Fording Project

[rustystud]

i was stationed in kanoehe bay hawaii, thats on oahu.. i did get a brake from it when sent over to saudi aribia kuwait and iraq though only 125f there.. haha

At least it's a dry heat right ! LOL !!!

 

[rustystud]

this is a great idea. ive though many years to build something like this for my offroad vehicles just never have, we have several water crossings here in alaska i deal with and this would be ideal!

I wanted it to be as simple as possible. This way with just a switch to throw and a regulator to adjust your ready to go !

 

[lino]

I only need a 2 way valve. Normally open to vent the gears and powered ( with the dash switch) to close to pressurize.

When the valve is powered off, and the solenoid open and venting to atmosphere, what is the regulator doing? Wouldn't it be driving (or trying to) 3 psi to atmosphere? Or do you dial "off" the regulator when not in use?

So to turn on, you flip solenoid switch, and dial regulator from zero to desired pressure?

 

[peashooter]

.....but first I have to go on a 2 hour road trip to get some "ethanol free" gasoline. I truly hate this ethanol gas we have to deal with ! I also absolutely refuse to put that crappy fuel in my chainsaw or any of my other small gas engines.

Wow 2 hours is the closest place to get ethanol free? Are any of these places closer to you? http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=WA

 

[rustystud]

When the valve is powered off, and the solenoid open and venting to atmosphere, what is the regulator doing? Wouldn't it be driving (or trying to) 3 psi to atmosphere? Or do you dial "off" the regulator when not in use?

So to turn on, you flip solenoid switch, and dial regulator from zero to desired pressure?

Actually. I thought about adding another solenoid valve to close-off the regulator but I figured you will always be adjusting the regulator since atmospheric conditions will always be in flux from day to day, or due to elevation.

 

[rustystud]

Wow 2 hours is the closest place to get ethanol free? Are any of these places closer to you? http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=WA

Thanks for the spreadsheet Aaron ! I didn't know that existed. I'm actually almost in Duvall WA so the nearest place is the Grange in Issaquah. Just went there this morning and got 10 gallons, plus the nearest Krispy Kreme place is there too ! So of course I had to buy some donuts !
The Grange gas station was the busiest gas station I have seen in years !!! There where people with there trucks full of gas cans and large containers filling up. One guy had over twenty 5 gallon cans in the back ! This "PC" madness with the fuel really needs to stop !!!

 

[tim292stro]

I just looked at the pictures you posted Tim. I see you have one of the "Makapuu" light house. As you stood there if you looked north you would see my in-laws house on the beach.

I have no idea what their house looks like, but yup, I did see houses out there By the way, took two trips and three days on the second trip to catch a clear day for these pictures...

When the valve is powered off, and the solenoid open and venting to atmosphere, what is the regulator doing? Wouldn't it be driving (or trying to) 3 psi to atmosphere? Or do you dial "off" the regulator when not in use? So to turn on, you flip solenoid switch, and dial regulator from zero to desired pressure?

The solenoid would vent the controlled air circuit to atmosphere - as far as the pressure regulator is concerned, it's looking at an on-off valve. Looking at the valve from the axle/transfer-case/transmission view, it's either controlled pressure or uncontrolled atmospheric vent.

I wanted it to be as simple as possible. This way with just a switch to throw and a regulator to adjust your ready to go !

Couple of follow-up comments RustyStud:

• Could use a ball valve, and that would be less likely to leak over time.
• Could use a second stage regulator (part in the mouthpiece) from a diving rig which has the diaphragm the references ambient pressure for controlling the process.
  • This would automatically adjust for you.
  • The mouthpiece valves include both a pressure (breath in) and a vent (breath out), so once you leave the water it would relieve the pressure in your cases, preventing blowing your seals out the other way.
  • I see these on e-place for less than $50 used...

 

[rustystud]

View attachment 604792
I have no idea what their house looks like, but yup, I did see houses out there By the way, took two trips and three days on the second trip to catch a clear day for these pictures...


The solenoid would vent the controlled air circuit to atmosphere - as far as the pressure regulator is concerned, it's looking at an on-off valve. Looking at the valve from the axle/transfer-case/transmission view, it's either controlled pressure or uncontrolled atmospheric vent.


