Front right blinker not blinking

[Jeff MD]

Strange issue. The front right parking light works, but the front right blinker doesn't. I replaced the pod as there was some water in the pod, but that didn't do it. Tried new bulbs as well. The right rear blinker works fine as well as both the left ones.

Any ideas where to start?

 

[papakb]

Since the signals come thru the hood harness connector I think this would be a good place to start your troubleshooting.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Any ideas where to start?
[/QUOTE]

Keep making left hand turns till you get where you want to be........

Couldn't resist LOL. Follow the print given. CAMO

 

[ahowell9]

Strange issue. The front right parking light works, but the front right blinker doesn't. I replaced the pod as there was some water in the pod, but that didn't do it. Tried new bulbs as well. The right rear blinker works fine as well as both the left ones.

Any ideas where to start?

Had similar problem.

Strange issue. The front right parking light works, but the front right blinker doesn't. I replaced the pod as there was some water in the pod, but that didn't do it. Tried new bulbs as well. The right rear blinker works fine as well as both the left ones.

Any ideas where to start?

Had a similar problem. I had my grounding wire running connected to the wrong bolt. After connecting ground properly, it works like a charm

 

[Jeff MD]

Had similar problem.

Had a similar problem. I had my grounding wire running connected to the wrong bolt. After connecting ground properly, it works like a charm

Which bolt was it on?

 

[Jeff MD]

Since the signals come thru the hood harness connector I think this would be a good place to start your troubleshooting.

View attachment 839408

thank you sir

 

[Milcommoguy]

Plastic Lamp Housings / Buckets ????

If running the plastic lamp housings one must provide a connection to BOTH mounting bolts. There is a two hole strap like thin backing plate to make the electrical connection for both bolts with the one ground wire. Without it, crazy ground returns will make lamp work all wonkie, pulling out hair and naughty words to fly.

Strap must be clean, rust free, nice & shiny bolts or WTH, D#$5*8# Stupid F@#*?? Thing.

Just saying, CAMO

 

[Jeff MD]

Plastic Lamp Housings / Buckets ????

If running the plastic lamp housings one must provide a connection to BOTH mounting bolts. There is a two hole strap like thin backing plate to make the electrical connection for both bolts with the one ground wire. Without it, crazy ground returns will make lamp work all wonkie, pulling out hair and naughty words to fly.

Strap must be clean, rust free, nice & shiny bolts or WTH, D#$5*8# Stupid F@#*?? Thing.

Just saying, CAMO

Yeah, it is the plastic housing. Just checked it and it does have the nice shiney strap across both bolts. Now to start tracing the wires starting at the harness hood connector.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Just for fun... Is this a new to you rig and did it ever work? You have the print so should be easy, well the grelems can hide pretty good. Things to watch out for are the connectors swapped in the splicing box (behind the metal plate) Would be fun to see a picture or two...TOO.

Always wondering what others are up against with wacky electrical problems. Let us know if you catch a gremlin alive.

Willing to help, but mostly a guessing game from a distance, CAMO

 

[Jeff MD]

I will get some pictures tomorrow behind the plate. Yeah, this is a new rig direct from govplanet. The turn signal never worked and I thought it might have been something in the housing as it had water in it. I replaced the housing and it has the same issue with the turn signal, the parking light works as well as the blackout light.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Sounds like you working it out with logic. With print in hand, checking wire numbers tags and keeping "EYES" on the prize you should have it. Good place to jump in is at the connector with a simple 24 volt test light (been over this tool a zillion times) or multimeter. Set up switches and levers to make that right hand turn and with print check at connector. (Is the rear a blinking? right)

Next to impossible to read the print. The wire in question #460 at the RIGHT turn lamp and at connector pin "F" should be the one. Remember it will be on / off voltage. Note: wires 460 goes to 460 for right.

My next best cheap tool is a six foot test lead, alligator clips on each end. One could connect it to the 24 volt side of battery and test the lamp leads and lamps in the bucket to be sure. NOT the ground ZAP POP SPARK.

You should be on the RIGHT course soon, CAMO

The TOOLS: note bulb changed to a 24 Volt type. Road map for HumV. LOL

 

[Jeff MD]

Fixed it. Turns out it was the blinker module. I had to wait for the part to confirm. Your wiring diagram was awesome in tracking that down. Thanks!

Sounds like you working it out with logic. With print in hand, checking wire numbers tags and keeping "EYES" on the prize you should have it. Good place to jump in is at the connector with a simple 24 volt test light (been over this tool a zillion times) or multimeter. Set up switches and levers to make that right hand turn and with print check at connector. (Is the rear a blinking? right)

Next to impossible to read the print. The wire in question #460 at the RIGHT turn lamp and at connector pin "F" should be the one. Remember it will be on / off voltage. Note: wires 460 goes to 460 for right.

