• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
My SEE recapped at rrad 9/04, serial # 451013, 82 miles, 4.5 hours. I his the newest SEE anywhere, or is this typical?
Welcome, Chief.
I would say that your SEE is definitely on the low side when it comes to miles and hours since the recap. They must've parked it in the back almost instantly.
My HMMH had 80 something miles on it, I think, and that's the lowest I've seen in person.
As far as being the newest goes, my newest SEE was recapped on 6/06, serial number 451485, so it's younger. But it has over 4,000 miles on it.
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
I wont attempt to guess how new it is. I have a zero miles SEE speedometer in a box in my basement and I suspect the speedos were replaced as part of the recon a well as the hour meters (but its pure speculation on my part). EI has the speedos for 50 bucks.

The SEE folks on this thread don't talk very often about the EPC (Electronic Part Catalog) which has a VIN number decoder built into it. Normal Unimog owners do, as everyone built it pretty well built to custom order so figuring out which exact part is needed is a PITA. Unfortunately the Mercedes USA version does not have Unimogs in it but the European versions do. If you have the VIN number (not the serial number in the cab) but the one stamped in the passengers frame rail ahead of the front wheel, someone with access to the European EPC should be able to look up the VIN and get a build sheet on the entire vehicle. The VIN starts with WDB and its a source of confusion to motor vehicle clerks and VIN number systems as its non compliant with federal law. The print out has a slot for build date (unfortunately the one for my 1300 is blank) and I haven't looked up mine for my SEE (its an oldtimer that had 40 hours and 365 miles with no recap).

I have also seen references that the Unimog Museum in Gaggenau Germany http://www.unimog-museum.com/ has volunteers that will look up the original manufacturing record and can supply the date of manufacture.

If you do get a build sheet you can go to the Rocky Mountain Moggers site and translate all the special codes http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/unimogoptioncodes.html.
 

Speedwoble

Well-known member
606
301
63
Location
New Holland, PA
My SEE recapped at rrad 9/04, serial # 451013, 82 miles, 4.5 hours. I his the newest SEE anywhere, or is this typical?
Ah grasshopper, you have 45 hours. The engine hourmeter is not in decimals. Welcome to the club.
My parts mog had 31 hours after an 03 recap. Shame the trans was toast.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Ah grasshopper, you have 45 hours. The engine hourmeter is not in decimals. Welcome to the club.
My parts mog had 31 hours after an 03 recap. Shame the trans was toast.
Good catch, Speedwoble. I somehow overlooked that simple fact, despite going strictly by engine hours for maintenance.
Reading those dang meters can be a real pain, but it's what counts. I have one dysfunctional speedometer, but it took me about a year to notice that the mileage never went up.

Speaking of noticing, looked at the HMMH which now has 110 miles and 24 hours on it. It arrived with 90 miles and 5 hours.
There's no tag or decal indicating a recap, so it was really used sparingly. Or the hour meter was changed for whatever reason.
 
Last edited:

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
So I have been working my SEE hard for two strait weeks putting in my ranch fencing. I have filled her up 4 times. She has dug 300+ post holes, leveled 2-3 acres of land, Built a 700ft rock berm to stop river erosion (while in the river which has a 3' drop in and clime out access and is 3' deep!), loaded and dumped 50K pounds of debris and old concrete, powered a hydraulic cut off saw, a chainsaw, and air tools, and provided holding and lifting of all sorts of devices and items.

The ONLY thing she even slightly whimpered about was the short runs between loading debris and dumping in a waste bin because the use of the brakes so often kept dropping system pressure below 90 psi or when using the full locker 4X4 she also had a hard time keeping up with the air demand. Other than that everything is 100%! I am even looking at getting new excavator teeth because I have been digging in some nasty rocks and wore them out!

I love this machine! I am going to add AirCon, a 24V to 110V Inverter, long air hose reel and an additional air tank for air tools. I will also be adding a winch in front and a hoist in back.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Glad to hear it's working well! I've been meaning to add a front winch, too, although I'd rather have it in the rear. Just haven't figured out an intelligent way to mount it there.
And when not chasing fuel issues (spilling a lot), it's impressive how much these machines can do on a tank.
You must have a leak somewhere, or using 4WD and locked shouldn't affect the pressure. But the additional air tank will help, no matter what.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
18,004
4,565
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
So I have been working my SEE hard for two strait weeks putting in my ranch fencing. I have filled her up 4 times. She has dug 300+ post holes, leveled 2-3 acres of land, Built a 700ft rock berm to stop river erosion (while in the river which has a 3' drop in and clime out access and is 3' deep!), loaded and dumped 50K pounds of debris and old concrete, powered a hydraulic cut off saw, a chainsaw, and air tools, and provided holding and lifting of all sorts of devices and items.
Sounds like you sure got YOUR money's worth from that SEE. :beer:
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
Great hear that you are putting it to work, I think a lot of the issues folks have is that these rigs were made to work and letting them sit it not good for them. Even the military pushes that the rigs need exercise.

I expect your air system issue may be related to the air purge system in place so that when the unit is in 4WD that the axles are pressurized so that when they go underwater water doesn't get into the bearings and gearing. I haven't spent the time tracing this system out but believe there is regulator that drops the air pressure down quite low. The regulator could be set at too high a pressure or hose may be disconnected somewhere.

