G749 preservation

[m1010plowboy]

Help, light switch

Is the 'schematic' below accurate on how the switch positioning is designed to work????

Are the front marker lights supposed to go away when the aux switch is taken out of park position and the main switch is in service drive, for headlights???

Not even pretending to know how I have all 4 marker lights (8 counting LED's) running at the same time when aux is on Park and main on service drive. When I flip the aux. switch out of park, the headlights come on and all markers stay lit.


After 12hrs trouble shooting I've got things lit up but.......Not the way the switch says things are supposed to work.


I'm anticipating, which is better then assuming, that when this truck was re-wired to meet commercial code they cut and spliced wires in places I can't see.

If I can be assured that the schematic is correct then I'll sleep on it and look deeper. SuperDave says .....it's just wiring.

 

[nattieleather]

Yes the diagram is correct on how the stock lights are to work in the stock configuration. Why all yours come on I could not say.

 

[m1010plowboy]

ten steps forward one step back

Thank you nattieleather for the confirmation. I knew it but the truck is doin things that make me second guess a lot of stuff. There's still a few mysteries but once we get the front brakes done, juice up the master cylinder, bleed and get Pascal to the brake switch we should be good.

Nearly everything is working, high beam/ low beam, BO lights, marker lights, mirror lights and the Red sex lights in the dash.

Can someone tell me why the dash lights are red??????

Due to a tight working space it was best to turn the truck around to get at the front brakes. I've pulled the starter lever at least a hundred times and today........she would not engage. It made that fabulous whirrr sound that usually only happens at -40 deep in the bush. After sitting for 9 months in a warm shop she refused to go outside.

While dropping the starter a little rusty water ran out of the starter and flywheel cover which, has water in it. After checking the TM's which told me to remove the right fender to remove the starter, then remove and discard the seal, I realized....SOMEONE FORGOT TO READ THE TM's and didn't put a seal in it.

I washed her before parking it in the shop and.........one step back....will be paying to have the starter re-built at Cooper Bros, hopefully, before the 9th.

We tightened up the Torque rods, cross member, rear wheels, exhaust brackets and pulled the ***** kicking and screaming out the door with Rollie's big forklift.

Rollie found a tube of military grade lube which I left on her bumper overnight. Hopefully when I get at her after work tomorrow, she won't be so cranky.

 

[m1010plowboy]

pics of the day

 

[Gunfreak25]

The lights are red to reduce illumination in the cab during blackout conditions, as well as to aid in keeping your night vision compared to looking at white lights. It was 46 degrees tonight and I was freezing my nuts off. Your one sick cookie to be working out there in this weather.

 

[Seatyger]

46 ??? Thats still shorts and T-Shirt weather!

 

[135gmc]

The red bulbs are so your night vision isn't affected by the dash lights.

I recall finding water in my bell housing as well. As I remember, I took out the bell housing drain plug and drilled a 1/4" hole in it so the housing would be mostly mud/dust proof, yet it would still drain any water out.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Red light, lube and leakin'

Not having a military background has it's disadvantages. Red light, seeing outside the truck at night, all very logical but I had no idea. Thanks guys.

It's been a hilarious attempt trying to set a schedule to road ready this truck. Every build that I've read had some hurdles and this won't be any different.

I had to get a picture up of the previous wiring job that decided to give me a light show under the dash today. Tucked in behind the C/L switch was the type of splice that only someone in a hurry would do. The wire casing was shredded so bad that it arched through the casing when I was messing around with other wiring.

24 volt bright.

We got the starter back from Cooper bros today and she has a $173.00 rebuild in her.

After bolting it on we fired her up and as I suspected she fired and purrrred like the day I parked it. That was a huge step forward for the day.

and of course next to come is, One step back.......

After shutting it down I left the key on for maybe 15 seconds and the smell of gas started to fill the shop. With the key on the pump keeps running and instead of behaving, spit a pint of gas onto the floor. Back to the books to see what investment she wants me to make now. I'm sure those who have some experience with these trucks will know exactly what happened and I'll be back to check in when the work day is over.

Took a pic of the front springs which truly indicate how neglected and beat this truck was before I saved it. Somehow I still think she wants to be part of this Canada's Remembrance day activities and tomorrow is another day. There's lots to do if the carb won't cooperate.

The lube seemed to work to calm her down but I may have left the two of them alone for too long. Today she squirts all over the ground and I'm hoping her diaphram didn't come loose because I'm too old to have kids and jump from a burning truck.

Return line plugged?, Float stuck?, Farady low pressure warning unhooked?? Back to the SuperDaves, I mean TM's.

