FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[rtrask]

@rtrask do you mind taking pictures of what your old master cylinder looked like inside and post in a thread? I’d like to see whether the inside was pitted or the seals went out… or both.

This thread is a total CF . It’s so convoluted and a bunched up mess of topics. I’d it helpful when searching for solutions to a certain problem faced? I doubt it. And the topic is pretty useless already , since it’s obvious that one one’s a Unimog when posting in a Unimog section.
Why would be make any particular thread, if throwing it all in one dump is so much better?

I looked back through my EI orders and saw that I ordered the replacement master cylinder back in December of 2018, so it has been a while. Since then I moved about 190 miles south west, and have most of my worldly possessions divide between two shipping containers while we build our house. So while I know I saved the old master cylinder it is a bit of a craps shoot if I can lay my hands on it. I will see if I can find it and create a thread with pictures.

I hear you about trying to find anything in this thread, but I also own a MEP-803A generator. Those folks on the generator forum are pretty fanatical about starting a new thread for everything. I have to say that personally I don't find it much better. It is really hard to find relevant information, in part that is because there are so many different kinds of generators. The folks on this thread are knowledgeable and will generally point you at previous threads they have contributed to. It is apples and oranges I know, it is easier to keep up with this one thread and there is only the SEE and HMMH each of which have more in common than different. Just my 2 cents. I started an index of this thread, and by it's nature it is a work in progress, and I have not updated it recently. I will post it in a different thread on this forum, and circle back to create a link to that thread here.

Here is the link to the index I created Click Here

 

[The FLU farm]

I hear you about trying to find anything in this thread...

Which is why I reread it all ever so often.
Yes, it's not as easy as being spoon fed, but not exactly a hardship either.

 

[319cssb]

I looked back through my EI orders and saw that I ordered the replacement master cylinder back in December of 2018, so it has been a while. Since then I moved about 190 miles south west, and have most of my worldly possessions divide between two shipping containers while we build our house. So while I know I saved the old master cylinder it is a bit of a craps shoot if I can lay my hands on it. I will see if I can find it and create a thread with pictures.

I hear you about trying to find anything in this thread, but I also own a MEP-803A generator. Those folks on the generator forum are pretty fanatical about starting a new thread for everything. I have to say that personally I don't find it much better. It is really hard to find relevant information, in part that is because there are so many different kinds of generators. The folks on this thread are knowledgeable and will generally point you at previous threads they have contributed to. It is apples and oranges I know, it is easier to keep up with this one thread and there is only the SEE and HMMH each of which have more in common than different. Just my 2 cents. I started an index of this thread, and by it's nature it is a work in progress, and I have not updated it recently. I will post it in a different thread on this forum, and circle back to create a link to that thread here.

Here is the link to the index I created Click Here

Congratulations on your move. I know it’s difficult keeping track of things and where they are in a big move.
I think having many threads about a certain project is probably a better thing as it makes google searches easier. I don’t use the forum search , as it’s pretty much useless.
I have bookmarked your index and will use it to find things I want to read through.
My master brake cylinder will need to be replaced, so I was deciding on whether I get a rebuild kit, a rebuild master (which funny enough costs as much as a rebuild kit) or a new one. If the seals look the way they do on the hydraulic cylinders then I bet they are crumbled. But pooling fluid could also have pitted the bore itself.
In that thought it’s probably good to see what others have experienced.

 

[319cssb]

Which is why I reread it all ever so often.
Yes, it's not as easy as being spoon fed, but not exactly a hardship either.

The hard ship is , if you simply don’t have the time to read through ~130 pages to find what is relevant to you.

P.S. @rtrask i went looking for the bush hog post from your index. It is supposed to be 742, but that post is not about bushhogging. So is this index really accurate?

 

[Knobby57]

yeah, I went through several rounds of bleeding the brakes and replaced the master cylinder and reservoir. Lots of not cheap dot 5. This thread has a lot of info on building a pressurized bleeding set up for the two reservoirs. Unfortunately for me I discovered too late where the leak is, and I have to make due with the hand brake until I can tip the cab again.

All the stuff you are doing to the air system sounds great, but I wonder if you missed the point of the post in the link There are a lot of air controls that are pressurized by that back tank. With that tank missing that plumbing likely needs replacement too. So make sure you understand how to get the correct pressure to those accessory activation controls.

Looks like the small
Tank is strictly for trailer brake and being towed . I have no plans on doing either Of those

 

[rtrask]

I am going to change my focus from digging the trench for the power line to installing the septic system. (I have a lot of work for my SEE).

