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Functional wheel valve after CTIS removal (?)

gringeltaube

gringeltaube

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coachgeo said:
Moderator feel free to split my post starting at # 28 on thru this..... off into another thread all on its own.
Click to expand...
FYI, the stock FMTV valve stem is a HALTEC #AMG-4, shown here.... (Not to be confused with the Schrader large bore valves!)
Specs- and possible solutions were discussed in this thread...

Maybe better to post your questions there, or eventually start a new thread about it. Then I would move (some) posts over, in order to keep this one more "on-topic"
 
coachgeo

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gringeltaube said:
I'm not sure if the CH-360-1 clip-on chuck will work on the AMG-4 valve (?) In the Haltec catalog it's listed under "Standard Bore Air Chucks".
Click to expand...
1.5 people so far have said it works for them. (0.5 is because one of them had what looks like same thing on a device they purchased and robbed it from that device)

I still feel the internal Monkey Jack; IFFFF it will thread into standard valve core threaded tube) is the better route for it avoids the whole chuck issue altogether AND you can then put a valve cap on it to keep junk out.... which far as I know.... you can not do at all when one goes the route w/out Monkey Jack
 
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chucky

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coachgeo said:
yes no

the MonkeyJack described here IS what is needed to use a regular air chuck..

or get special air chuck like below one a user said worked for them. This is IFFF you dont plan to use anyone elses air hose (or keep adapters around so you can adapt between different hoses.) Tis why I like the Monkey Jack. allows for regular air chuck

Amazon.com: Haltec CH-360-1 Clip-On Air Chuck : Automotive

Buy Haltec CH-360-1 Clip-On Air Chuck: Tire Chucks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Click to expand...
i bought 2 of those 2 weeks ago! maybe were talking about 2 differnt places . If you take the ctis line off at the wheel end then unscrew the next fitting so you can unscrew the bigger round piece tha looks like it will never unscrew from the vale stem . Once you get to brass you will see the stem sticking out of the rubber hose and your saying the monkey gadget screws onto that brass nipple with the threads not starting untill 1/4 inch down the stem and that piece your showinf with the brass point sticking out of the end of it that i can put a chuck on that monkey piece?????? confused yet ? lol
 
coachgeo

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chucky said:
i bought 2 of those 2 weeks ago! maybe were talking about 2 differnt places . If you take the ctis line off at the wheel end then unscrew the next fitting so you can unscrew the bigger round piece tha looks like it will never unscrew from the vale stem . Once you get to brass you will see the stem sticking out of the rubber hose and your saying the monkey gadget screws onto that brass nipple with the threads not starting untill 1/4 inch down the stem and that piece your showinf with the brass point sticking out of the end of it that i can put a chuck on that monkey piece?????? confused yet ? lol
Click to expand...
there is internal threads too from what has been reported thus the internal type Monkey Jack is best if that is true. Previous generation of that part number did have threads all the way up. at least one of Mine does if I recall right

curious.... does yours have internal threads?
 
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chucky

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coachgeo said:
there is internal threads too from what has been reported thus the internal type Monkey Jack is best if that is true. Previous generation of that part number did have threads all the way up. Mine does.

curious.... does yours have internal threads?
Click to expand...
yes has internal but my internal thread seems it would need a larger valve core
 
coachgeo

coachgeo

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chucky said:
yes has internal but my internal thread seems it would need a larger valve core
Click to expand...
another FMTV owner/user/builder that also works for Acela stated the valve core threading is deeper inside the tube. You need a valve core screwdriver to get down to it. https://www.amazon.com/GVX-Valve-Co...IE7EL1E/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B01IE7EL1E&psc=1

the threads your seeing are likely the ones used by the interior type Monkey Jack.... Granted that is the tube made for Hutchinson who makes the wheel. Maybe the Haltec has a slight design difference?
 
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coachgeo

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OK....... actual solution for when:

. you want to remove citis valves off of M1082 trailer to use on truck......

. if you get ctis leak issue (valve, kneeling elbow, hose leak etc.)

. Truck's wheel wheel ctis leak is so bad your engine compressor is going NUTS trying to compensate for the fast air loss. (this scenario will need a solid bolt to replace banjo bolt..... keep one on hand. It is a fine thread 5/8-18 X 1 1/2. There is suppose to be one in your spare tire.

