Front end/Rear end Swap

[Ilikemtb999]

They look too long and your shocks are nearly bottomed out. Did you accidentally order shocks for a lift? couple that with old springs and thats what happens.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

They look too long and your shocks are nearly bottomed out. Did you accidentally order shocks for a lift? couple that with old springs and thats what happens.

Ordered them for an '84 K5... I checked and it said they were the same fit for a '90 V2500 Suburban, Chevy K10, and a few others...Maybe that's what I get for ordering from Advanced Auto Parts....

They look the same length as what I took out, just beefier...

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Then maybe the mounts are higher up on the new axle? Seems odd

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Nope I just looked again, mounts look just how they should. What's the part number on the shock?

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Can you measure from the u bolt plate and the bump stop?

 

[Ilikemtb999]

I remembered this from an old suspension thread from ORD

for ride height, the measurement we work from the most is measuring from top of axle tube to the bumpstop mount on the frame. we figure a stock truck is typically 8.5 to 9" so a 3" lift should end up around 12".

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Ill check in the morning when I start working on it again...

 

[PeeWeeQ]

I was WRONG. They looked the same size as the old REAR shocks...Problem solved. Checked with Rancho sizes and measured the ones that came off (what I should have done in the first place) and came up with RS5118s for the rear (what they told me I needed for the front) and RS5151s for the front.

After that fiasco, I realized ANOTHER thing I should have made sure I got from the 'burban--the rear U-joint straps. OOPS! That was fun finding those. Got a Moog set from NAPA. AND---I had both the Precision 447 U-joint and the Precision 348 (concluding that the 348 was the correct fit and hadn't taken back the 447 yet), and, without paying attention, installed the 447 u-joint--a perfect fit. I guess that means my driveline is actually 3R....???? Not that it really matters--I know what works...

Anyway, I got my U-bolts and plates from Off-Road design and got those in lickedy-split after finagling to get the rear end up and into place myself. I found that it was easier to do raising one side at a time.

After all that was done, I hooked up the brake lines (perfect match), connected the breather hoses, torqued everything down, zip-tied all of the e-brake cables out of the way (I'll deal with them in the spring), and put the tires back on the beast. First drive was excellent, except that I needed an alignment REALLY BAD. That was what I did yesterday. I also wasn't ready for how high she was going to rev on the highway. There maybe a TH700R4 swap in my future....

I'll post pics in the next couple of days and try to write up a summary of the experience with lessons learned. I also found a great video on Youtube that I wish I had found weeks ago that I will link to as well...Thanks for all the help from everyone!! Now on to my Gen 2 issues....

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Here are some pics... Synopsis on the way, and, here's the video link as well...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nM0RkXsFneA

 

[Recovry4x4]

Congrats on getting it done. I think that 10 bolt could be the Achilles heel of the M1009 and applaud you for disposing of it. With that said I am certain that at least one person will thoroughly disagree with me but that's alright.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Thanks, Recovry4x4…..I’m thinking the electrical system is the Achilles heal for laypeople and DIYers… But, I do agree that this will be a welcomed upgrade…

Anyway, as far as a synopses goes, one can just follow through the thread to see how I did it. I guess I’ll just sum up some highlights of what I learned (in no particular order)…

1. Make sure you get the spring plates and U-bolts from the original donor.
2. If you are going to put new shocks on too, measure your old ones first.
3. Make sure you have the donor vehicle’s u-joint straps and bolts, too (if you intend to use the yokes on the donated front/rear ends)--not real expensive or hard to find, but, one less thing to deal with.
4. On that last note, I’d plan on cutting the old U-bolts off (just my opinion, of course)--you’ll save LOTS of time, headaches, sore forearms, and bruised knuckles. If you go to a 14-bolt in the rear, you can’t use them anyway...OH--and don’t buy the Harbor Freight electric impact gun, thinking it will help you out--WORTHLESS P.O.S...
5. PLAN on having an alignment done immediately upon finishing (yes, I did plan on it--just reiterating the point).
6. Your speedo is going to be off (roughly 20%, in my case) and will vary by tire size and gear ratio. Have a plan to get it taken care of or to deal with it.
7. Make sure you have adequate jack stands (concerning both height and weight capacity--standard 3-ton jacks aren’t big enough)
8. Those little mover dollies from Harbor Freight are EXCELLENT for moving your front/rear ends around (see pics).
9. This is a good time to upgrade/replace/add leaf springs, suspension, and steering components if you want/need to. Plan on some time to give those things a once-over and order parts ahead of time.

I think that’s it...Sorry it took so long to get this promised post in here. It’s running great (other than my electrical troubles chronicled on another thread) and I feel like I have lots more snuff and I’m pretty sure I’m even getting better fuel economy than before (I haven’t actually run the numbers yet).

 

[Ilikemtb999]

You can do your own alignments very easily FYI. I've been doing mine for a while now and even took up an offer for a "free alignment check" when I got my old 33's installed a while back and it was spot on.


i use a piece of 1/2" conduit inside a piece of 3/4" and use a 3/4" coupler with one of the screws replaced with a wing bolt. Then just measure front to back till it's the same.


I need to work on getting my speedo closer to where it needs to be. It was already off before and now it'll be worse with the larger tires and steeper gearing.