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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

The FLU farm

Well-known member
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
This could very well turn out to be Formerly Parts SEE # 2.
General Hood, I'm afraid you might be right. Maybe i should just call them SEE I, II, and III? If nothing else, it'll keep me from buying several more as I can only count to 10 using Roman numerals.

Hopefully Ron and alpine44 got theirs delivered, too. Misery loves company, right?
 

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
General Hood, I'm afraid you might be right. Maybe i should just call them SEE I, II, and III? If nothing else, it'll keep me from buying several more as I can only count to 10 using Roman numerals.
Hopefully Ron and alpine44 got theirs delivered, too. Misery loves company, right?
The SEE that is "allegedly" mine is sitting on a trailer some where between here and Hook TX. The diver is treating it as a partial load.It should get here Tuesday or Wednesday depending on when he gets a full load. I "won" the auction on May 17th, so it is trying even my patience at this point. I spoke to the driver and he said that they drove it on the trailer. He said that he will bring ramps. I will not have much dedicated SEE time until the first of July, but should be able to get the fluids changed, and begin the process of going through the different systems. I will keep y'all posted.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
The diver is treating it as a partial load.It should get here Tuesday or Wednesday depending on when he gets a full load.
I'll keep an eye out for it, Ron. Even if the driver doesn't get lost, your SEE should pass relatively close to here.
And if I do happen to see it, I'll send you a picture...which will get to you faster.

Oh, and happy one month SEE ownership anniversary tomorrow, Ron! Time flies whether you're having fun or not, I've noticed.
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
I'll keep an eye out for it, Ron. Even if the driver doesn't get lost, your SEE should pass relatively close to here.
And if I do happen to see it, I'll send you a picture...which will get to you faster.

Oh, and happy one month SEE ownership anniversary tomorrow, Ron! Time flies whether you're having fun or not, I've noticed.
It's off the Hooks lot, which is a giant step in the right direction
 

alpine44

Member
403
17
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
FINALLY, there is a FLU419 sitting in my driveway!

Yesterday, Wes showed up with his 5 ton rig early in the morning to drop off the FLU419 I got from GP. (The payment for the machine in Atlanta that could not be transported was refunded)
20170615_064855.jpg


My neighbor helped me with his rollback truck to get the FLU419 up the hill close to my toolshed.
20170615_092513.jpg
The machine was advertised as having the radiator missing, pulleys and fan taken off, and the passenger door unhinged. The GP photos also showed the front brake fluid supply line disconnected from the brake master cylinder which made me budget for a new master cylinder.

After pickup, Wes verified that the engine turns over. Hopefully, a new radiator, new belts, and a few bolts is all the engine needs.

Today, I drained the tank (some rust flakes in there but no major mess), removed and disassembled the brake master (unfortunately shot due to water intrusion), removed and disassembled the clutch master (looks serviceable), cleaned the interior (seats, headliner, and dash are in great condition), and put the tools (chainsaw, ripper tooth, jackhammer, and jack) in the freshly cleaned boxes.

The cab electrics work as intended and I did not find any damage on the wiring. Freed up the throttle linkage and loosened the loader bolts in preparation for loader removal. Also took the rear axle thrust arms off that were bent by the GP forklift jockey. Did not bother trying to fire the engine up since I am waiting for new filters and plan to replace the plastic lines with fuel hose.

Three of the four door hinge pins are broken. I am planning to slit the bracket welded to the body to get the stub out, insert a new pin and weld the radial slit shut. The shrinkage of the weld should hold the pin tightly in the body mounted bracket and I should still be able to take the door out of the hinge with the slip fit in the door-mounted bracket. What is a good replacement material for the hinge pin? Grade 8 bolt or annealed tool steel rod?

I have to head to Maryland for a few weeks where I can at least fabricate the jack for the loader and straighten the thrust arms in a press (my shop has not been moved to NC yet). Also will pick up some spare parts from a fellow SS member. More progress hopefully in about a month or so.
 
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The FLU farm

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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Congrats! Too bad you have to leave it behind for a while.
Be careful when using the press for straightening those thrust arms. I started with using the press, but the tubing wanted to cave in rather than bend back.
That's when I remembered having a crappy HF "tubing bender", which turned out to be perfect for the job.
 

alpine44

Member
403
17
18
Location
Asheville, NC - Elkton, MD
Congrats! Too bad you have to leave it behind for a while.
Be careful when using the press for straightening those thrust arms. I started with using the press, but the tubing wanted to cave in rather than bend back.
That's when I remembered having a crappy HF "tubing bender", which turned out to be perfect for the job.
Thanks for the warning. I will either fabricate some blocks with a radius groove matching the tube diameter or get the HF tube bender depending on how much they ask for it.

Yes, it is a little annoying to have the FLU419 and my machine shop 560 miles apart but at least I have what I need. I was actually contemplating to bore and sleeve the master cylinder to save the $750 but I found a better deal at a MB dealer.
 
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The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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1,329
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Thanks for the warning. I will either fabricate some blocks with a radius groove matching the tube diameter or get the HF tube bender depending on how much they ask for it.
In theory you should be able to buy the two dies separately, as parts, but it can take a while...if HF would even order them. Check Craigslist for a dysfunctional one (it's really only the jack that can go bad).
Or bite the bullet and buy a new one. They're quite inexpensive as I recall, and especially compared to a master cylinder.

But now I'm wondering what everybody else has used to straighten those things. Not knowing how much, if any, margin for axle position error there is in the drive shaft and/or transfer case, I didn't dare drive mine until the axle was moved back to factory spec position.
What did you use, guys??
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
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3,342
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
It's a running....parts car.
The two rust spots, in the bucket and the fuel tank, pictured here.DSCN0469[1].jpgIt figures that the only steel tank I have is the one that was full of water.
Cleansed the system, changed filters, and bled it. In the process, installed new copper washers at the banjo fittings.