Couple of follow-up comments RustyStud:

• Could use a ball valve, and that would be less likely to leak over time.
• Could use a second stage regulator (part in the mouthpiece) from a diving rig which has the diaphragm the references ambient pressure for controlling the process.
  • This would automatically adjust for you.
  • The mouthpiece valves include both a pressure (breath in) and a vent (breath out), so once you leave the water it would relieve the pressure in your cases, preventing blowing your seals out the other way.
  • I see these on e-place for less than $50 used...

The seals should be able to withstand 2.5 - 3.0 psi for such a short period so I'm not worried on that end. I didn't want to complicate this system to much so no ball valve either.
I can see the house or at least where it is from your picture.

 

[Another Ahab]

i was stationed in kanoehe bay hawaii, thats on oahu.. i did get a brake from it when sent over to saudi aribia kuwait and iraq though only 125f there.. haha

I was in Vegas once when the mercury hit 112F. I decided I should go outside and take a walk, check out what that kind of temperature "means".

That taught me something.

Are you telling me that people live in 125F temperatures!? Or is everybody inside? With A/C?

 

[rustystud]

I was in Vegas once when the mercury hit 112F. I decided I should go outside and take a walk, check out what that kind of temperature "means".

That taught me something.

Are you telling me that people live in 125F temperatures!? Or is everybody inside? With A/C?

No their outside. That also explains why most Arabic people always seem to be angry. There actually not angry just HOT !

 

[VPed]

One day while at work on the flight line at MCAS Yuma, the temp reached 135. This was on a day where the official airport temp was 115 degree. Of course there was only one airport and the flight line I speak of was at the same airport but the official temp is taken by a thermometer in the shade, away from heat radiating surfaces. Tens of thousands of cubic yards of concrete and aluminum airframes love the heat of full sun SW AZ summers.

 

[patracy]

View attachment 601914View attachment 601915View attachment 601916

I've been working on a Fording project for my deuce since summer ended. I already have all the differentials and transfer-case and transmission connected with a 1/4" DOT hoses up to the engine firewall. Now I'm installing the heart of the project the control unit. It has a 0 to 3 PSI gauge, low pressure adjuster, switch and flow control valve. The last part I need is still in the mail. It's a 2-way 24 volt DC normally open solenoid valve that will control the air-flow to the collection unit where all the hoses met up. This will allow me to either vent normally the gear units or close it off and fill the units with 2.5 PSI of air pressure. This is enough air pressure to keep out water to a level of about 10ft deep. Since I never plan on going under water it will work just fine. This unit will mount under the main dash board. To operate all I need to do is flip the switch on and adjust the pressure regulator to 2.5 PSI .
The clutch housing has been sealed off. I have drilled and taped a 1/8" NPT hole for a DOT fitting on the upper housing. This now vents out with the rest of the hoses. I'll take more pictures when I get the unit installed.

I like it. There's only one concern that I see. The clutch fording plug. The first bobber I bought had the plug installed. Unknown to me, it had a leaking rear main seal. On the highway drive home, it began slipping due to the "oil bath". If you're going to be in the habit of leaving it plugged, I'd be a little concerned. (again this is just my experience) A quick and effective work around would be replacing the plug with an adapter, then adding a normally open solenoid to it. Then wire that into your switch. Would prevent all the issues.

 

[Floridianson]

I like to keep things simple so I would not have gone electric selenoids just an air switch that dumps when air is not needed. Same with the clutch plug just put a ball valve there and close it before you ford and open when done fording. Thought you were to loose the fan belt before fording and do a walk around check before entering the water so close the ball valve then. Also seems like you going to have to take the time to do something with the road draft tube. Never rush into fording as no break downs can happen in deep water. I trust manual not electric stuff.

 

[Another Ahab]

I like to keep things simple so I would not have gone electric selenoids just an air switch that dumps when air is not needed. Same with the clutch plug just put a ball valve there and close it before you ford and open when done fording. Thought you were to loose the fan belt before fording and do a walk around check before entering the water so close the ball valve then. Also seems like you going to have to take the time to do something with the road draft tube. Never rush into fording as no break downs can happen in deep water. I trust manual not electric stuff.

It can't hurt either to make a check list (maybe even mount it on the dash) of "steps to take prior to fording":

- You ever hear the story behind the B-17 and its initial development?

If I'm not mistaken that's where the idea of a "check-list" first started.

 

[Another Ahab]

You ever hear the story behind the B-17 and its initial development?

