Front Axle Step X Step

[Tinwoodsman]

I started my front axle service using Banshee365's PDF and everything went south in a hurry. I drained the differential and oil was the consistency of pancake batter. It was not brown so I am not sure about water. Once I removed the wheel hub I knew I was in trouble. There was oil contaminated by water and gobbs of grease. The bearings were pitted and I knew this would be one **** of a ride.

I worked my way through the steps and cleaned as I went. I will remove the first steering knuckle tomorrow and start on the other side. When I get that cleaned I will used my trusty new rod to remove the axle seal retainer. One final cleaning and the boot fun begins.

In preparation, I have these questions. Is there a gasket to go between the deflector and the spindle? I know the TM calls for a sealant but what is the right one? Also, when I preload the new bearings, do I used the same torgue specs and the rear axle?

Thanks, Oh, I am sorry there are no pictures but I was up to my ass**** in grease.

 

[Alredneck]

Man at least you are getting everything fixed and up to standard. All the pain will be replaced with warm fuzzys knowing you wont have to worry about the axle and brake parts failing in the near future. Its a lot of work but it needs to be done. I have a couple that could use some attention as well, along with others on here! Good Luck and happy wrenching!

 

[DieselBob]

In preparation, I have these questions. Is there a gasket to go between the deflector and the spindle?.

Per TM 9-2320-361-20, Sec 7-6, step #8, There is no gasket or sealant between the the two. Mine had no gasket or evidence of sealant when I disassembled it.

Also, when I preload the new bearings, do I used the same torgue specs and the rear axle?

Both are the same per TM 9-2320-361-20, sec 9-5, step 2
"2. Turn wheel, tighten inner adjusting nut (3) 50 lb-ft (68 NŽm), then back off nut (3) 1/16 to 1/4 turn"
"3. Install adjusting nut washer (2) and outer adjusting nut (1). Tighten nut (1) 100-200 lb-ft"
"4. Bend tabs on adjusting nut washer (2) down, over inner and outer adjusting nuts (3) and (1)."

 

[AceHigh]

TM 9-2320-361-20, sec 9-5, step 2
"2. Turn wheel, tighten inner adjusting nut (3) 50 lb-ft (68 NŽm), then back off nut (3) 1/16 to 1/4 turn"
"3. Install adjusting nut washer (2) and outer adjusting nut (1). Tighten nut (1) 100-200 lb-ft"
"4. Bend tabs on adjusting nut washer (2) down, over inner and outer adjusting nuts (3) and (1)."

Just a word of caution here, though. Even if you do it exactly as described, it can be off a little. Best to drive it 1 or 2 miles then check the temp of the hub. It should be the same as the rears at that point. If it is hot, go back in and re-do it.

Bearing pre-load can be a bear.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Thanks for the replies. Can you adjust the bearing preload with the wheel off or does it have to be on the hub? Also, what is the best sealant to used between the deflector and the spindle?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Preload can be adjusted with or without the tire in place. You do have to jack up the corner to do this. No need to seal the area between the deflector and spindle. Also, take your time and clean (thoroughly) the grooves the boot sits in. These have to be spotless clean and free of any grease or lube to ease install. Once everything is spotless clean, I go and wash my hands thoroughly before trying to install the boots. If using one piece boots, you will have to stretch them over the ball of the housing. Doing this will pick up some dirt or grease so reclean them as well.

 

[DieselBob]

I did my adjustment with the tire off. The important thing is that the hub is turning when you are doing the bearing torque. As AceHigh stated you need to check the hub temps after a short drive. I have to hubs on the rear running hot and I used the exact same procedure for all 6 hubs.

 

[DieselBob]

Also, take your time and clean (thoroughly) the grooves the boot sits in. These have to be spotless clean and free of any grease or lube to ease install. Once everything is spotless clean, I go and wash my hands thoroughly before trying to install the boots. If using one piece boots, you will have to stretch them over the ball of the housing. Doing this will pick up some dirt or grease so reclean them as well.

Great point. I cleaned the groove and boot thoroughly with brake kleen and "clean" rags. This made it very easy to install the inner clamp without the boot popping off.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Recovry4X4, I am glad you brought up the point about double cleaning and hand washing. I cleaned them so good I scrambled eggs in the steering knuckle this morning. I feel like Felix Unger.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Another question. Actually, I have many but let's concentrate on one. My axle u-joint is different from the axle photos in Banshee's Step X
Step. What's up with this?

 

[doghead]

Modern u-joints, some like them better.

 

[Clay James]

I just started this today and it's about time since there is gear oil pouring out of the boot. Hopefully I'll get it done tomorrow when I get the right wrench(thought I had a 3/4" drive for the 3" socket but it turns out I didn't). I'm not planning on using a torque wrench for the bearings, I've read how to do it by feel and my dad has lots of experience doing it that way so I'll have him show me.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Clay, why not just buy a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter for your socket wrench. It is cheaper and you will need it eventually.

 

[Clay James]

I thought that was in the tool box but it wasn't. The other ones where there but not the one I needed which is always how it goes

 

[Tinwoodsman]

While working on my front axle servicing and boot change, I wanted to pass on a tip I received from an old (and I do mean old) mechanic friend of mine. When it came time to remove the tie rod from the steering knuckles, I removed the cotter pin and castle nut and reversed the castle nut but did not tighten it down past the top of the tie rod bolt. Then I hit the end of the steering knuckle arm once with a BFH and then hit the castle nut. It came right off without a monster hit. Worth trying.

 

[roady]

I have used this tip as well and it worked good. Just got doing my front hubs and boots as well as flipping all the rear hubs. I also replaced all my wheel cylinders and seals. Cleaning everything up is 3/4 of the battle other then everything being so flipping heavy....... I used roughly 15lbs of new grease putting everything back together.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Yea, cleanup is a real bear. I think I now own stock in Bounty paper towels and CRC brake cleaner. In the end I will feel comfortable driving my grandkids knowing the job was done right.

 

[Clay James]

I tore my right front down the rest of the way today and I have the same axle and it doesn't look too old. Some of the brake hardware looks pretty new as well. I can't get the seal retainer out with the slide hammer so I guess I'll have to pull the other side apart and drive it out with a pipe. Cleaning is the most time consuming part so far.