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More rotting gold
More rotting gold
More rotting gold
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
G749 preservation
- Thread starter m1010plowboy
- Start date
Stan Leschert
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Thanks. With any luck we'll have an old style M105 ready for our Chistmas Toy Drive.
I need more room for all of the toys and bikes that we donate to our local Salvation Army!
Now, how about some pics of where you are in your build.
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Box Preserved
The sand blasters did such a great job in every groove and channel prepping this box that the guilt was big choosing not to spray.
Instead we got at it with rollers and brushes and poured primer then paint on every piece of exposed metal........on the bottom.
Taking advice from the Endura Team we essentially dipped the bottom of the box in Delta Urethane Primer and let it sit over night. Back brushing after rolling takes out air and with a decent brush and a lite touch the finish looks...........like we brushed it after we rolled it.
After splashing the OD on it and smoothing it out we have a box that should be around for another 50 years. I know we have a good seal and an acceptable finish and it proves one does not need to spray to preserve.
The sand blasters did such a great job in every groove and channel prepping this box that the guilt was big choosing not to spray.
Instead we got at it with rollers and brushes and poured primer then paint on every piece of exposed metal........on the bottom.
Taking advice from the Endura Team we essentially dipped the bottom of the box in Delta Urethane Primer and let it sit over night. Back brushing after rolling takes out air and with a decent brush and a lite touch the finish looks...........like we brushed it after we rolled it.
After splashing the OD on it and smoothing it out we have a box that should be around for another 50 years. I know we have a good seal and an acceptable finish and it proves one does not need to spray to preserve.
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Superdave
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Did you at least use NEW brushes and rollers 
Man you have the Bling now Dave
Man you have the Bling now Dave
135gmc
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If you decide to roll or brush on a coat of paint, remember that brushing on paint was the normal way that a using group had to paint equipment - spraying was limited to a support organization. Even now, users are told to touch up paint by brush or dauber instead of spraying. A friend of mine bought an M38 years ago, and it was definitely painted with a brush. He purchased the Jeep directly from the National Guard.
Cargo boxes were regularly painted by brush since they didn't need to mask anything off, and they could get a truck looking good very fast with a brush. When I repainted my cargo box, I found about 12 coats of paint on the bed.
Cargo boxes were regularly painted by brush since they didn't need to mask anything off, and they could get a truck looking good very fast with a brush. When I repainted my cargo box, I found about 12 coats of paint on the bed.
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Box Preserved
GMC......I completely agree......Paul said it a while back that if it's got runs and brush marks ....it's restored.
We got it flipped over and started with the detail on the sides, tops and inside.
We kept the idea of "preserving" the box #1 and basically poured primer then paint into the floor of the box and smoothed it out. It's coated in plastic paint and should last for another 50 years, when I get at it again.
To get a serious non-slip floor we tried a couple techniques of sprinkling coarse sand on the tacky primer then over roll it with more primer. We left a section in the middle with a pattern of sand and rolled the paint directly over that. We'll see which one holds up best.
We also sanded off some of the 'deeper' brush marks on the sides with 60 then 180 grit because almost nice just won't do. This time I used a high density roller to apply, back brushed it immediately with a fine hair brush to get air out then hit it with a dry roller as it started to tack. The finish looks like a slightly orange peeled spray job done in the field in 1956...and its beautiful.
This finish really proves that you don't need to have a spray booth to save one of these things and make it nice enough to enjoy, drive, show.
Anyone can do this.
Drive shafts go back in next week and we'll mount the box soon, real soon. All that's left is ......almost endless.
GMC......I completely agree......Paul said it a while back that if it's got runs and brush marks ....it's restored.
We got it flipped over and started with the detail on the sides, tops and inside.
We kept the idea of "preserving" the box #1 and basically poured primer then paint into the floor of the box and smoothed it out. It's coated in plastic paint and should last for another 50 years, when I get at it again.
To get a serious non-slip floor we tried a couple techniques of sprinkling coarse sand on the tacky primer then over roll it with more primer. We left a section in the middle with a pattern of sand and rolled the paint directly over that. We'll see which one holds up best.
We also sanded off some of the 'deeper' brush marks on the sides with 60 then 180 grit because almost nice just won't do. This time I used a high density roller to apply, back brushed it immediately with a fine hair brush to get air out then hit it with a dry roller as it started to tack. The finish looks like a slightly orange peeled spray job done in the field in 1956...and its beautiful.