 

[Gunfreak25]

No fuel return lines on the GMC's (except mine of course!) so if the key was left on they would flood the carb. Of course, if the key was left on you should here the low air buzzer with empty air tanks. It's either not plugged in or is broken, the later seems normal for a lot of these. I wish I could help on the wiring, but it looks far from factory.

 

[butch atkins]

i have TM 9-1826D,HOLLEY Carbs & Governors,lists way to many problems in troubleshooting section to give good answer,check to see if float is stuck,accelerater pump could be trashy,power valve stuck,gaskets may just need to get wet,swell uo\p and seal carb assys together,will help as much as i can with info from manual,good luck keep posting

 

[m1010plowboy]

Carb leak

Thank you Butch, You may have it, I know the truck sat for long periods before I bought it and the carb was great, up to today. Dry seal, stuck float...... The pump must have a pressure regulator/valve that tells it to stop pumping when the "silly" valve in the carb operates correctly.

It'll be something simple and I'll look online for the TM and details......and we can post solutions together.

Cheers

 

[m1010plowboy]

Electrical

Hey Gunfreak, it's similar to calling the mechanic and asking him what's wrong with the car because it's making a cucucucuc noise. Now that I'm buried in old wiring and sorting things out one wire at a time, it's not so bad.

23 to 23, 19 to 19, 75 to the brake switch, 75 return to the new 900 series signal switch then the new $17.00 44890 Grote flasher, 40 to 40 and so on.



The schematic(s) in the TM's are beautiful and everyday I get a little closer to making it right and actually understanding what I'm doing. Lot's to learn man.

Just wait for the next round of pics.

 

[Stan Leschert]

If your float is stuck open, try rapping the bowl lightly with a plastic handled screwdriver.
That put the fear of Stan into my rebuild motorbike and IT WORKED!

 

[signmaker]

Semi - Gloss was the original Paint..

 

[135gmc]

If you're running the original in-tank pump, it runs continually and holds pressure on the fuel line. Its a submerged centrifugal pump. There are two metal filters on the sides of the fuel pump container that are supposed to strain the gas. My 135 suddenly started leaking gas from the carb, and tapping on it didn't help. I pulled the top off the carb and found a large chunk of sand stuck between the float valve needle and the seat. I pulled out the sand, and installed an in-line fuel filter about 6" from the carb. The in-the-tank filters were left there to strain out leaves and chunks that might mess up the pump, but the filter at the carb was my cheap insurance. That was the end of my carb problems. Also, if you rebuild the carb, the correct position for the accelerator pump link is in the center hole. When the engine was used in anything armored, the link was set for maximum stroke, but that will really cause problems in a truck. There are some rebuilt carbs floating around the surplus dealers that were set up for armor. I had one that drove me nuts until I saw a reference to the stroke in a carb TM, and that cured all my problems.

 

[Gunfreak25]

That is interesting, the carb can be set to have a longer stroke? I am assuming this means higher RPM's and more fuel?

 

[135gmc]

Nope - longer stroke tries to flood the engine when you step on the gas. The performance requirements are different with armored equipment with an automatic trans than for a truck with an automatic trans - I think it was the M59 APC - and the transmission/etc are all set up for an armored vehicle. Try it in the truck, and it will stumble at every stop sign and nearly stall.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Ready to roll willing to stay and pay

On behalf of my Grandfather, "Stephen Ottie Ewing" who joined the troops as soon as he was old enough in 1917, his brother "Ralph Crickmay Ewing" who gave his life in October 1916 and can be visited at the Vimy Memorial and to all those who have and continue to stand and fall for all that is good, honest and with freedom.

I present to you in memory and continued gratitude....... my Steel Soldier.

We're not rolling with her tonight but she will be staged in a safe place, a warm place that is quiet, dry and with companion.

Without words and rather with moments of silence I can only ask that some day.........we can all just get along.

 

[m1010plowboy]

Semi Gloss

Signmaker........you should see the gloss. Straight off the Endura Website is the paint that we used which claims to be semi-gloss.

http://www.endura.ca/products/specialty/rollcoat.html

In any respect the entire idea is preservation of all her parts and the crazy shiny paint that is on the truck will hopefully last long enough for me to learn how to Restore this truck someday.

Temperatures up here range from -40F to 100 above and it'll fade fast because.....we don't seem to have much ozone overhead.

I have very little experience when it comes to painting and will be taking lessons from anyone that thinks they have the patience to teach me.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

November 10th, 2011.

I was never a fan of the M211 and M135's as they were rather slow and underpowered compared to the M35A2 (from practical experience), BUT you truck looks magnificent! I would almost corrupt me from the M35A2, but probably not from the Unimg. Keep up the good work!