FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[The FLU farm]

You nailed it there, TFF. By default every steel vehicle is a "transformer". It's all just a matter of time.

Remember when we discussed rust and low oxygen levels on another thread, Ahab?
It may indeed only be a matter of time, but this car had a smaller lack of paint in this spot when I bought it locally in 2010. It has been parked outside ever since, and is driven when there's salt and crap on the roads. And, no, I have never washed it.
Each winter some more paint comes off, but the bare metal refuses to rust. Well, any more than what you see here.

So it may be a slow transformer, but it goes around corners fast.

 

[Another Ahab]

Each winter some more paint comes off, but the bare metal refuses to rust. Well, any more than what you see here.View attachment 687691

That has a special look, real nice.

You should exhibit that at the same gallery where cucvrus exhibits the undercarriage of his M1009.

You guys would both win art awards!

 

[The FLU farm]

That has a special look, real nice. You should exhibit that at the same gallery where cucvrus exhibits the undercarriage of his M1009. You guys would both win art awards!

Yeah, I've never seen anything quite like it on a vehicle,with that kind of coloration. And it's one of half a dozen such spots on that car.
If you recall me putting up a shade roof by the garage last year, this photo is of the post that faces southwest, which is where the rain usually comes from.
Sure, it has rusted at the welds, but not a whole lot. Low humidity and low oxygen levels do have advantages.

 

[General Hood]

Remember when we discussed rust and low oxygen levels on another thread, Ahab?
It may indeed only be a matter of time, but this car had a smaller lack of paint in this spot when I bought it locally in 2010. It has been parked outside ever since, and is driven when there's salt and crap on the roads. And, no, I have never washed it.
Each winter some more paint comes off, but the bare metal refuses to rust. Well, any more than what you see here.View attachment 687691

So it may be a slow transformer, but it goes around corners fast.

Flu Farm Camo

 

[patrol578]

About that Loader....

I have some catching up to do on the forum, as I've been spending nearly all of my free time lately on clearing our lot with the SEE. I have to report that I did come across a useful trick to operating the front bucket. Sorry in advance about the length of this post, but I thought it worth sharing.

A few weeks ago my 4wd went out. The switch resisted all efforts to be turned to the first detent. It isn't totally frozen, but feels like some of the internal rubber seals are now binding. Having some dirt to move and being in a hurry, I gave using the loader a try anyway, but in 2wd. And I was pleasantly surprised that it was waaay better than using 4wd.

The loader does not work optimally with the engine at or near idle RPM. Revving up the motor a bit not only moves everything more quickly, but also gives more power to lift and curl. That much has been obvious to me for a few weeks now. The problem with revving the motor is that the truck wants to drive faster too, slamming into whatever you are attempting to get into the bucket. You can disengage the clutch, but then you aren't pushing the bucket into that pile of dirt. Not so helpful. Slip the clutch? Never! Stall the truck? Sure, a few times.

In 2wd, the rear tires will spin, but not much since you are (hopefully) using I/1 gearing. They don't spin enough to dig a hole to get stuck in, and they act like a slipping clutch (but without the driveline abuse). In 2wd I've found that I have the second or two needed at elevated engine RPM to get a good load of dirt, rocks, roots, or whatever into the bucket.

Obviously your mileage may vary. If your area has sharp rocks, you will shred the rear tires. If you are working in sand, you may sink yourself down to the axle. I am operating in sandy loam with quite a few non-sharp rocks thrown in. So far the Michelins show no sign of wear or damage, and neither the driveline nor the Schmidt FL4 are complaining. Plus the higher engine RPM keep the Schmidt from doing the dreaded fold-under.

No, the SEE will still not "dig" with the front bucket. I have only been using this technique on loose material, but it sure makes the driver's steering-clutch-brakes-throttle-two levers dance more manageable.

 

[The FLU farm]

I have only been using this technique on loose material, but it sure makes the driver's steering-clutch-brakes-throttle-two levers dance more manageable.

Being that I tend to use 2WD in anything I drive until 4WD becomes a near necessity, that's how I've always done it with the SEE.
Not that much dirt has been moved or scooped up with it since it's much more of a hand full than doing the same task with the tractor. One lever instead of two, hydro shuttle instead of clutching...it's just easier and faster. Of course, a big part of it is that I'm still no good at getting the bucket in the correct position for picking up dirt - without also hitting what's under that dirt. A suspension lockout would help a lot, too, I think.
Anyway, ironically enough, when using the tractor I do put it in 4WD just before the loader bucket hits the pile. Otherwise the rear tires will dig in, leaving holes I don't want, since the tractor is less than half the weight of the SEE. Also, AG tires dig deeper holes than do the SEE's Michelins.

If the SEE was my primary dirt mover, a few modifications would be made; Remove the teeth, make a suspension lockout, and build a "visual aid" for the bucket's position - a simple rod and a sleeve, much like on the tractor. Or, I could learn to operate the SEE properly, but that's not likely to happen.