This finish really proves that you don't need to have a spray booth to save one of these things and make it nice enough to enjoy, drive, show.
Anyone can do this.
Drive shafts go back in next week and we'll mount the box soon, real soon. All that's left is ......almost endless.
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Lights
Rear(s) pinion seals, bearings and 'propellers' back in place we got at the electrical.
The TM's were IN TM idating in the beginning but I'm finding as much detail as one would building a Revell Model...........comprehension is next.
We pulled 8 old sealed marker lights into the shop and opened them up.....Looks like the lights went swimming at some time and we could only save 2.
The challenge at that moment was there were 3 lights in 3 of the original markers and only 2 in the right rear. After reading page 288 .............
f. Front Marker Lights. Front Marker lights are mounted................figure 163. Each marker light contains three lamps (bulbs) ( fig. 165) ; however only two lamps in each marker are used on these vehicles....................................
g. Stop and Taillights. One light is mounted........... Light at right side contains two lamps, and serves as a blackout, stop and taillight ( fig. 166). Light at left side contains three lamps.............
it became obvious that I needed 2--- 3 light markers.....of which I will only use two lights and one wire must schwingg in the wind.......historically.
Why?
Is it the obvious scenario that there were just more 3 bulb 'mounts' available and the manufacturers just threw them on???......... spare bulb carrier??? I'd like to tell the story someday and can't find the why in the TM's.
In any case, one phone call to SuperDave and my girl is wearing some brand new shiny OD lookin' NOS 3 bulb marker lights in the front.
We got the signal switch mounted, tacked in the LED light mount fillers in the rear bumper and threw in this cool junction box so we can upgrade the electrical to the original markers and the 'bonus' taillights.
We're only a few days away from firing and spinning the truck around so we can get at the front diff. easier. I already pulled the schematic on the diff and it looks like multiple gaskets (solved I think ) and seals (not so sure ) and balls......man this truck has got balls.
Anyone have one of these diffs apart and re-built?
Are there 'wear' parts that I can EXPECT to find when I start breakin down or need to replace at some point, that I can find and buy now....just in case.
Remembrance day is getting close and she will be ready.....even if Brian talks me into a complete replacement diff.....it's on the road before the 11th.
Rear(s) pinion seals, bearings and 'propellers' back in place we got at the electrical.
The TM's were IN TM idating in the beginning but I'm finding as much detail as one would building a Revell Model...........comprehension is next.
We pulled 8 old sealed marker lights into the shop and opened them up.....Looks like the lights went swimming at some time and we could only save 2.
The challenge at that moment was there were 3 lights in 3 of the original markers and only 2 in the right rear. After reading page 288 .............
f. Front Marker Lights. Front Marker lights are mounted................figure 163. Each marker light contains three lamps (bulbs) ( fig. 165) ; however only two lamps in each marker are used on these vehicles....................................
g. Stop and Taillights. One light is mounted........... Light at right side contains two lamps, and serves as a blackout, stop and taillight ( fig. 166). Light at left side contains three lamps.............
it became obvious that I needed 2--- 3 light markers.....of which I will only use two lights and one wire must schwingg in the wind.......historically.
Why?
Is it the obvious scenario that there were just more 3 bulb 'mounts' available and the manufacturers just threw them on???......... spare bulb carrier??? I'd like to tell the story someday and can't find the why in the TM's.
In any case, one phone call to SuperDave and my girl is wearing some brand new shiny OD lookin' NOS 3 bulb marker lights in the front.
We got the signal switch mounted, tacked in the LED light mount fillers in the rear bumper and threw in this cool junction box so we can upgrade the electrical to the original markers and the 'bonus' taillights.
We're only a few days away from firing and spinning the truck around so we can get at the front diff. easier. I already pulled the schematic on the diff and it looks like multiple gaskets (solved I think ) and seals (not so sure ) and balls......man this truck has got balls.
Anyone have one of these diffs apart and re-built?
Are there 'wear' parts that I can EXPECT to find when I start breakin down or need to replace at some point, that I can find and buy now....just in case.
Remembrance day is getting close and she will be ready.....even if Brian talks me into a complete replacement diff.....it's on the road before the 11th.
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- 1,171
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- Galesville, WI
Looks loke some nice rubber on that front wheel!
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Tires
You are so right. A Deep lug that .......had they protected these tires....would be nice for snow and swamping.
Unfortunately someone forgot the spf30 and they are gently weather (checked) cracked and will never see the highway.
