• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,594
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Yesterday, I ran my FLU419 jackhammer continuously around 10 hours, breaking up old concrete footings. I didn't do it all myself as that would have done me in very quickly. That thing is a beast, but man does it do the work! This was the only time I have ever had the cooling fan turn on. I say fan, because one of the fans is burned out. I have a replacement but haven't installed it yet. My biggest problem was the spool for the hydraulic lines. I need to dismantle it and clean it up. Although my hydraulic hoses are in excellent condition, one is seriously damaged right behand the connector for the tools where they flex the most. The biggest problem I had was making sure I didn't stick the jackhammer bit, which I did a few times. The key is to not run the bit too deep. Even if the bit isn't stuck, just lifting the jackhammer out is a real chore. I had to add oil to the tank twice since some of the hydraulic oil is expended lubricating the tool. Buying that FLU419 was one of my best moves.
Jack Hammer 1.jpgJack Hammer 2.jpgJack Hammer 3.jpg
 
Last edited:

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,594
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Nice! I made extension hoses (about 20' long) which not only helps reach places, but takes stress off of the standard hoses.
Try that, unless your one hose is already too far gone.
My current hoses are ~30 feet long and in excellent shape except for the end. The FLU was so close to the work area because it was in the final area. Most of the work had the hydraulic lines stretched as far as they would go. I can see where extension hoses would be a great advantage. So far I've only used the chainsaw and jackhammer. I have never used the drill. The drill is actually brand new and had never been used. I should try it to make sure it works OK.
 
Last edited:

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
113
Location
Charlotte NC
My current hoses are ~30 feet long and in excellent shape except for the end.
.
It might be worth a trip to a line shop and have a foot or so cut off and replace the hose ends. There are "skive" hose ends that allow you to do that at home (in your shop) too if you spend the time to find them.

Much better than scrapping all 20/30 feet...
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,716
19,766
113
Location
Charlotte NC

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,594
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I need to replace the ends on the hydraulic lines for the hydraulic tools. I plan to cut off about 1 - 2 feet. I don't want to drain the hydraulic tank. I'm assuming that if I don't engage the switch for the hydraulic tools that I can simply cut the ends off the lines and drain the fluid from the lines without draining anything from the balance of the front hydraulic system? I need to drive the FLU about 15 - 20 miles, with the lines drained, to where the new ends will be swaged onto the lines and they won't let me drain anything at their facility.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,328
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Don't remember if the hoses would still drain or not, but either way I'd pull the reel (and hoses) off and take it to the shop that way.

Anyway, if you remove one of the disconnects you'll find out if it'll drain the tank or not.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,594
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Now, I have a real problem. I decided to take Flu Farm's advice and remove the entire reel assembly. Unfortunately, I just had surgery and so I decided to drive the SEE to a friend's shop and have him remove the reel assembly for me. After about 7-8 miles on the highway, the SEE decided to lose power to the wheels. I was shifting the Intermediate Speed Control from high to low and I noticed I didn't hear any engagement noise like I normally hear and it didn't engage. The SEE kept driving, however. Then I shifted the transmission from 3rd to 2nd gear and after about 2 minutes, the SEE lost power to the wheels. It is now sitting by the side of the road. I'm almost convinced the problem involves the Intermediate Speed Control and that it is between gears. The problem is definitely not the clutch as I can engage and disengage the PTO. Anyone have any ideas? Is there a way I can manually shift the Intermediate Speed Control into gear while the SEE is stationary?
 

Migginsbros

Well-known member
2,204
6,701
113
Location
Berlin-Germany
We had a clugged fuel filter and no power at speed. No problem at low idle. The small filter near the tank was full of crap. We changed both main filters, full of dirt/ broun Dieselpest. How low is the temp outside , may be Diesel is sticky
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,594
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Yep, I'd check the strainer, and clean it. Quick and easy, and hopefully that's the problem.
I think I didn't describe the problem adequately. When I said there was no power to the wheels I meant that it was like the transmission was in neutral. No forward and no reverse. The engine runs fine. I'm almost possible that it is the Intermediate Speed Control. After looking in the TM under troubleshooting, the Intermediate Speed Control is what the TM suggests looking at.
 
Top