If I'm not mistaken that's where the idea of a "check-list" first started.

I had to look it up myself to refresh my memory:

- Here you go; here's the link to the story

http://www.flyaoamedia.com/aoa/what-the-b17-taught-us-about-checklists/
​

 

[rustystud]

I like it. There's only one concern that I see. The clutch fording plug. The first bobber I bought had the plug installed. Unknown to me, it had a leaking rear main seal. On the highway drive home, it began slipping due to the "oil bath". If you're going to be in the habit of leaving it plugged, I'd be a little concerned. (again this is just my experience) A quick and effective work around would be replacing the plug with an adapter, then adding a normally open solenoid to it. Then wire that into your switch. Would prevent all the issues.

I did think about that. What I decided to do was add "check clutch drain plug" to my maintenance checklist. So when I do my normal lube and maintenance checks I would also remove the plug and check for any oil.

 

[rustystud]

I like to keep things simple so I would not have gone electric selenoids just an air switch that dumps when air is not needed. Same with the clutch plug just put a ball valve there and close it before you ford and open when done fording. Thought you were to loose the fan belt before fording and do a walk around check before entering the water so close the ball valve then. Also seems like you going to have to take the time to do something with the road draft tube. Never rush into fording as no break downs can happen in deep water. I trust manual not electric stuff.

I won't be loosening the fan belts as I will be eliminating the fan and going with two 11" electric fans I have. This way I can just turn off the fans with the same solenoid switch. I also would love to have a "manual" activated valve but I could not find any for what I needed. If you know of a source I would love to hear it. Since I haven't installed anything yet I still can change things now.
The whole purpose behind my thinking on the Fording system was to make it as simple as possible meaning just hit the switch and turn on the regulator and go. That way when I was out and about and came across a stream that needed crossing I wouldn't forget anything like closing a valve and cause a whole lot of trouble for myself.
Today was a good day to work on the truck but my well house had different ideas ! The stupid tank switch stuck and the pump filled the whole well house to a depth of 8" ! I since have replaced the switch but I'm working on a drain system so that if this ever happens again the water will drain out of the well house and let me know that the switch has stuck.
Of course tomorrow is going to rain like usual !
I forgot to mention the draft tube. That is going to go back to the air intake. Kind of like the modern PVC valve. I already bought a long flexible poly hose for it. I will be adding a catchment system for the oil. Think air system "Ping" tank. That way it can be drained on regular inspections.

 

[Another Ahab]

I won't be loosening the fan belts as I will be eliminating the fan and going with two 11" electric fans I have. This way I can just turn off the fans with the same solenoid switch. I also would love to have a "manual" activated valve but I could not find any for what I needed. If you know of a source I would love to hear it. Since I haven't installed anything yet I still can change things now.
The whole purpose behind my thinking on the Fording system was to make it as simple as possible meaning just hit the switch and turn on the regulator and go. That way when I was out and about and came across a stream that needed crossing I wouldn't forget anything like closing a valve and cause a whole lot of trouble for myself.
Today was a good day to work on the truck but my well house had different ideas ! The stupid tank switch stuck and the pump filled the whole well house to a depth of 8" ! I since have replaced the switch but I'm working on a drain system so that if this ever happens again the water will drain out of the well house and let me know that the switch has stuck.
Of course tomorrow is going to rain like usual !
I forgot to mention the draft tube. That is going to go back to the air intake. Kind of like the modern PVC valve. I already bought a long flexible poly hose for it. I will be adding a catchment system for the oil. Think air system "Ping" tank. That way it can be drained on regular inspections.

That's sort of funny, rustystud, that while you're working on the problem of fording deep water, you get deepwater down at the well house.

I mean, it's funny way over HERE. You're not doing any laughing, I know.

People, perhaps we're just naturally cruel. Or maybe it's just ME.

(I hope everything cleans up okay).

 

[VPed]

Maybe these might help:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Air-Pn...-Air-Valves/3-WAY-MANUAL-AIR-VALVE-4-1814.axd

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...-STEEL-5880-PSI-3-WAY-BALL-VALVE-9-8595-4.axd
This site has a lot of stuff including 24 vdc stuff like linear actuators, regular and gear motors, etc.

 

[Floridianson]

Rusty the air switch on the Deuces dumps excess air and the safety type air switch for the drop axles dumps excess air when off. You better get us some pic on the Fording when you do it.