I'd like to keep them for weekends when she won't be displayed....historically.
Ideally, a set of original tires and rims show up and I get to see what the folks who drove these trucks, really dealt with.
I hear the NOS is terrible for traction . . . . true?
You are so right. A Deep lug that .......had they protected these tires....would be nice for snow and swamping.
Unfortunately someone forgot the spf30 and they are gently weather (checked) cracked and will never see the highway.
I'd like to keep them for weekends when she won't be displayed....historically.
Ideally, a set of original tires and rims show up and I get to see what the folks who drove these trucks, really dealt with.
I hear the NOS is terrible for traction . . . . true?
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lights and turn signals
After looking...........I found schematics for everything one needs to get lights working.
The first photo is a description of what the existing switch does.
The challenge isn't just trying to get the original lights to work but also trying to decipher the wiring someone had already put in and what was wired where. Dead horse beat, it's just easier to start from the beginning.
The second photo, figure 167 and 168 on pages 304, 305 and 306 is a paint by number schematic of what the wiring is supposed to do. The electrical section covers pages 286 - 335 and could not be any more descriptive.
The turd photo is a schematic that comes with the signal assembly. Adding 'turn signals', LED in this case will only require a fuse and a pricey flasher. When I get it i'll post part numbers.
This should be a breeze, should be done soon . . . . . . real soon.
After looking...........I found schematics for everything one needs to get lights working.
The first photo is a description of what the existing switch does.
The challenge isn't just trying to get the original lights to work but also trying to decipher the wiring someone had already put in and what was wired where. Dead horse beat, it's just easier to start from the beginning.
The second photo, figure 167 and 168 on pages 304, 305 and 306 is a paint by number schematic of what the wiring is supposed to do. The electrical section covers pages 286 - 335 and could not be any more descriptive.
The turd photo is a schematic that comes with the signal assembly. Adding 'turn signals', LED in this case will only require a fuse and a pricey flasher. When I get it i'll post part numbers.
This should be a breeze, should be done soon . . . . . . real soon.
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Gunfreak25
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HO LEE CRAP. That is one thorough restoration. I think the GMC's are making a come back. More and more people are joining here with new GMC toys. Super job.....
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Torsion bars removal, rear cab mount
Had Rollie the Goalie mechanic show me up on torsion bar removal. The cross support was bent and front lower torsion bars were loose at the rear mount so they had to come off. The rear bolts came out fairly easy as access for beating was good. The bolts are worn out beyond belief and as seen in the photo the donor bolts are grooved to fit into the T-bar......and will be a little tighter then the originals.
Eventually we'll need to re-build the rear bracket holes as they look like someone may have been 6x6'n and just slightly wore out the holes.
After I beat on the front of the torsion bar for an eternity Rollie took over and began to love tap the bottom of the hangers off the diff. You can see where the paint is beat off of the hangers and where Rollie works smart not hard.
It appears that a few hits with the hammer in the right spot on the torsion bar diff. bracket . . . .loosens the pin enough to essentially fall out.
Finally got a pic of the 'center bolt cab mount' and the cool pucks Rollie fab'd up.
Had Rollie the Goalie mechanic show me up on torsion bar removal. The cross support was bent and front lower torsion bars were loose at the rear mount so they had to come off. The rear bolts came out fairly easy as access for beating was good. The bolts are worn out beyond belief and as seen in the photo the donor bolts are grooved to fit into the T-bar......and will be a little tighter then the originals.
Eventually we'll need to re-build the rear bracket holes as they look like someone may have been 6x6'n and just slightly wore out the holes.
After I beat on the front of the torsion bar for an eternity Rollie took over and began to love tap the bottom of the hangers off the diff. You can see where the paint is beat off of the hangers and where Rollie works smart not hard.
It appears that a few hits with the hammer in the right spot on the torsion bar diff. bracket . . . .loosens the pin enough to essentially fall out.
Finally got a pic of the 'center bolt cab mount' and the cool pucks Rollie fab'd up.
Attachments
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- Edmonton, Canada
Turn signal flasher, winch
Removed the PTO shaft to the winch and dropped it at Pat's Driveline a few weeks ago. Got the call today and after dropping $250 now own an 'updated' propeller for the winch including mid-shaft bearing.
I also removed the original winch hook assembly off the original cable that was on the truck. After some liquid wrench and some wrenching, split the 4 piece coupler that attaches the chain to cable and began putting it back on the new cable. This is much easier then expected as the set-up is tapered and sized to fit the cable. One more piece nearly complete.