So I have been working my SEE hard for two strait weeks putting in my ranch fencing. I have filled her up 4 times. She has dug 300+ post holes, leveled 2-3 acres of land, Built a 700ft rock berm to stop river erosion (while in the river which has a 3' drop in and clime out access and is 3' deep!), loaded and dumped 50K pounds of debris and old concrete, powered a hydraulic cut off saw, a chainsaw, and air tools, and provided holding and lifting of all sorts of devices and items.

The ONLY thing she even slightly whimpered about was the short runs between loading debris and dumping in a waste bin because the use of the brakes so often kept dropping system pressure below 90 psi or when using the full locker 4X4 she also had a hard time keeping up with the air demand. Other than that everything is 100%! I am even looking at getting new excavator teeth because I have been digging in some nasty rocks and wore them out!

I love this machine! I am going to add AirCon, a 24V to 110V Inverter, long air hose reel and an additional air tank for air tools. I will also be adding a winch in front and a hoist in back.
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
Great hear that you are putting it to work, I think a lot of the issues folks have is that these rigs were made to work and letting them sit it not good for them. Even the military pushes that the rigs need exercise.

I expect your air system issue may be related to the air purge system in place so that when the unit is in 4WD that the axles are pressurized so that when they go underwater water doesn't get into the bearings and gearing. I haven't spent the time tracing this system out but believe there is regulator that drops the air pressure down quite low. The regulator could be set at too high a pressure or hose may be disconnected somewhere.
You are probably right. When I first got her I had to go through the air system and I ended up messing with the smaller regulators on the drivers side over the tanks. I never really figured out what I was doing with those and left them. I might need to turn them down from where I left them. Any insights on which one does what? She is awfully muddy right now and a quick turn of a regulator I can do but tracing air lines, not so much until my job is done.

Thanks in advance!
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
Glad to hear it's working well! I've been meaning to add a front winch, too, although I'd rather have it in the rear. Just haven't figured out an intelligent way to mount it there.
My SEE was missing the under engine protection plate (skid plate) so I figured I would make a box there with the winch in it. It will be hydraulic by the way. The rear hoist/winch will be mounted where the spare fuel/hydraulic can mount is and will have a roller off to the passenger side for winching and use another par of rollers on the boom elbows for craning. I am still working out the engineering but I think I can get it to work.

The inverter will be mounted in the back of the tall cabinet and will have weather proof outlets on both sides of the truck.

My bush air system (until it is hard mounted I am running air off the glands for the brakes) is going to be used shortly to power my air nailer/stapler to hang no climb wire fencing onto the rail fencing all around the acreage. That will be a rear test for the air....
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
Fortunately I haven't gone that far on mine so you are on your own. I do wish they would show system diagrams in the manuals but expect you need to use the parts break down diagram and figure out what regulator supplied the purge air. Unfortunately I think the one you need to deal with may require the cab to be tilted. Mine initially bled a lot of air but expect part of that was the trailer brakes glad hands leaking. I think its sealed itself up with use as it seems to hold air pressure in 4WD far better then when I first started playing with it.

You are probably right. When I first got her I had to go through the air system and I ended up messing with the smaller regulators on the drivers side over the tanks. I never really figured out what I was doing with those and left them. I might need to turn them down from where I left them. Any insights on which one does what? She is awfully muddy right now and a quick turn of a regulator I can do but tracing air lines, not so much until my job is done.

Thanks in advance!
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Put my SEE to work a couple days ago pushing some trees over with the backhoe. Late in the day, one of the cylinders blew out part of the seal and a nice spray of hydraulic fluid
IMG_20170607_123620327_HDR.jpg
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
63
Location
northern nh
Bummer on the seal. I think I have posted this firm previously http://www.foxkits.com/. They sell all the Case seals. I bought a complete set but haven't used any yet as my leaky cylinder seems to be sealing better.


Put my SEE to work a couple days ago pushing some trees over with the backhoe. Late in the day, one of the cylinders blew out part of the seal and a nice spray of hydraulic fluid
View attachment 684135
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
Fortunately I haven't gone that far on mine so you are on your own. I do wish they would show system diagrams in the manuals but expect you need to use the parts break down diagram and figure out what regulator supplied the purge air. Unfortunately I think the one you need to deal with may require the cab to be tilted. Mine initially bled a lot of air but expect part of that was the trailer brakes glad hands leaking. I think its sealed itself up with use as it seems to hold air pressure in 4WD far better then when I first started playing with it.
When I am not heavily using the air, the purge valve lets off a nice blast every so often so I think it is working. I am wondering if one of those smaller valves is over pressurizing and losing a lot of air because of it.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
When I am not heavily using the air, the purge valve lets off a nice blast every so often so I think it is working. I am wondering if one of those smaller valves is over pressurizing and losing a lot of air because of it.
With the system pressurized, 4WD and lockers engaged, can you hear any leaks? With the engine off, of course.
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
I will dig deeper after this big job is done. I have not really spent too much time since the initial overhaul looking at the air system. It is on the 'list' ;).
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks