Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Yup all NP205's had PTO ability. As for an update, project was finished in the late summer, the owner of the truck loves his lower first gear and the overdrive, "70 is a lot quitter" he told me a few weeks after I completed it. He also likes the NP205 for its strength and the PTO option. He hasn't installed is PTO yet, said he is waiting for warmer weather. @akonitony: yes the 700r4's are not beefy but with a few upgrades they can handle a decent amount of HP going through, besides how many guys are running more than 500 HP in there daily drivers.......not many. As far as the 700r4(4L60E) they are Identical except for the "E" means the computer controls shifts. The 4L65E internals (hard parts, clutches, shafts etc.) can be put into a 700r4, this combo allows for a very beefy trans with out having to use the computer to control it, the valve body from the 700r4 it used to control it. Also what I like about the 700r4's is there are 100's of thousands of these everywhere so there cheap, most can be bought for $100 to $200, and for another $400-600 it can handle 300-400HP.
I think the turbo 400's were rated for 15,000 GCVW, and 350 HP, so the 6.2 and the trailer your towing shouldn't break the trans, I think you will be fine. My dad had a 454 with the turbo 400 and we pulled over 20,000 GCVW (truck, trailer and load) all the time with out any issues.
Ya I had to grind off about 1 inch, I tried to use the sawzall and a carbide tip blade but that didn't work so I used my angle grinder. Also had to use a 2 inch spacer that I got from A & Reds .
In my experience, it seems TH400s usually go out gradually, and it is usually burned up steels (each clutch pack has frictions and steels, and the frictions are the clutch material with the steels acting as pressure plates). TH400s are notorious for being hard on their steels. I always replace the steels with new ones no matter how wonderful the old ones look. The two main upgrades I recommend on these units are a dual-direct-feed upgrade, which modifies the center support in case the trans is subjected to RPMs in excess of 5500 and a pressure leak may develop without this mod that actually bleeds direct oil to the reverse piston, and will cause a serious bind, which with a diesel, probably will never happen, and the other mod is installing a shift kit that will correct early, soft shifts, which is another problem with these guys. Gil Younger makes a good one under the tradename Transgo. His kits are as good or better than the bigger names, and they are very reasonably priced. One other mod to make, especially for towing, is what I call the TH350 pump bearing mod. You take the torrington bearing that goes right behind the pump in a TH350, knock the rear case bushing on the TH400 you wish to build in just a little so the inside edge of it gives you a lip, then set that pump bearing in where the rear thrust washer used to go. Under heavy loads, the helical-cut planetary gears in TH400s will force the geartrain backwards and create pressure on that thrust washer, and eventually cause oil starvation. GM tried to fix this with straight cut gears back in the '60s, and a good set of those will set you back 500 clams easily, if you can find a set that is. The torrington bearing will also fix this problem since it is impossible to oil starve this type of bearing no matter what amount of pressure is against it. It also lowers friction quite a bit. This is very noticeable when you place the output shaft / ringgear assembly on top of it and turn it when comparing it to a unit built with the standard thrust washer back there. One other way to alleviate the condition is to size the backing plate for the thrust washer down a few sizes, as it is selective, and this will give extra endplay to the output shaft and make it harder to oil starve that washer. I'm a big believer in having the correct endplay set up, so I highly recommend the TH350 pump bearing thingy back there, and fix it and forget it.
While heat is the biggest enemy of a transmission, I think you might be going a little overboard with your $500 cooler. The main thing you want in an auxiliary cooler is for it to come in line after the radiator cooler has performed it's task as a liquid-medium cooler, you want the aux cooler to have enough GVWR under it's belt, and the tubing in it should have finning inside it to "stir" the trans fluid as it passes through. Hayden makes an excellent cooler, and you can probably find one for right around $100 or less.
I do not have any made right now, cost was $200, but materials have gone up. Cost is now $250 plus shipping.
Yes the bracket comes with linkage.