Rollie the Goalie Mechanic had already purchased a flasher and is only a few hours away from completing the lights. He cleaned up all the after market wires that were 'spliced in' to the original light wiring. All connections that have been butchered where we can not use the "Douglas" connectors will be soldered and shrink wrapped so they last until I'm 147.
Another challenge was the "brake light switch". Either my truck never had one, is only part of the dash switch or it was removed. I need to research this but Rollie had already mounted a "switch" on the rear upper port of the Master Cylinder. I'll try and get some photos of his fix but as I said before, there has not been a problem that this mechanic hasn't found a solution for. The cool thing is Rollie sends me back to the TM's to find schematics and solutions........and has everything completed when I return. With his help this unit will ROLL by November 10th.
Had to add this dash photo. As in previous photos I started "GOOF OFF" to clean some old rattle can paint off and it's nearly complete. The original OD is tough Shtuff and the goof off appears to only shine it up. Good info for others who only want to strip down to the original paint.
FLASHER 24 VOLT, LED COMP
Removed the PTO shaft to the winch and dropped it at Pat's Driveline a few weeks ago. Got the call today and after dropping $250 now own an 'updated' propeller for the winch including mid-shaft bearing.
I also removed the original winch hook assembly off the original cable that was on the truck. After some liquid wrench and some wrenching, split the 4 piece coupler that attaches the chain to cable and began putting it back on the new cable. This is much easier then expected as the set-up is tapered and sized to fit the cable. One more piece nearly complete.
Rollie the Goalie Mechanic had already purchased a flasher and is only a few hours away from completing the lights. He cleaned up all the after market wires that were 'spliced in' to the original light wiring. All connections that have been butchered where we can not use the "Douglas" connectors will be soldered and shrink wrapped so they last until I'm 147.
Another challenge was the "brake light switch". Either my truck never had one, is only part of the dash switch or it was removed. I need to research this but Rollie had already mounted a "switch" on the rear upper port of the Master Cylinder. I'll try and get some photos of his fix but as I said before, there has not been a problem that this mechanic hasn't found a solution for. The cool thing is Rollie sends me back to the TM's to find schematics and solutions........and has everything completed when I return. With his help this unit will ROLL by November 10th.
Had to add this dash photo. As in previous photos I started "GOOF OFF" to clean some old rattle can paint off and it's nearly complete. The original OD is tough Shtuff and the goof off appears to only shine it up. Good info for others who only want to strip down to the original paint.
FLASHER 24 VOLT, LED COMP
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Last edited:
Gunfreak25
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What's the diameter on those front tires?
Stan Leschert
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Dave, You aren't allowed to use "Goof Off"
If you do you might disappear,
and we still have things for you to do!
Get your butt back out here, and you'll get to meet my wife!
Beers... trucks ...Beers, BBQ. Taxi!
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Tire size,
Gunfreak, They are 11.00 -20's but honestly couldn't tell you the diameter. I'm going to add that to the list tomorrow. Tunnel vision.
I can tell you if your tree is a Fraxinus Pennsylvannica or an Ulmus Americana but don't know my Ficus elastica, yet.
and Stan . . . . . I'm looking at movin' the trip to Kelowna to the 12th - 15th. We've got a Military Family Support rally on the 10th and of course the 11th is out......so
If summer comes and the Pass is great I may get West of Kelowna but Safety 3rd. If there's a 'weather' factor I'm droppin' your parts and running home. Will keep you posted.
SuperDave may have saved my bacon again tonight but we're side slidin' on the "BRAKE SWITCH" thang and haven't got power off the pedal.
Of course Dave goes out to the truck tonight in his Pj's because we couldn't find the answer in the TM's. He located a switch, inline, right frame rail, beside the TC in front of the first air pak. After locating it he obviously looked it up because he says it's tagged as #75 on the schematic. What a guy.
We'll look tomorrow because they'll be all the same right . . . nothing modified..... before I got it, nothing changed, just plug in and go.....right.
When I get back to the typing box tomorrow I'll let ya know how it go!! Or inform you of our progress.
Cheers
Gunfreak, They are 11.00 -20's but honestly couldn't tell you the diameter. I'm going to add that to the list tomorrow. Tunnel vision.
