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FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

glcaines

Well-known member
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Hiawassee, Georgia
Generally you can just clean out the ones you have to stop the leakage. Or replace them with affordable ball valves.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks! Your advice was spot on. I cancelled my order for the new drain valves. I removed the old ones and I was amazed at how much trash came out. The two on the tanks were very tight but I was able to get them loose with a hand wrench. The center one was virtually solid. I had to put a piece of 2 foot pipe on the end of my 1 foot wrench for more leverage and use my foot on the end of the pipe to get it to come loose while holding a long wrench with both hands on the fitting it was screwed into. I don't think it had ever been removed previously. I was afraid I was going to break something, but it finally came loose. Once loose it unscrewed by hand. The fitting was packed full of corroded crud. I started the engine to let the air blow out as much as I could. I plan on removing all three again after a few hours of the compressor running to make sure I get most of the stuff out. After re-installation, none of the drain valves are leaking anymore. I also think your idea of possibly using ball valves is a very good idea since the ball valves have a large enough passage to let crud come out under air pressure.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
The potential downside to using ball valves is that they're more susceptible to breaking off. Even the small ones I use hang down by over an inch.
But I don't drive through brush, and if I did I'd put a 90 on them.

Besides, I may have to hoof it for a 1/4 mile, worst case, and grab a new valve from the garage. I can live with that.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
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113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Does anybody know what these holes are in my hood? I'm assuming that they are unused on a SEE, but have a purpose on civilian Unimogs, such as trim? I've looked at photos of two other SEEs and haven't seen those holes. The four holes are centered, two close together a few inches from the front edge and the other two spread far apart on the leading edge. My hood had severe rust on the underside, but was very good on the topside. I sandblasted the bottom and sanded the top. I primed and painted with Gillespie 383 on both sides. I'm now going to add the camo to match the original. One thing of interest, is that when I sanded the topside of the hood, original numbers came up and these did not match the numbers currently on the SEE. Obviously, the hood came from a different SEE.
Edit: Answered my own question. The holes are for the Mercedes and Unimog emblems on 406 and 416.

The numbers currently on my SEE are Left: 157 MEB 724E Right: 950th 231M
The painted over numbers on the hood are Left: 264GPE Right: 229E 238M

Both sets of numbers are from the Wisconsin National Guard.
Hood Holes.JPG
 
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tmcnaney

New member
6
9
3
Location
Vermont
New here! Just purchased a FLU419, have the front bucket off, seams slower uphill now?

I reworked the air cables in the high low as they were broken. I am thinking that the plumbing is wrong. I also only have “2” diff lock, also part of the air system.

Going to review the value system next


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Migginsbros

Well-known member
2,210
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Location
Berlin-Germany
New here! Just purchased a FLU419, have the front bucket off, seams slower uphill now?

I reworked the air cables in the high low as they were broken. I am thinking that the plumbing is wrong. I also only have “2” diff lock, also part of the air system.

Going to review the value system next


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Welcome from overSEEs
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I have two rubber tubing runs on the front of my SEE engine. One of the lines has been cut in half. The upper portion has been taped off with electrical tape. The portion of the tubing on the bottom is open and not taped off. I have no idea what function this hose performs. I'm assuming I should replace the hose and reconnect it. The other hose I have questions about is the small hose labelled as unknown. I'm almost certain this is the coolant overflow line. Edit: Definitely the coolant overflow line.
Unknown Tubing 1.jpg
 
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tmcnaney

New member
6
9
3
Location
Vermont
I have two rubber tubing runs on the front of my SEE engine. One of the lines has been cut in half. The upper portion has been taped off with electrical tape. The portion of the tubing on the bottom is open and not taped off. I have no idea what function this hose performs. I'm assuming I should replace the hose and reconnect it. The other hose I have questions about is the small hose labelled as unknown. The other end connects to a fitting on a coolant line. Perhaps this is a coolant overflow line?
View attachment 814595
That looks like it might go there. Check out this link https://expedition-imports.com/0026-00-2-Figure-25-Fuel-Pumps-–-Metal-Tube-Assemblies_c_385.html


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glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Neither line is a fuel line. The lower portion of the larger line that is cut off is connected to the timing gear cover. The upper portion of the larger line that is taped off, is laying on top of the fuel filter, which is misleading.
 
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glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I have two rubber tubing runs on the front of my SEE engine. One of the lines has been cut in half. The upper portion has been taped off with electrical tape. The portion of the tubing on the bottom is open and not taped off. I have no idea what function this hose performs. I'm assuming I should replace the hose and reconnect it. The other hose I have questions about is the small hose labelled as unknown. The other end connects to a fitting on a coolant line. Perhaps this is a coolant overflow line?
View attachment 814595
The larger line connects to the fitting on the top of the timing gear case, shown as #19 in the attached drawing. The taped off portion at the top of the photo disappears and I can't tell where it goes. I'm thinking this might be a lubrication line to lubricate the timing gears, but I've not been able to find a reference to this in the TMs.
 

