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Fuel polishing

cranetruck

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I have been looking for ways to clean up the fuel to the multifuel engine and ran into this image, an M1 Abrams with a fuel "polishing" system. Can anybody elaborate on this?
Thanks.

PS. I'm suspecting that dirty fuel from old fuel tanks is causing some of our FDC and IP problems...
 

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sprucemt

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AMSOIL / DAHL Diesel Fuel Filter / Water Separators



For Diesel and Marine Diesel Engines Up to 200HP
ADF-10 and ADF-11
Flow Rates (Single ADF-10 and ADF-11 Series) Recommended: 40 GPH (U.S.) (151 LPH) Maximum: 65 GPH (U.S.) (246 LPH) Specifications Flow Resistance: 0.75 in. Mercury @ 40 GPH Maximum Working Pressure: 25 PSI (172 kPa) Temperature Range: -50° to +225°F (-45 to +107C) Port Thread: 9/16-18 w/O-Ring Boss Height: 12-1/2 in. (317.5 mm) Width: 5-1/2 in. (139.7 mm) Depth: 6-1/2 in. (165.1 mm) Element Removal Clearance: 1-1/2 in. (38.1 mm) Sump Capacity: 8 oz. (236 ml)
Service Parts Elements
* Standard With Unit
DE-10* 2 Micron Element DE-11 10 Micron Element Recommended Service Interval: 500 hours or 20,000 miles
 

emmado22

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I've never seen a unit like that... M1 Abrams Tanks burn thru 500 gallons in 8 hours durring combat/training, and "old" fuel isnt a problem... If fuel cells somehow got crudded up, they get replaced with new ones. No "washing out" of old ones...
 

THEROAD

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Fuel polishing is common on larger boats. Lots of diesel sits for years. Companies sell the service of pumping your fuel through a bank of filters. In theory it works; practice is another matter. In boats large fuel tanks have many baffles to keep fuel from shifting as the boat rolls. Unless they cut a bunch if holes in the tank the crud never gets picked up. The other problem it flow rate has to be very high to have any hope of stirring things up. As far as I am concerned fuel polishing is pretty much a waste of money. With boats as with deuces not all of the fuel is burnt and returned to the tank. In real life use cleans up the fuel.Plus remember you got the fuel sloshing around. Just invest in a case of filters. I know been there done that. I bought a 35 Bertram with 3208 Cats and very dirty fuel. I had to change racors about every ten hours for first couple tanks of fuel. Changing filters at sea in rough conditions is lots of fun; but after three tanks of fuel no problems since. At 25 gallons an hour it did not take long. That was 5 years ago.
 
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cranetruck

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I'm more concerned about hard particles, rust in particular and thought perhaps that the Abrams image had something to do with dust (sand) in the fuel....
Thanks for responding.
 

Bill W

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Pretty much what road said
My competition was dockside filter rigs like pictured.
My setup was a 2000gal tank truck which I used to pump all the fuel out and then flush the garbage out of the now empty tank, using wands to snake through the limber holes in the baffles, flushing the tank at 28 gpm through a set of 10micron ( CimTec ) filters mounted in my truck and then a final filtration through a 1 micron ( Parker ) filter which was rated at 27gpm. Flushing/filtering the fuel is a waste of time if you can't get the tank itself clean, kinda like taking a shower and putting dirty cloths back on.
 

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dabtl

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I think we are on the same page with the rust particulates. I kind of view rust particulates in diesel fuel as very similar to the addition of aluminum particulates to diesel fuel and fertilizer. Bang! It seems to me the rust particulates could cause a much more intense reaction in the combustion chamber, already at a high compression rate, serious enough to damage or destroy the engine.

Rust in the deuce tank going through three filters might not be so bad IF the filter cans were not rusty also. Those rusty filter cans give me the willy's at times.

I'm more concerned about hard particles, rust in particular and thought perhaps that the Abrams image had something to do with dust (sand) in the fuel....
Thanks for responding.
 

cranetruck

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Abrams tanks have plastic fuel cells.
That's a good thing, Mark. Dust and dirt can still get mixed in with the fuel in a desert environment and be very abrasive to nozzles and whatever, especially at high flow rates.