I can tell you if your tree is a Fraxinus Pennsylvannica or an Ulmus Americana but don't know my Ficus elastica, yet.
and Stan . . . . . I'm looking at movin' the trip to Kelowna to the 12th - 15th. We've got a Military Family Support rally on the 10th and of course the 11th is out......so
If summer comes and the Pass is great I may get West of Kelowna but Safety 3rd. If there's a 'weather' factor I'm droppin' your parts and running home. Will keep you posted.
SuperDave may have saved my bacon again tonight but we're side slidin' on the "BRAKE SWITCH" thang and haven't got power off the pedal.
Of course Dave goes out to the truck tonight in his Pj's because we couldn't find the answer in the TM's. He located a switch, inline, right frame rail, beside the TC in front of the first air pak. After locating it he obviously looked it up because he says it's tagged as #75 on the schematic. What a guy.
We'll look tomorrow because they'll be all the same right . . . nothing modified..... before I got it, nothing changed, just plug in and go.....right.
When I get back to the typing box tomorrow I'll let ya know how it go!! Or inform you of our progress.
Cheers
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Tire size, electrical gremlins, plate light
11.00 - 20's my Butt, tires are Bridgestone 10.00 -20's and as many know and I didn't are 42" tall.
License plate light, 24v mounted and ready to shine, LED lights all mounted and wired in.
We've been trying to get all the lights, including black out, to work off the original switch. We'd get power to the BO side, then it would go away and come back and go away. After testing the 'good' breakers above the steering column it was clear something else was wrong.
So the trouble shooting began with the 55 year old grounds then Rollie went after the light switch.
The photo is a little blurry but we found some wiring off the back of the switch that somebody spliced into without proper due care and attention.
The damage is on the top of the plug and we couldn't see it while laying underneath the dash. Once again Rollie's persistence and the fantastic 100 mile round trip nets me a cab harness off a donor truck and a fix is in the mix.
We also grabbed some healthy Douglas connectors because trying to get as many parts as original as possible means the preservation can honestly continue.
Should be road ready soon...real soon. Pinks are in my hand, anyone want to race?
11.00 - 20's my Butt, tires are Bridgestone 10.00 -20's and as many know and I didn't are 42" tall.
License plate light, 24v mounted and ready to shine, LED lights all mounted and wired in.
We've been trying to get all the lights, including black out, to work off the original switch. We'd get power to the BO side, then it would go away and come back and go away. After testing the 'good' breakers above the steering column it was clear something else was wrong.
So the trouble shooting began with the 55 year old grounds then Rollie went after the light switch.
The photo is a little blurry but we found some wiring off the back of the switch that somebody spliced into without proper due care and attention.
The damage is on the top of the plug and we couldn't see it while laying underneath the dash. Once again Rollie's persistence and the fantastic 100 mile round trip nets me a cab harness off a donor truck and a fix is in the mix.
We also grabbed some healthy Douglas connectors because trying to get as many parts as original as possible means the preservation can honestly continue.
Should be road ready soon...real soon. Pinks are in my hand, anyone want to race?
Attachments
Stan Leschert
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Good work. BTW, I've never seen a bumper like that on a M135. Civvy Add-On?
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Civ bumper
It's not a bumper, it's a grannie step. She's 82 and wants to ride in the back.
The truck was registered as a commercial unit first in 85' which, i'm guessing required the bumper, front mudflaps (page 1) turn signals etc.
We put plugs on the bumper light wiring so with the removal of 4 bolts and plate location change, we can drop the 6" grannie step and go raw.
With respect to public safety and to protect the paint on my rear diff., I'm going to leave it on for now. Makes it easier to lift the kegs into the back.
There's something in one of the pics you might need Stan, if ya spot it, I'll bring it.
It's not a bumper, it's a grannie step. She's 82 and wants to ride in the back.
The truck was registered as a commercial unit first in 85' which, i'm guessing required the bumper, front mudflaps (page 1) turn signals etc.
We put plugs on the bumper light wiring so with the removal of 4 bolts and plate location change, we can drop the 6" grannie step and go raw.
With respect to public safety and to protect the paint on my rear diff., I'm going to leave it on for now. Makes it easier to lift the kegs into the back.
There's something in one of the pics you might need Stan, if ya spot it, I'll bring it.
Stan Leschert
New member
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Was it the tires?I'm going to leave it on for now. Makes it easier to lift the kegs into the back.
There's something in one of the pics you might need Stan, if ya spot it, I'll bring it.
Yes, you Goof, Bring it!