Attachments

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
What I thought was a pneumatic line in my earlier post, turns out to be an electrical connector on an electrical cable, which was taped off. Does anyone know what the purpose of this connector is? It is located on top of the fuel filter and the cable runs to the rear of the engine in a bundle of other electrical cables and then I lose sight of it. I'm also still trying to find out where the vent line on the timing gear case is supposed to be run and where it terminates. I've given up finding either answer in the TMs.
Unknown Electrical Connector.JPG
 
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Speedwoble

Well-known member
606
301
63
Location
New Holland, PA
What I thought was a pneumatic line in my earlier post, turns out to be an electrical connector on an electrical cable, which was taped off. Does anyone know what the purpose of this connector is? It is located on top of the fuel filter and the cable runs to the rear of the engine in a bundle of other electrical cables and then I lose sight of it. I'm also still trying to find out where the vent line on the timing gear case is supposed to be run and where it terminates. I've given up finding either answer in the TMs.
View attachment 814887
That looks like the connector to the pressure sensor over the fuel filters. It is not needed, and the wires connect to the test port in the center console.
I don’t recall where the vent line from the timing gear case goes and I’m not sure when I will have time to check. Perhaps someone else on here can raise their hood and report.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
That looks like the connector to the pressure sensor over the fuel filters. It is not needed, and the wires connect to the test port in the center console.
I don’t recall where the vent line from the timing gear case goes and I’m not sure when I will have time to check. Perhaps someone else on here can raise their hood and report.
There is already another cable connected to the pressure sensor. I thought the same thing when I was looking through the TMs.
 

tmcnaney

New member
6
9
3
Location
Vermont
Does anyone know the weight of the backhoe on the 419? I removed it today, however now there is not enough weight to use the bucket. Need to counter balance the backhoe until I can replace the seals


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Jabberjaw

New member
2
0
1
Location
ME
Does anybody know the years these were made by Freightliner? I'm looking at one that has '10-02' handstamped on the nameplate. That seems rather recent and possibly suspect. Does this look correct to you? Thanks.
1603203655973.png
 

peakbagger

Well-known member
734
360
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Location
northern nh
Freightliner was and I think still is owned by Daimler that also owns Mercedes Benz. Freightliner never built a SEE, its just a rebadged Mercedes Unimog 406 chassis minus a rear bed with a reinforced frame and Roll Over Protection System (ROPS) which is the big roll bar behind the cap. The freightliner badging was strictly camouflaged for the politicians that there spending 100 K plus for German built Unimogs.

It was upfitted in the US with custom rear bed including the Case Backhoe, rear hydraulic Stanley tool system and Hydraulic tanks. The loader is a German Schmidt loader that is a factory option on Unmogs but it uses a custom Unimog specific attachment plate. The steel roof over the cab, Falling Object Protection (FOPS) was also upfitted in the US

CARC is a coating applied to the body and does not imply when it was made. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemical_Agent_Resistant_Coating

There are folks that can determine the build date with the serial numbers but I am not one of them. If there is a separate plate showing a RCAP date, thats valuable as it means that the government rebuilt the vehicle to like new condition at some point.

Realistically its how the rig was treated over its life that make the difference. There is an hour meter on the motor. The red digit is not a tenth its an hour.
 

Jabberjaw

New member
2
0
1
Location
ME
Freightliner was and I think still is owned by Daimler that also owns Mercedes Benz. Freightliner never built a SEE, its just a rebadged Mercedes Unimog 406 chassis minus a rear bed with a reinforced frame and Roll Over Protection System (ROPS) which is the big roll bar behind the cap. The freightliner badging was strictly camouflaged for the politicians that there spending 100 K plus for German built Unimogs.

It was upfitted in the US with custom rear bed including the Case Backhoe, rear hydraulic Stanley tool system and Hydraulic tanks. The loader is a German Schmidt loader that is a factory option on Unmogs but it uses a custom Unimog specific attachment plate. The steel roof over the cab, Falling Object Protection (FOPS) was also upfitted in the US

CARC is a coating applied to the body and does not imply when it was made. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chemical_Agent_Resistant_Coating

There are folks that can determine the build date with the serial numbers but I am not one of them. If there is a separate plate showing a RCAP date, thats valuable as it means that the government rebuilt the vehicle to like new condition at some point.

Realistically its how the rig was treated over its life that make the difference. There is an hour meter on the motor. The red digit is not a tenth its an hour.
Thanks for your reply.

1603207082231.png

it does have RRAD badge as well. I've seen some that say 'Overhauled at RRAD'. Is that the same meaning as 'Recapped'? Is it common for these to be handstamped?
 
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