Gen1 trouble

[AllAmerican505]

Just need to put your voltmeter in between and read what it says. Figure f9 in the tm shows the connection the brown wire goes through the firewall on. Back probing that is very difficult so you'd have to unbolt it to test it from the block to the alternator and the block to the bulb.

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I just tested from the alt plug brown to build and has continuity.

 

[AllAmerican505]

I just tested from the alt plug brown to build and has continuity.

Not build but bulb…

 

[WWRD99]

I just tested from the alt plug brown to build and has continuity.

So you do have continuity from the bulb to the alternator plug. So you have to have power at the alternator plug then since you have power at the bulb. They're on the same wire. You can't have both and no power at the plug. It's not possible.

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[AllAmerican505]

So you do have continuity from the bulb to the alternator plug. So you have to have power at the alternator plug then since you have power at the bulb. They're on the same wire. You can't have both and no power at the plug. It's not possible.

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I agree 100% I’m chasing my tail and a new alternator and still 26.4 ish volts.
Does the light even come on with key on ever?
It’s all powered but nothing in the brown wire key on or off.

 

[RattleSnack]

I've been pulling up wiring diagrams and reviewing pics of cluster circuit boards this whole time....

...but I'm definitely stumped now. Something just isn't adding up.

 

[AllAmerican505]

I've been pulling up wiring diagrams and reviewing pics of cluster circuit boards this whole time....

...but i'm definitely stumped now.

Ghost in the machine
I need to figure this out as I want the 24v and slave cable option.
The longer this takes the less likely I will leave it 24volt

 

[WWRD99]

I agree 100% I’m chasing my tail and a new alternator and still 26.4 ish volts.
Does the light even come on with key on ever?
It’s all powered but nothing in the brown wire key on or off.

The light comes on with the key, and the regulator, brown wire, is the ground. Once you start it, the ground is gone because the regulator is using the power. Where are you getting a ground for your meter checking the brown wire at the alternator? Don't use the battery...use the block or body.

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[AllAmerican505]

The light comes on with the key, and the regulator, brown wire, is the ground. Once you start it, the ground is gone because the regulator is using the power. Where are you getting a ground for your meter checking the brown wire at the alternator? Don't use the battery...use the block or body.

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I will try more tomorrow

 

[Tow4]

The light comes on with the key, and the regulator, brown wire, is the ground. Once you start it, the ground is gone because the regulator is using the power.

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Actually, once the alternator starts generating, there is B+ at that terminal which means there is B+ on both sides of the bulb. When the alternator is not working, that terminal is low (ground) and the bulb lights. If you ground regulator terminal #1, the alternator light should come on.

You can test the alternator on the truck to be sure it's not the problem. Click the link below.

Testing the alternator on the vehicle.

 

[WWRD99]

Actually, once the alternator starts generating, there is B+ at that terminal which means there is B+ on both sides of the bulb. When the alternator is not working, that terminal is low (ground) and the bulb lights. If you ground regulator terminal #1, the alternator light should come on.

You can test the alternator on the truck to be sure it's not the problem. Click the link below.

Testing the alternator on the vehicle.

Pretty sure that's what I said. No need to try and nit pick. Actually.

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[Tow4]

Pretty sure that's what I said. No need to try and nit pick. Actually.

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Not trying to nit pick. The regulator is not using the power. When you explain things, it is better to be accurate.