I have been told that I need to make the leach field as level as possible. For the power line trench I did not care as long as the depth was at least 41", which I think it is mostly 60". For the leach field I need to have it level, and the surface is anything but level. Do any of you experienced folks have any recommendations on how I can get it done?

 

[The FLU farm]

Never had to make a truly level trench, just irrigation ditches, but if I had to I guess I'd use a transit or maybe a laser.

 

[319cssb]

I thought a leech field has a 2% slope?

 

[rtrask]

I thought a leech field has a 2% slope?

Not sure where I read it but one source said 1/8" per foot on the leach field, and lots of sources say 1/4" per foot on all the plumbing leading to the septic tank. When I asked a friend of mine who has installed septic systems for a living for over 40 years he said it should be level because you don't want any of the effluent to reach the far end of the field. When I mentioned the 1/8" per foot he said a little slope would not hurt, but the flatter the better. So 2% works out to 1/4" per foot. The engineer has in the design to maintain a minimum of .84% slope on all pipe. I suspect that the real answer is that it depends on the absorption characteristics of the leach field bed.

Never had to make a truly level trench, just irrigation ditches, but if I had to I guess I'd use a transit or maybe a laser.

I have a cheap laser level, I might get a better one.

---------

All of this is just background noise to what my real question is. Does anyone have tips / techniques on operating the SEE to create a level or nearly level floor when the digging is done? Especially given that ground surface is not level? I would guess that a laser level / transit might play a part in that but the primary thing is still how to work the levers / watch / manipulate the bucket to get a result that is close? I know that I will need to do clean up work with the front end loader, but as you all know the front end loader on the SEE is weak sauce. I feel like I am going to need to do a really good job with the backhoe to get the job done right.

 

[Knobby57]

Not sure where I read it but one source said 1/8" per foot on the leach field, and lots of sources say 1/4" per foot on all the plumbing leading to the septic tank. When I asked a friend of mine who has installed septic systems for a living for over 40 years he said it should be level because you don't want any of the effluent to reach the far end of the field. When I mentioned the 1/8" per foot he said a little slope would not hurt, but the flatter the better. So 2% works out to 1/4" per foot. The engineer has in the design to maintain a minimum of .84% slope on all pipe. I suspect that the real answer is that it depends on the absorption characteristics of the leach field bed.



I have a cheap laser level, I might get a better one.

---------

All of this is just background noise to what my real question is. Does anyone have tips / techniques on operating the SEE to create a level or nearly level floor when the digging is done? Especially given that ground surface is not level? I would guess that a laser level / transit might play a part in that but the primary thing is still how to work the levers / watch / manipulate the bucket to get a result that is close? I know that I will need to do clean up work with the front end loader, but as you all know the front end loader on the SEE is weak sauce. I feel like I am going to need to do a really good job with the backhoe to get the job done right.

I’ll bet I can be done . But a small dozer and skid steer is the ticket for shipping a sand mound …..but get yourself a good laser level you can see during the day and put yell painters tape on the stick of the backhoe . Is will make for a good quick reference where you are at .

 

[glcaines]

Which is why I reread it all ever so often.
Yes, it's not as easy as being spoon fed, but not exactly a hardship either.

Yeah, I just finished re-reading the FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners Group again from beginning to end for the third time since I got my SEE. Every time I read it I see something I missed previously or something I forgot. There is a lot of very good information there. Kudos to Migginsbros for starting it. I also follow the Benzworld forum on Unimogs. I find the best way to search for a particular topic on my FLU419 is to use Google for the question, or to send a PM to someone I know that has one and is probably familiar with my issue. My biggest complaint involves owners that never bother reading the TMs before asking a question or don't even bother downloading the TMs. The TMs answer most of the questions if one bothers to look.

 

[319cssb]

Yeah, I just finished re-reading the FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners Group again from beginning to end for the third time since I got my SEE. Every time I read it I see something I missed previously or something I forgot. There is a lot of very good information there. Kudos to Migginsbros for starting it. I also follow the Benzworld forum on Unimogs. I find the best way to search for a particular topic on my FLU419 is to use Google for the question, or to send a PM to someone I know that has one and is probably familiar with my issue. My biggest complaint involves owners that never bother reading the TMs before asking a question or don't even bother downloading the TMs. The TMs answer most of the questions if one bothers to look.

Must be nice to be retired and have all the time in the world to read 5000+ posts. Not just once , but three times for good measure!

 

[rtrask]

Must be nice to be retired and have all the time in the world to read 5000+ posts. Not just once , but three times for good measure!

Well, I am not retired, but I am pretty sure I will not have any more time to do it when I am. It is all about priorities.

