FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[rtrask]

Supplies List

Still no FLU, I talked to the shipper, and the army yard boss is not going available until next week. Either that or the shipper is feeding me bull, but it all amounts to it will get here next week.

So while I am waiting I have been gathering supplies. If one of you kind souls would look over my list and give me some feed back on what I have gotten so far or stuff I have missed for the initial run through, I would appreciate it.

item	FLU manual info	Discussion
5 Gal AW32 Hydraulic fluid	32 gallons (44 quarts front, 84 quarts rear)	I am only getting 5 gallons right now, I am assuming that can tide me over until I can shop around for that volume, and verify the major systems are functional / or economically fixable. If it is leaking like a sieve I may have to revisit this idea. I got Valvoline from NAPA. but I can get a 55 gallon drum of Costal for 290 + 95 dollars shipping
80W90 Gear Oil - 5 gal	a little less than 2.5 gallons	More than I need for FLU, but I have some differed maintenance
3 Gal 15W40 motor oil	max 11.6 / min 8.1 + 1 quart for filter	With the filter change it will be less than full, but close enough for government work.
44 oz. DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.	1 quart between the brake (.8 qt) and clutch (.2 qt)
1 V-Belt NBH 259350	12.5 x 900	For the power steering pump. NSN 3030-01-247-3224 -- NAPA says this one is 12 mm x 899 mm, FLU farm confirms fit
1 V-Belt NBH 259440	12.5 x 1125	For Hydraulic pump, NSN 3030-00-528-3968 -- Napa says this one is 12 mm x 1127 mm FLU farm confirms fit
1 V-Belt NBH 259570	12.5 x 1450	For Crank., Alt., W. Pump, NSN 3030-00-529-0354 -- Napa says this one 12 mm x 1457
Super Start Fleet & Heavy Duty - Battery 6TL battery x 2	length 10.5" Width 11.875" Height 9"	NSN 6140-01-431-1172 I got it at O'Riley, NAPA could not get it to me for 3 weeks.
1 case of lithium grease		It is kind of old (OK its ancient maybe older than the FLU), I inherited it from my dad, but it is not supposed to go bad.
[H-1366-X]Mann-Filter European Oil Filter Element	Part # 001 184 70 25	No NSN number in parts manual did a fair amount of searching based on Expedition and cross checking this seems to be correct.
1 x Air Filter - FLU 419 (C 18 436)		NSN 2940-01-174-9142 -- lists a lot of part numbers
2 x Fuel Filter (0000901151)	Part # NPN-026

In addition, I am going to order replacement hoses. The parts manual lists 3 preformed coolant hoses:
NSN 4720-01-225-1129 part # 406 987 5043 / 419 987 0043
NSN 4720-01-225-1130 part # 419 987 01 43
NSN 4720-01-241-4846 part # 419 987 02 43

Web Searches on those part numbers don't turn up any options. Both Euro Truck, and Expedition has them prices vary. I am concerned by Expedition, because the part number, and picture do not match diagram in the parts manual. Euro Truck does seem to match up, but no part numbers. All the other hoses in the cooling system are just cut to length with the correct diameter, so should be straight forward to replace. The hoses in the pictures supplied by GP look like they need to be replaced, but do not look like they are leaking. I don't think this needs to be a high priority replacement, but that could change after it gets here. For sure I will replace it before I put it under any kind of stress. If anybody has recommendations on hoses, it would be appreciated. As FLU farm pointed out the coolant in the storage tank went somewhere, but the GP report claims no leaks in the coolant system that could be a bad thing I just got to wait and see.

 

[The FLU farm]

Still no FLU, I talked to the shipper, and the army yard boss is not going available until next week. Either that or the shipper is feeding me bull, but it all amounts to it will get here next week.

I had to wait for about three months once before the GP rep was available for a pickup. But as long as it's really GP that's holding things up, they can't charge you storage fees.
You have a patient shipper, it sounds like.

Napa should be able to get you a drum of AW-32, and if you order online you might get 10% off. Although they seem to exclude a lot of useful stuff from that rebate.

 

[rtrask]

I had to wait for about three months once before the GP rep was available for a pickup. But as long as it's really GP that's holding things up, they can't charge you storage fees.
You have a patient shipper, it sounds like.

Napa should be able to get you a drum of AW-32, and if you order online you might get 10% off. Although they seem to exclude a lot of useful stuff from that rebate.