 

[General Hood]

Being that I tend to use 2WD in anything I drive until 4WD becomes a near necessity, that's how I've always done it with the SEE.
Not that much dirt has been moved or scooped up with it since it's much more of a hand full than doing the same task with the tractor. One lever instead of two, hydro shuttle instead of clutching...it's just easier and faster. Of course, a big part of it is that I'm still no good at getting the bucket in the correct position for picking up dirt - without also hitting what's under that dirt. A suspension lockout would help a lot, too, I think.
Anyway, ironically enough, when using the tractor I do put it in 4WD just before the loader bucket hits the pile. Otherwise the rear tires will dig in, leaving holes I don't want, since the tractor is less than half the weight of the SEE. Also, AG tires dig deeper holes than do the SEE's Michelins.

If the SEE was my primary dirt mover, a few modifications would be made; Remove the teeth, make a suspension lockout, and build a "visual aid" for the bucket's position - a simple rod and a sleeve, much like on the tractor. Or, I could learn to operate the SEE properly, but that's not likely to happen.

Yeah, it would have been great if forethought in the design would have allowed for removable teeth. Most of the time I find the front bucket teeth to be a hindrance in manicuring any type of dirtwork

 

[General Hood]

View attachment page 49.pdf

Here we are, page 49 on Uncle Sam's Equipment ID Chart

 

[patrol578]

Yeah, the Army is going bigger and heavier with just about everything these days. I'm not sure that's wise in the long run.

 

[Another Ahab]

Yeah, the Army is going bigger and heavier with just about everything these days. I'm not sure that's wise in the long run.

Supersized.

It might be becoming the "American Way" or something.

 

[General Hood]

Supersized.

It might be becoming the "American Way" or something.



View attachment 687953

I pictured you with longer hair

 

[patrol578]

If the SEE was my primary dirt mover, a few modifications would be made; Remove the teeth, make a suspension lockout, and build a "visual aid" for the bucket's position - a simple rod and a sleeve, much like on the tractor. Or, I could learn to operate the SEE properly, but that's not likely to happen.

Mine already has a visual aid. The flat L-brackets at either side of the back of the bucket -- the top horizontal part of those is almost exactly parallel to the bottom of the bucket. Guessing how close to the ground it is happens all by feel though.

I have only used it for rough work, and given the plentiful rocks here, the teeth have been helpful.

 

[The FLU farm]

Yeah, it would have been great if forethought in the design would have allowed for removable teeth.

It was extremely tempting to make a joke about your age and removable teeth here, but out of respect for the elderly, I won't.

 

[The FLU farm]

Mine already has a visual aid. The flat L-brackets at either side of the back of the bucket -- the top horizontal part of those is almost exactly parallel to the bottom of the bucket. Guessing how close to the ground it is happens all by feel though.

Yeah, those are better than nothing. They (I?) are nowhere near precise enough for what I like to achieve, though.
In an ideal world I could pick up dirt and leave no more than a 1/4-inch, without disturbing the grass.
Every year I get a little better with the tractor, and snow removal is good practice, but I'll never get to that level with the SEE.
Of course, it's not meant for that kind of precision work.

 

[Another Ahab]

It was extremely tempting to make a joke about your age and removable teeth here, but out of respect for the elderly, I won't.

Take it from the hockey players:

- Teeth are over-rated.

(Ask "Howe" I know )

 

[The FLU farm]

By the way, for those of you who always wanted a crane, but were too afraid to ask, there's one coming up.

 

[alpine44]

By the way, for those of you who always wanted a crane, but were too afraid to ask, there's one coming up.

Sold for slightly over 10k, which seems high considering that most relays are missing, a lot of wires are hanging loose, plus a crappy paint job and some pitted cylinders.

 

[The FLU farm]

Yeah, that selling price surprised me. But if one really needs or wants an HMMH, there's not much to choose from.
Hopefully it was an SS member that bagged it so we get to learn more about that one.

 

[Hank69]

I know one of the most common complaints with the front bucket loader is that it can't be tilted and that the front suspension squats when you dig the bucket in. Has anyone here put hydraulic cylinders in the front suspension? That would allow you to tilt the Mog and could also lock the front suspension in place when digging. With a hydraulic actuator with a center lock position it could hold the tilt that you put it at and a bypass position for normal operation. I was thinking that a 12" travel cylinder with a 2" bore and a 1 1/4" rod would do the trick. They could probably even be installed in place of the front shocks, but with a cylinder that big the shock towers would probably need to be reinforced. I would prefer mechanical actuators, but finding a good mounting location might be a little problematic.

 

[LZahariev]

Having a front suspension lockout would help some but not as much as you think. The problem will still be present because the front loader is so far forward from the front axle and the rear axle is so close to the front axle. The front loader creates a lot of leverage on the truck itself that it would be hard to keep it stable, especially with the rear suspension travel. It will always want to tilt forward unless it was on tracks and a longer wheelbase... You just have to adapt to the tilt.... Just my thoughts...