 

[319cssb]

Well, I am not retired, but I am pretty sure I will not have any more time to do it when I am. It is all about priorities.

We’ll my priorities shifted after reaching page 5.
I still think starting a thread with what your issue or situation maybe is a better way to go.

 

[peakbagger]

A bit of sad political commentary, the SEE was designed and intended for ground war with the Soviets in Europe. It looks like it was just 30 years too early

 

[glcaines]

I received my 5 NOS Pirelli PS 12.5 X 20R tires from CSM Army Tires and had them mounted. It took the tire shop 4 hours to mount all five tires. Getting the old tires off the wheels and the new tires on the wheels by hand wasn't that difficult. However, inflating the new tires was a real problem. They were using two 5-gallon bead seaters simultaneously to no avail. They were outside and the temperature was around 20 deg. F. and the tires were very stiff. They finally moved inside and turned the thermostat up to 80 deg. F. and warmed up the tires with portable heaters. They finally got them seated. I paid $30.00 each for the mounting as they had quoted. I tried to pay more due to the problems, but they refused to take more. The FLU419 rides a lot harder on the new tires than on the old Michelin 12.5 X 20R tires while driving on the highway.

 

[peakbagger]

I received my 5 NOS Pirelli PS 12.5 X 20R tires from CSM Army Tires and had them mounted. It took the tire shop 4 hours to mount all five tires. Getting the old tires off the wheels and the new tires on the wheels by hand wasn't that difficult. However, inflating the new tires was a real problem. They were using two 5-gallon bead seaters simultaneously to no avail. They were outside and the temperature was around 20 deg. F. and the tires were very stiff. They finally moved inside and turned the thermostat up to 80 deg. F. and warmed up the tires with portable heaters. They finally got them seated. I paid $30.00 each for the mounting as they had quoted. I tried to pay more due to the problems, but they refused to take more. The FLU419 rides a lot harder on the new tires than on the old Michelin 12.5 X 20R tires while driving on the highway.

View attachment 859855

To me it was quite a difference going from the the Michelins to the Pirelli's on the road. I much prefer the Pirellis.

In warm weather if got it down to 20 minutes a tire once I figured out that the best bead breaker is a wooden plank and the SEE. That air powered rig that I bought to pull the tires off the rims goes quick if I lube things up. I have done the ether trick a couple of times but a single bead blaster seems to have worked well.

 

[glcaines]

To me it was quite a difference going from the the Michelins to the Pirelli's on the road. I much prefer the Pirellis.

In warm weather if got it down to 20 minutes a tire once I figured out that the best bead breaker is a wooden plank and the SEE. That air powered rig that I bought to pull the tires off the rims goes quick if I lube things up. I have done the ether trick a couple of times but a single bead blaster seems to have worked well.

I agree with you. The Pirellis ride a little harder, but I feel a lot more secure when on the highway - not so much bouncing. The tire shop basically had zero problems removing the old tires and mounting the new ones by hand. They lubed everything up really well and one or two whacks with a sledgehammer did the trick. I'm convinced that buying the Pirellis was a good decision and the price was right.

 

[The FLU farm]

All of this is just background noise to what my real question is. Does anyone have tips / techniques on operating the SEE to create a level or nearly level floor when the digging is done? Especially given that ground surface is not level? I would guess that a laser level / transit might play a part in that but the primary thing is still how to work the levers / watch / manipulate the bucket to get a result that is close?

You may be overthinking this, Ron.

When the SEE is higher in relation to the bottom of the "floor" you obviously need to dig a bit deeper, and vice versa. Since you'll have to stop digging and reposition every 12 feet or so anyway, that's a good time to use a laser, mirror (if the sun is out), transit, or flashlight (if it's dark) to keep track of how level the trench is.

I bet you'll get the hang of it after the first 20 feet or so.

 

[Knobby57]

yeah, I went through several rounds of bleeding the brakes and replaced the master cylinder and reservoir. Lots of not cheap dot 5. This thread has a lot of info on building a pressurized bleeding set up for the two reservoirs. Unfortunately for me I discovered too late where the leak is, and I have to make due with the hand brake until I can tip the cab again.

All the stuff you are doing to the air system sounds great, but I wonder if you missed the point of the post in the link There are a lot of air controls that are pressurized by that back tank. With that tank missing that plumbing likely needs replacement too. So make sure you understand how to get the correct pressure to those accessory activation controls.

The air controls for the shifter and axle lock pull off the front tank . There is a unloader/ priority valve mounted on the center beam . That unloader is adjustable if you ever cared to have the controls come in at a lower pressure . I set my air controls to come in about 85-90 psi .