I priced NAPA $450 for a 55 gallon drum, with a 10% discount, that would be $405. Petroleum Service Company sells Coastal AW-32 Premium for 290, Bluesky Pureblu for 297, Sunoco for 310. They offer flat rate shipping for $95 for up to 2000 lbs. I only need 1 drum at most. But at 290 that's still $385 for 55 gallons. The price goes down if anyone in the area need 55 gallons. I don't know anything good or bad about those brands. They also have Phillips, Shell, Chevron, and Mobile at higher prices.

 

[Speedwoble]

Hey rtrask. I see you are planning on 2.5 gallons of gear oil. I take that to mean you plan to do transmission oil as well. They use different fluids. With brass synchro sin the trans, it requires a GL4 or lower lube while the portals require a gl5. There is a good discussion on benzworld as to the reasons, and an even better write-up on a corvair forum out there. Suffice it to say, you need to find a transmission lube safe for brass synchros.

 

[rtrask]

Hey rtrask. I see you are planning on 2.5 gallons of gear oil. I take that to mean you plan to do transmission oil as well. They use different fluids. With brass synchro sin the trans, it requires a GL4 or lower lube while the portals require a gl5. There is a good discussion on benzworld as to the reasons, and an even better write-up on a corvair forum out there. Suffice it to say, you need to find a transmission lube safe for brass synchros.

Thanks for catching that Speedwoble. I was just going by LO 3-2420-224-12 that shows the same GO-80/90 for the transmission, front and rear differentials and the front and rear axle hub drives. Is this the article you referred to?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...6FGRNGcLx3cL-U9Eg&sig2=cbwdgiKxWVngSVw-ylDsLw

 

[Speedwoble]

Thanks for catching that Speedwoble. I was just going by LO 3-2420-224-12 that shows the same GO-80/90 for the transmission, front and rear differentials and the front and rear axle hub drives. Is this the article you referred to?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...6FGRNGcLx3cL-U9Eg&sig2=cbwdgiKxWVngSVw-ylDsLw

Yes, that is the article.
The military made some compromises in order to minimize fluids stocked. Perhaps this is the reason the military was putting synchro in the trans yearly as Peakbagger's mechanic mentioned.

 

[peakbagger]

I cant add much to the fluid discussion that hasn't been said. Observations from a Unimog pro that I recently bought my 1300L from is that the two lubricants not to go cheap on is the transmission fluid and the portal axle lubricant. He recommends a synthetic that meets Mercedes specs and as far as he knew Red Line synthetic is the only US manufacturer that sells product that is Mercedes qualified. He was far less concerned with the engine oil, his feeling is just use a known brand.

I have bought stuff from Expeditions Imports and to date they have been spot on. They ended up with much of the government inventory. I would start a job ticket with them (via email) and tell them exactly what you need including the NSN and part number.

If you have a hood, you need a hood wrench. I think EI has them. Not much else works to open the latches. BTW EI has a complete filter set which includes a couple of odd ball items that you should plan to change. There are actually two air filters, an inner and outer but expect most folks are skipping the inner filter and expect with the low miles you probably can just blow out the existing outer filter. You will need a fuel bowl strainer gasket as its highly likely you will be going through the "fuel system game" and the strainer is ground zero in this game. Some of the strainers are damaged but you can wait on buying one if you want. I would buy the new Bosch priming pump as the original one is barely functional. I believe the EI starter kit has both the strainer gasket, possibly a strainer bowl and the new style primer pump.

With respect to the hydraulic cylinders, the best thing is do is run them as some of the leaks may seal up. I had couple of questionable ones but they sealed up. I have one that may need seals but for now I have a "diaper" made out of an oil pad (treated to soak up oil but not water) that is tie wrapped around the cylinder. Even this one seems to be sealing up with more use. I have had more than a few plugged and damaged grease zerks. I got most of them to pump but as I related recently I had one that required disassembly of the backhoe bucket. Speaking of grease points there is one on the transmission hidden away in non obvious location, I could only access it with the backhoe in the open position and reaching down behind the cab from the top. I would definitely go through every grease point on the unit when you get it and find every one. Also note overgreasing can do damage to sealed components. The only place is did overgrease was joints on the loader and backhoe that are open joints (no boots or bellows).

 

[snowtrac nome]

got a buddy with a see he needs a 24 volt starter any of you guys out there with a spare you want to turn into cash

 

[General Hood]

got a buddy with a see he needs a 24 volt starter any of you guys out there with a spare you want to turn into cash

Sending you a PM

 

[snowtrac nome]

many thanks for the quick response rick will get ahold of you to arrange shipping and payment once I have your contact info. now the fun starts not being able to tip up the cab to remove the starter. looks like an access plate by the drivers foot it might fit out through.