. You are putting FMTV wheels on another axle that does NOT have CTIS


Basics-
. block axle so it cant drop as tire deflates (optional but smart)
. deflate tire by removing valve core from ctis valve. Protect core from flying away.. you are going to re-use it.
. remove valves, hoses etc. from wheel.
. use a Standard valve core in the ctis tube (rob it from ctis valve)
. Put solid bolt replacing OEM banjo bolt. bolt should be in your spare tire.... it is 5/8-18 X 1 1/2 (fine thread) (not needed on trailer delete)
. use a PLASTIC valve stem extender as your means to fit a standard air chuck for airing up/down

Details-This is what I have done successfully now on a trailer. YMMV

On tire(s) dealing with today.. TW0 of my Wheel's metal air tube; aka Schrader Valve stems (one from a 1078 truck... one from a M1082 trailer) both are ones that look same as picture linked below, both no external threads first 3/8? inch. Also on both; the standard automotive Valve core screwed in tightly but was not deep like Acela said. Difference may be manufacture of the Schrader Valve . The Hutchinson version (who makes the wheel both aluminum and steel) Im guessing is the one with deeper into the tubes valve core threads found on some FMTV wheels . Guessing this is the Schrader Valve stem Oshkosh sells. Must have been what is on the trucks the Acela employee came across often. That is who told me about the deep recessed valve cores. Maybe mine are a Haltec tube and theirs Oskosh?

Haltec version


As others noted though...... Now an air chuck wont fit.. unless you get a special one (Haltec chuck mentioned in earlier post) BUT--

TADA: FOUND INEXPENSIVE SOLUTION that makes standard chuck fit without need for uncommon chuck and it only cost two bucks.
IMG_20210821_182518.jpg
take one of the above and "TEMPORARILY" force fit / screw it on. It's soft-ish plastic so it threads a little in place. Doubt it would stay with driving as I can pull it off without too much effort. Yet... it still goes on just enough to work for filling the tire with a standard air chuck. AND...... was able to unscrew and screw it back on several times and it still stayed on enough to fill the tire with air. The chuck also will stay on the extender as you go about what every you have to do (put up tools??) that is of course if it is a clampish on-ish type chuck.

PROBLEM SOLVED.....
 
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Mullaney

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coachgeo said:
Just doing update. On tire dealing with today.. It has metal air tube that looks same as previous picture, aka no external threads first 3/8? inch.

Valve stem screwed in tightly but was not deep at all as had assumed by what had read (posted above) .

As other post state though.. Now an air chuck wont fit.. unless you get a special one (Haladex chuck) BUT-- FOUND INEXPENSIVE SOLUTION that makes standard chuck fit.
View attachment 843053
take one of the above and "TEMPORARILY" force fit / screw it on. Its plastic so it threads a little in place. Doubt it would stay with driving as I can pull it off without too much effort. Yet... it still goes on just enough to work for filling the tire. The chuck will stay on it as you go about what every you have to do (put up tools??) that is of course if it is a clampish on-ish type chuck.
Click to expand...
.
That would be a cheap, small, easy to store thing to have in the truck toolbox for sure.
Just in case you ever needed it...
 
Mullaney

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coachgeo said:
uh...... also small enough to easily lose aua :eek:.... paint them bright yellow:unsure:rofl?
Click to expand...
.
That's one idea. Paint could definitely work.

I use a Ziploc bag for things like that. I have an assortment of tire valve cores, replacement caps, and a few other small parts that I keep packaged that way. I have a piece of cardboard that fits the bag (to make it bigger). The valve cores fit into the corrugated since they are so tiny.

Just for CYA purposes, I add a second bag over the first - just to keep from losing small parts if the bag gets a hole in it.
 
coachgeo

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chucky said:
maybe just cut/grind the unthreaded part of the stem down to the threads and find whatever sise cap to protect the schrader
Click to expand...
might work for one stem but not for another. The Hutchinson/Oshkosh? stem maybe...... Seems their valve core 's threads allows for core to install much deeper down the tube.... while other stems the threading for the valve core starts at the top (Haldtec?) thusly the valve core does not end up fully inside the tube.
 
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coachgeo

coachgeo

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gringeltaube said:
FYI, the stock FMTV valve stem is a HALTEC #AMG-4, shown here.... ....
Click to expand...
Not sure on this. Acela fellow swears they had a full run of wheels that were NOT the ones you point out.

anyway...... below is/was at least at one point the OEM Schrader valve made by Haltec @gringeltaube pointed to and appears to be what was on the two wheels Ive dealt with so far. Got a third wheel to deal with soon and will report back what I find.

