuel is not even flowing freely to the primer pump.

Did you try blowing compressed air backwards, from the strainer into the tank? You should get bubbles audible from the tank.
Or, as a couple of us has managed to do, did you forget to open the valve?

 

[patrol578]

I had to close up for the day. Will hopefully get to the strainer (not sieve, wrong word) tomorrow. I am wondering whether I will be able to get the fuel lines on/off those barbs, since I don't have the one-sided fitting, like most. The valve is stuck open.

 

[The FLU farm]

Two ways I can think of, and have used; either cut the hose a ways from the barb and leave room for splicing it with a rubber hose.
Or cut the hose off the barb (carefully) and then reapply it. That's if there's enough slack in it to lose an inch or two, and if you can beg, steal, or borrow a hair dryer.

 

[General Hood]

I had to close up for the day. Will hopefully get to the strainer (not sieve, wrong word) tomorrow. I am wondering whether I will be able to get the fuel lines on/off those barbs, since I don't have the one-sided fitting, like most. The valve is stuck open.

Good luck, and let us know what you find. My fuel system was so clogged I had to do some heavy duty cleaning from fuel tank up past the double filters. It looked like the gov tried running my SEE off some radioactive waste in the past

 

[The FLU farm]

Uh, oh. I never thought to check the strange contents of my tank for radioactivity. And that stuff has been sitting in a not well sealed bucket ever since I drained the tank.
I better go out after dark and see if it glows.

 

[patrol578]

Well I was out there in the dark, and nothing glows, so I guess that's a positive. The strainer was clean, and a steady dribble of fuel flowed out as long as the cup was off.

I am pretty sure it was fuel from the tank as it was flowing too quickly to be the downstream parts draining out.

I think blowing the lines out with compressed air will come next.

 

[patrol578]

After that, I think I may try a small tank gravity feeding the filters directly.

 

[peakbagger]

After that, I think I may try a small tank gravity feeding the filters directly.

If you go back in this thread long enough you will come up with my diagnostic method which is outboard motor tank with a squeeze bulb on the fuel line. I sat mine on the passenger seat and used that to diagnose the system. Do keep in mind that fuel will still be returned to the main tank but you can run for hours off the boat tank. I could run the truck off of gravity and the squeeze bulb but I don't think I ever bypassed the fuel pump.

The standard recommendation from Mercedes pros of the era is cut the plastic hose immediately downstream of the end of the barb so you leave a short length of plastic hose covering the barb threads. This adds up to standard hose size (I think its 3/8". That and they recommend using full wrap hose clamps. I did this between the discharge of the strainer and the inlet to the fuel pump and replaced the plastic in it entirety. I think I had several leaks but in the end I am pretty sure it was the hose that runs from the sending unit on top of the tank to the tubing connected to the inlet of the strainer. On many SEEs the fuel tank is mounted so tight to the frame that getting at these short lengths of hose means loosening the tank strap bolts. The threads on these straps are inevitably painted over and I would suggest hitting it with paint remover first then hitting the nuts with the penetrant of you choice.

 

[patrol578]

Thanks peakbagger, I do recall your posts on the topic. I may be giving my local marine shops a call tomorrow.

 

[The FLU farm]

I may be giving my local marine shops a call tomorrow.

I hate boats, so I'm stubbornly ignoring peakbagger's advice (in this case). But I'm not too proud to use an electric fuel pump instead.

 

[wallybob]

I just went through this with my new to me SEE my tank didn't have a cap and got contamintaed with water. I took the tank off and had local radiator shop flush it out. I replaced all the plastic fuel lines with new rubber lines. You can remove the line right at the barb and the rubber lines fit perfect

The Feed line are 5/16 fuel line

https://www.mcmaster.com/#54605k33/=17eg2wp

Return line is 1/4 inch

https://www.mcmaster.com/#54605k32/=17eg4s3

You will also need a Tee in the return line for the injector over flow

https://www.mcmaster.com/#44555k173/=17eg5q1

For the smaller line at the cylinder head you need a very small 3mm line. I found that return hose from a VW tdi fit great.

http://www.fixmyvw.com/diesel-rated-fuel-hose-3mm-for-all-vw-audi-tdi/

I have picked this up at my local dealer also.

I replaced the primer pump and filters from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CO92F2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9TAY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Until I got my tank back I just put the feed and return into a 5gal diesel can. The primer pump had no problem sucking the fuel out of the can but it does take a bit to get all the air out.