 

[Speedwoble]

many thanks for the quick response rick will get ahold of you to arrange shipping and payment once I have your contact info. now the fun starts not being able to tip up the cab to remove the starter. looks like an access plate by the drivers foot it might fit out through.

Putting in a New starter is your choice, but I got my starter rebuilt with a new solenoid and new gear for $70. Even though it was 24V, local starter repair shop had the parts on the shelf and finished it in 2 days.

I did it through that access panel and engine cover. Not too bad of a job, old one out and New one in in 30 minutes. I expected much worse. FWIW, mine had large nuts that were hard to access. If you go to a heavy equipment dealer(I know Case dealers have them), I got flanged nuts that used a smaller socket diameter to make it easier to install the starter.

 

[General Hood]

many thanks for the quick response rick will get ahold of you to arrange shipping and payment once I have your contact info. now the fun starts not being able to tip up the cab to remove the starter. looks like an access plate by the drivers foot it might fit out through.

NP, starter shipped out this morning

 

[Speedwoble]

If you have a hood, you need a hood wrench. I think EI has them. Not much else works to open the latches. BTW EI has a complete filter set which includes a couple of odd ball items that you should plan to change. There are actually two air filters, an inner and outer but expect most folks are skipping the inner filter and expect with the low miles you probably can just blow out the existing outer filter. You will need a fuel bowl strainer gasket as its highly likely you will be going through the "fuel system game" and the strainer is ground zero in this game. Some of the strainers are damaged but you can wait on buying one if you want. I would buy the new Bosch priming pump as the original one is barely functional. I believe the EI starter kit has both the strainer gasket, possibly a strainer bowl and the new style primer pump.

Good advice as always.
I have been able to get the hood open with a 1/4" ratchet and extension, but it is loose and causes excessive force on the pot-metal, which will cause them to crack! The Hood wrench also works for the battery boxes and I highly recommend it. I drilled a hole through it and added a tiny steel cable so I have a way to hang it.

My 3 mogs have all had the "new style" primer pump. I have yet to see the "old style" where the plunger threads in.

 

[911joeblow]

Good advice as always.
The Hood wrench also works for the battery boxes and I highly recommend it. I drilled a hole through it and added a tiny steel cable so I have a way to hang it..

FYI there is a plastic clip in the drivers door pocket to hold the wrench...

 

[peakbagger]

I have one of the old style pumps I will give you a real good deal on . They apparently can be rebuilt (and its a good thing as they need apparently need it frequently). The 406 folks got to live with them for years. I think it was a very popular upgrade on the SEEs as without one the trucks not moving. Its like the old Coleman Stove pumps.

 

[General Hood]

I have one of the old style pumps I will give you a real good deal on . They apparently can be rebuilt (and its a good thing as they need apparently need it frequently). The 406 folks got to live with them for years. I think it was a very popular upgrade on the SEEs as without one the trucks not moving. Its like the old Coleman Stove pumps.

I have one as well, keeping it as a garage ornament to remind me what a POS it is compared to the new ones. Your comparison to the old Colemans is a good analogy

 

[peakbagger]

The thing is those darn coleman pumps seem to run forever if you keep the pump leather oiled every decade or so. As long as the generator tube isn't ruined, usually by pump gas, I can almost always get a garage sale coleman to work unless someone tried to burn motor oil or kerosene (seen one or two over the years).

The guy I bought my 1300 from has rebuild kits consisting of a couple of O rings for the old style but unless someone is way to anal about authenticity, no need to rebuild it as I think the new style Bosch pumps were used during later rebuilds and may have been supplied as repair parts to the military as they seem to be quite prevalent among the SEEs auctioned off.

 

[The FLU farm]

I have one of the old style pumps I will give you a real good deal on .

I might take you up on that. I'm still running a couple of the old style pumps, which seem to work just fine. Especially when you don't need to use them.

 

[patrol578]

many thanks for the quick response rick will get ahold of you to arrange shipping and payment once I have your contact info. now the fun starts not being able to tip up the cab to remove the starter. looks like an access plate by the drivers foot it might fit out through.

Like Speedwoble said, it's not a bad job. No need to tip the cab, just don't try to pull the starter out up past the exhaust like I tried. In my defense, it was already dark out and I didn't see the access panel initially. Easy as pie with that panel off. I did need to reach up from under the truck to access at least one of those nuts, though.

 

[snowtrac nome]

well I have a month before the sun goes down again, and I saw the access plate. the deal we got on the starter was well worth it. to have it rebuilt would require shipping to anchorage and likely waiting for parts. the owner will take the old one back to Colorado with him get it rebuilt for a spare this winter. right now he has 4 months to get as much work out of the machine as he can.