My next best cheap tool is a six foot test lead, alligator clips on each end. One could connect it to the 24 volt side of battery and test the lamp leads and lamps in the bucket to be sure. NOT the ground ZAP POP SPARK.

You should be on the RIGHT course soon, CAMO

The TOOLS: note bulb changed to a 24 Volt type. Road map for HumV. LOL

View attachment 839440

 

[Ajax MD]

@papakb Can I please get the link to the M998 wiring diagram? I cannot seem to find it in any of the tech pubs listed on this forum.
I did find the complete M1123 wiring diagram but I'm not sure if that's close enough?

I've discovered that my driver's (left) rear turn signal does not flash. Also, if the left turn signal is on, the left brake light will not illuminate when you step on the pedal. If no signal is turned on, then the left brake light illuminates so it's not the "bright" element in the bulb.

There's obviously some sort of short between the rear left turn signal and the brake light wiring for the rear driver's bucket.

 

[JetbikeAnt]

@papakb Can I please get the link to the M998 wiring diagram? I cannot seem to find it in any of the tech pubs listed on this forum.
I did find the complete M1123 wiring diagram but I'm not sure if that's close enough?

I've discovered that my driver's (left) rear turn signal does not flash. Also, if the left turn signal is on, the left brake light will not illuminate when you step on the pedal. If no signal is turned on, then the left brake light illuminates so it's not the "bright" element in the bulb.

There's obviously some sort of short between the rear left turn signal and the brake light wiring for the rear driver's bucket.

The technical schematics are at the very end of Technical Manual #3 I believe. And they cover all Trucks. They are also available here. Look at the Pinned Topics.

 

[Ajax MD]

The technical schematics are at the very end of Technical Manual #3 I believe. And they cover all Trucks. They are also available here. Look at the Pinned Topics.

Perfect, I found it. Thanks.

 

[Ajax MD]

Whew, this is fun. I'd be screwed without the diagram.

Ok, there's a short to ground on the turn signal wiring where it goes back to the driver's rear composite light. I've figured that much out.
This prevents the rear driver's brake light from lighting when the left turn signal is on because it's the same wire.

Possible causes:
Defective 3-lever switch
Defective turn signal switch
Defect inside the composite fixture itself or the wiring of it.

From the t/s switch: Wire B goes to the front driver's t/s indicator. Wire C goes to the rear driver's t/s/brake indicator in the tail composite light fixture. Since the front is unaffected, Wire C is shorting somehow. Could be inside the switch, could be somewhere else.

Usually these failures happen on the ends of the wires.

 

[Jeff MD]

Also check the flasher unit. I thought at first my switch was it and turned out it was the flasher unit under the dash. Here it is for example.

24V MILITARY VEHICLE FLASHER

Enhance the visibility and safety of your military tactical vehicle with the 24V Military Vehicle Flasher. Built to withstand harsh conditions, this durable and versatile accessory is compatible with all types of lighting and ensures reliable operation. Invest today for peace of mind in any...

midwestmilitaryequipment.com

 

[Ajax MD]

I replaced the flasher fairly recently.

I swapped the turn signal switch from my 5-ton over the HMMWV and the driver's rear signal worked correctly so the t/s switch in the HMMWV is the culprit.
Edit: Why the heck are those NARTRON switches so friggin' expensive? Mine didn't even have the self-canceling stubs on it.

 

[Milcommoguy]

I replaced the flasher fairly recently.

I swapped the turn signal switch from my 5-ton over the HMMWV and the driver's rear signal worked correctly so the t/s switch in the HMMWV is the culprit.
Edit: Why the heck are those NARTRON switches so friggin' expensive? Mine didn't even have the self-canceling stubs on it.

Rolling into a Mcdonalds for a $10 dollar burger in the HumV...

Think they saw me coming, CAMO

 

[JetbikeAnt]

Whew, this is fun. I'd be screwed without the diagram.

Ok, there's a short to ground on the turn signal wiring where it goes back to the driver's rear composite light. I've figured that much out.
This prevents the rear driver's brake light from lighting when the left turn signal is on because it's the same wire.

Possible causes:
Defective 3-lever switch
Defective turn signal switch
Defect inside the composite fixture itself or the wiring of it.

From the t/s switch: Wire B goes to the front driver's t/s indicator. Wire C goes to the rear driver's t/s/brake indicator in the tail composite light fixture. Since the front is unaffected, Wire C is shorting somehow. Could be inside the switch, could be somewhere else.

Usually these failures happen on the ends of the wires.

Could be a chaffed wire. Get your meter out and check continuity to ground working backwards from the signal. Meters are our best friend and don't lie.