I'm 99% certain that my FDC and IP problems were caused by tiny rust particles from the old second hand fuel tank, which has lost a lot of it's original inside plating.
We are talking metal to metal lapped surfaces here and a hard particle in the fuel will scratch that finish and cause the FDC to leak and possibly the IP plunger to stick.

The steel filter canister problem is another good point, also mentioned by dabtl I believe....
 

cranetruck

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The term "fuel polishing" may have it's own meaning and be misleading here, I'm simply interested in getting rid of the micron sized hard particles. Anybody ever used a magnetic type filter?

You know that fuel filtering is critical for the FDC and IP on the multifuel engine, in the sixties, what other engines used 3 stages of fuel filtration?
 

dabtl

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Yikes, now it is worse than I had thought! But, I wonder if I could not just tape a magnet to the side of a filter can to achieve the rust removal? It would probably not catch all of it, but perhaps a large amount? Perhaps with spin on filters you could do the same, but toss the entire canister out and save the magnet?

And, what might be a 'magnetic type' filter? I had never heard of that before.
 

WillWagner

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The same thing that THEROAD said in done in generators too. Like the BIG stand by ones.
 

cranetruck

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Thanks Don, can you specify a particular filter? I know that rust particle(s) got thru the 3 standard filters and scored the FDC plunger enough to cause it to leak on my deuce. Images of the plunger were posted some time in the past and the metal to metal seal did no longer do its job.
 

dabtl

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I looked up the filte mags, they sure want a high price for them!

Then I looked up the Dahl filters, a good idea also, but with the aging of these filter cans, rust would by pass the Dahl filter set up PRIOR to the primary filter it would seem.

The ideal solution might be the Dahl filter installed prior to the primary filter and spin on filters replacing entirely the stock filter cans.

I had figured on working out the rust problem in the filter cans prior to cleaning out the fuel tank. I give myself a kind of next summer time line on all of this.
 

sprucemt

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Thanks Don, can you specify a particular filter? I know that rust particle(s) got thru the 3 standard filters and scored the FDC plunger enough to cause it to leak on my deuce. Images of the plunger were posted some time in the past and the metal to metal seal did no longer do its job.

We are talking microns, right? So particles less than 2 microns are in your system?
 

sprucemt

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I looked up the filte mags, they sure want a high price for them!

Then I looked up the Dahl filters, a good idea also, but with the aging of these filter cans, rust would by pass the Dahl filter set up PRIOR to the primary filter it would seem.

The ideal solution might be the Dahl filter installed prior to the primary filter and spin on filters replacing entirely the stock filter cans.

I had figured on working out the rust problem in the filter cans prior to cleaning out the fuel tank. I give myself a kind of next summer time line on all of this.

Where is the rust coming from, the tank or the filter housing?
 

dabtl

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My experience is limited to four deuces only. All others may be completely different, though I doubt it.

Each of the four has had a dirty fuel tank. Algae, perhaps rust also as they seem to go hand in hand, in possibly some quantity in the bottom. When I see algae, I see water also. That probably is where the rust forms in the tank.

When I changed the fuel filters, each and everyone had rust and goo in all of the filter cans. I cleaned it as well as I could, initially. But, the more I thought about it, more rust has to form over time and I began thinking about how to stop the rust because it has to be a problem over time. That is when the jatonka spin on primary came to mind. In a short time the first rust source in the filters was eliminated. Now, I worry about the secondary filter cans. They will rust again unless they are 1) replaced with new cans which will eventually rust also; 2) sand blasted and perhaps powder coated to retard the rust coming back or the secondary fuel filters get replaced with either spin on adapters or completely replaced with another kind of filter holder with spin on filters.

Looking at aftermarket filter set ups they appear mostly to be in the above $500 price range.

So, the decision is to either purchase one of the after market kits or find an alternative, it would appear.

It will do little good to clean the fuel tank if the filter cans produce rust also.
 
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