DSCN0470[1].jpgAfter checking the engine fluids, the trusty SEE got to provide jump starting power. Which resulted in...nothing. Except for the ignition light and Volt meter coming on.

DSCN0473[1].jpgSure enough, the crafty Texas rodents had chewed off at least three wires up by the ignition and starter switches. Oh well, the remote starter switch is a handy thing, and I prefer starting vehicles with the right hand, anyway.

DSCN0471[1].jpgFinally, it runneth! Not only that, but very quietly, even with the doghouse off. And with no smoke.
Initially it ran a little too good, at a high rpm. And the shut-off didn't work. Lubed the linkage a bit more and it settled down. And turned off. Does feel like the linkage needs to be adjusted, though.

DSCN0472[1].jpgNotice that the rats spared the uber expensive seal at the loader levers and made an alternative path for ingress and egress.

So it runs, which is good and bad. Made it much easier to park it where I wanted to. Makes it much harder to make it a parts SEE.
The chewed wiring really discouraged me, largely because it's stupid hot and I had already spent about three hours working on it. Maybe I can stomach some wiring fixes once it gets back into the 70s.

Lastly, I can't remember if the SS rules prohibit betting, but I am curious how long it'll take my girlfriend to notice that there's a "new" SEE by the garage.
Here's a hint: After buying an M1009, it took about a month and a half before she asked "Did you buy another Blazer?" I used to have one for about 15 years, but had sold that one some two months prior.
What are your guesses?
 

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
It's a running....parts car.
The two rust spots, in the bucket and the fuel tank, pictured here.View attachment 685442It figures that the only steel tank I have is the one that was full of water.
Cleansed the system, changed filters, and bled it. In the process, installed new copper washers at the banjo fittings.

View attachment 685443After checking the engine fluids, the trusty SEE got to provide jump starting power. Which resulted in...nothing. Except for the ignition light and Volt meter coming on.

View attachment 685444Sure enough, the crafty Texas rodents had chewed off at least three wires up by the ignition and starter switches. Oh well, the remote starter switch is a handy thing, and I prefer starting vehicles with the right hand, anyway.

View attachment 685445Finally, it runneth! Not only that, but very quietly, even with the doghouse off. And with no smoke.
Initially it ran a little too good, at a high rpm. And the shut-off didn't work. Lubed the linkage a bit more and it settled down. And turned off. Does feel like the linkage needs to be adjusted, though.

View attachment 685446Notice that the rats spared the uber expensive seal at the loader levers and made an alternative path for ingress and egress.

So it runs, which is good and bad. Made it much easier to park it where I wanted to. Makes it much harder to make it a parts SEE.
The chewed wiring really discouraged me, largely because it's stupid hot and I had already spent about three hours working on it. Maybe I can stomach some wiring fixes once it gets back into the 70s.

Lastly, I can't remember if the SS rules prohibit betting, but I am curious how long it'll take my girlfriend to notice that there's a "new" SEE by the garage.
Here's a hint: After buying an M1009, it took about a month and a half before she asked "Did you buy another Blazer?" I used to have one for about 15 years, but had sold that one some two months prior.
What are your guesses?
Congratulations on bringing the SEE back to life with minimal expense and effort.
As far as betting on a woman's ability to notice anything new or different, I'll pass. I can't take receipt of a small package from EI without my wife saying she seen me sneak it into the garage. Sometimes all those security cameras here at the house are a curse
 

BnaditCorps

Member
479
1
18
Location
Solano County, California
I say 2 months.

That does bring you to a dilemma though having yet another working SEE as you will have to salvage one or buy another one. Although your girlfriend may be starting to thing you have a fetish for SEE's since you keep buying them.:lol:
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I say 2 months.
That does bring you to a dilemma though having yet another working SEE as you will have to salvage one or buy another one. Although your girlfriend may be starting to thing you have a fetish for SEE's since you keep buying them.:lol:
Two months, huh? I'm, guessing a couple three weeks less. But with an ever increasing amount of vehicles, they are harder to keep track of so you might be right.
And a dilemma it is. I don't have time to fix this one up to the standards I'd like a working or sellable machine to be at. Heck, it took me longer to move it 100 some feet to the garage than it took to get it started.
It'll have to sit for a while until I figure out the next step. Preferably in the shade (which is getting hard to come by) to preserve the pristine hydraulic hoses.
 

BnaditCorps

Member
479
1
18
Location
Solano County, California
Two months, huh? I'm, guessing a couple three weeks less. But with an ever increasing amount of vehicles, they are harder to keep track of so you might be right.
And a dilemma it is. I don't have time to fix this one up to the standards I'd like a working or sellable machine to be at. Heck, it took me longer to move it 100 some feet to the garage than it took to get it started.
It'll have to sit for a while until I figure out the next step. Preferably in the shade (which is getting hard to come by) to preserve the pristine hydraulic hoses.
Yeah Phoenix is like 120 degrees today? We have had 105 - 110 degrees all weekend and at night it hasn't gone below 80 degrees, and we aren't even getting the worst of it.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Yeah Phoenix is like 120 degrees today? We have had 105 - 110 degrees all weekend and at night it hasn't gone below 80 degrees, and we aren't even getting the worst of it.
Okay, okay, I'll stop whining about it being hot here. That it didn't get into the 40s last night was bad, I thought.

By the way, at this point my girlfriend has walked by the "new" SEE at least six times...within two feet of it. It's not exactly hidden, but parked parallel with the driveway. Plus, it's camo, the other two are tan.
That's an incredible amount of spatial unawareness, I think. And in some cases it does work to my advantage.
 
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