..... here it is on their website

www.haltec.com

Standard Bore Double Bend Turret Valve

www.haltec.com
 
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coachgeo

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ok... so now..... since the valve core on the two I've done do NOT end up deep in the tube.... but actually the push pin for fill/release air is slightly exposed....

CtisSchrd&VlvCore.jpg

Thus...... need a cover to prevent unintentional pin push ..... yet a standard "metal" Schrader valve cap does not fit..... so what to do....

1. it has been "reported"...(sic) a plastic schrader valve stem cap can sorta be forced to fit similar to my valve extension hack ( eeekkkk "reported" has screwed me many times though; as the follies of this thread expose, sooooo try at your own risk)

2. thread 'with a tap, the end of the stem that does not have threads to match a common to find acorn nut. (the diameter of the tube is different OD as used for a valve stem cap is my understanding.... otherwise id say thread it for that.... but hey......... try it and report back in here!!!

3. using spacers..... take the citis valve mount plate and its nuts you removed.... along with home brewed spacers; put plate on necessary beadlock ring bolts to cover the thing. Would be a PITA to remove it to release/fill air....... but it can't accidentally get pin pushed and air released either. Maybe drill an access hole?
CtisSchrd&VlvCover.jpg
 
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coachgeo

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Well this is interesting. Found on a 1994 M1079/ but not released to military (from Sealy?) till 97.

This particular truck had Ctis removed from one rear wheel. It held air this way for two known years.. Maybe more before that. A bolt is in there to replace Banjo bolt.. It is also wrapped with electrical tape.. But bolt has not been removed to see if that bolt is solid or?? Also could be that it is solid but tape was just added hopeful precautionary measure.

Observation that adds to all the confusion is; its.. Schrader's valve stem is THREADED ALL WAY TO THE TIP


UPDATE- 12:00 noon

HMMM....... maybe posted too early... upon further inspection with a magnifying glass in bad lighting (shadows in the hole) ..... this too; like the banjo bolt, may be hacked.... it might have something epoxied to the end of the Schrader's stem..... and it is this piece that is threaded. will report back someday.. This wheel is not getting broke down anytime soon.
 

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chucky

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coachgeo said:
ok... so now..... since the valve core on the two I've done do NOT end up deep in the tube.... but actually the push pin for fill/release air is slightly exposed....

View attachment 843225

Thus...... need a cover to prevent unintentional pin push ..... yet a standard "metal" Schrader valve cap does not fit..... so what to do....

1. it has been "reported"...(sic) a plastic schrader valve stem cap can sorta be forced to fit similar to my valve extension hack ( eeekkkk "reported" has screwed me many times though; as the follies of this thread expose, sooooo try at your own risk)

2. thread 'with a tap, the end of the stem that does not have threads to match a common to find acorn nut. (the diameter of the tube is different OD as used for a valve stem cap is my understanding.... otherwise id say thread it for that.... but hey......... try it and report back in here!!!

3. using spacers..... take the citis valve mount plate and its nuts you removed.... along with home brewed spacers; put plate on necessary beadlock ring bolts to cover the thing. Would be a PITA to remove it to release/fill air....... but it can't accidentally get pin pushed and air released either. Maybe drill an access hole?
View attachment 843226
Click to expand...
Hell your close enough ! now just put a thread gauge on the brass to see what sise / mm or in then tap a piece of brass to be your cap !A few minutes in the brass section at lowes will probably produce what you/we need !
 
chucky

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coachgeo said:
Well this is interesting. Found on a 1994 M1079/ but not released to military (from Sealy?) till 97.

This particular truck had Ctis removed from one rear wheel. It held air this way for two known years.. Maybe more before that. A bolt is in there to replace Banjo bolt.. It is also wrapped with electrical tape.. But bolt has not been removed to see if that bolt is solid or?? Also could be that it is solid but tape was just added hopeful precautionary measure.

Observation that adds to all the confusion is; its.. Schrader's valve stem is THREADED ALL WAY TO THE TIP
View attachment 843279
Click to expand...
If you havent already go to midwest military equipment and search valve stems then the one with the red cap is what we need but i wouldnt want to have to break the tires all the way down to swap valve stem but as each tire needed attention then swap it
 
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