Glow Plug Replacement

[Ramzi]

Update:

Replaced all 8 GPs with 3/8" Wellman plugs from Mike at Black Dog Custom - who was very helpful.
Unfortunately only one GP did not spec-out bad (0.8ohm).
Charged both batteries fully and we still have only a single brief flash on the "WAIT" light and no GP charge.

After talking to Tobash - who was also very helpful - he pointed me to Cam of Camoteck who sent me "the goods" very quickly and well packed.

But Ive got to wait until next week to see if we're cooking with diesel or not.... taking the '66 Fiat 500 to Cars and Coffee in Archer City, TX...
...If you know where that is you win a 10mm GP.

Will report back next week.
Thank you all for the excellent help so far!
r-

 

[taskunitbruiser]

One on the pass side, I could not budge to loosen as it is rusted on the head. I applied too much pressure and the head is now a bit rounded and a 3/8 won't grip it anymore.

I would try a propane torch and maybe some channel locks or specialized removal sockets. The welding idea sounds like something to consider as well, perhaps can weld some rod perpendicular and use as a lever to spin it out or weld a larger nut and get another socket.

One on the driver's side, I just put a socket on it and it literally disintegrated instantly and has no head to grip and just the center electrode sticking out.

Was it rusted? This one sounds tougher. It is fully threaded down? Maybe heat again and then some light pressure with channel locks if they fit. My thought is you may end up spinning the electrode and separating from the thread which could leave a hole in the head, i.e. no pressure.

 

[taskunitbruiser]

Update:

Replaced all 8 GPs with 3/8" Wellman plugs from Mike at Black Dog Custom - who was very helpful.
Unfortunately only one GP did not spec-out bad (0.8ohm).
Charged both batteries fully and we still have only a single brief flash on the "WAIT" light and no GP charge.

After talking to Tobash - who was also very helpful - he pointed me to Cam of Camoteck who sent me "the goods" very quickly and well packed.

But Ive got to wait until next week to see if we're cooking with diesel or not.... taking the '66 Fiat 500 to Cars and Coffee in Archer City, TX...
...If you know where that is you win a 10mm GP.

Will report back next week.
Thank you all for the excellent help so far!
r-

If your Smartbox goes out, Camoteck is the way to go.

 

[FlameRed]

I would try a propane torch and maybe some channel locks or specialized removal sockets. The welding idea sounds like something to consider as well, perhaps can weld some rod perpendicular and use as a lever to spin it out or weld a larger nut and get another socket.



Was it rusted? This one sounds tougher. It is fully threaded down? Maybe heat again and then some light pressure with channel locks if they fit. My thought is you may end up spinning the electrode and separating from the thread which could leave a hole in the head, i.e. no pressure.

The consensus of the knowledgeable forum members here is to leave these two glow plugs alone, and to not touch the remaining two others that I stopped at. Since I live in the Florida inferno it starts fine except for the smoke. I successfully replaced four.

I kind of agree with them as I can easily turn the rig from a starting and running rig to a non-runner. I do get a lot of blue smoke on startup now that I did not get before. Let's just say I don't have $3-$4k of cash to have a shop get the heads off and to a machine shop. I did find one shop willing to R&R the heads but only on an open ended basis at $145/hour since they did not know what else they were going to run into. Might be a better idea for me to try to save up some $ for a 6.5 engine swap.

My other problem is I cannot weld. And I am not sure what material the glow plugs are made out of can be welded to, easily at least.

Of course I could try soaking it in penetrating oil for days, and they put some dry ice on the glow plug to see if that will loosen it up. Warming up the engine too might help. But if I grab on the electrode and open it up, yup, I have a open cylinder and a non-runner.

 

[FlameRed]

Not that I am going to try to do anything more to further aggrevate my glow plug broken situation, but I did a bit of searching and when you search on Duramax glow plug stuck or broken, you get a LOT of information that is interesting, but not applicable to the HMMWV.

• You can get a air hammer socket adapter, which I did not know existed, that you can use to help get the glow plug out before you break it. So in addition to heat, cold, PB Blaster, you use this little do hickey on a air hammer to supply vibration while you attempt to gently remove them. Might have issue getting access on the pass side for this.

• Reference:

• If the glow plug disintegrated, like me, the next method is to try is to weld a nut on to the what remains of the glow plug sticking out the head.
• Reference

• The next method that will not work for us, are special kits for Duramax, Mercedes, and some others that will allow you to drill it out properly and extract it while saving the threads in the head. None of them that I saw would seem to fit the HMMWV. I would think it would be hard to use these on the pass side even if they fit as there is no room.

• Another method that did not seem to work was to use an Easy-out. But as you saw in the second video, it is more likely to break than work.

• Then there is the last ditch effort of drilling it out, and using a standard tap to clean out the threads and get all the garbage out of the cup! Your got to be lucky to pull this one off without something to center it and get the exact angle.

• Next would be to remove the head(s).

I cannot believe the Military did not develop a special kit for broken/stuck glow plugs like are available for Duramax/Mercedes. I guess DoD just replaces the engine if one gets broken!?!?!?!?

 

[Coug]

*snip*
I cannot believe the Military did not develop a special kit for broken/stuck glow plugs like are available for Duramax/Mercedes. I guess DoD just replaces the engine if one gets broken!?!?!?!?

Would you trust going out into a combat situation with an engine worked on by a teenager that never even looked under the hood of a car before they joined up 6 months previously?
Doing a job like that right can sometimes take almost as long as just yanking out the engine and shoving in a new one.
Remember, it isn't their own money that they are spending, so why do it the hard way?

 

[Ramzi]

The simple solution is usually the best.

This is by no means a solicited endorsement.... I just want to share my expericence.

Cam's Camotek systems Start Box solved the problem(s) - the truck starts like it should. No more worrying about IF it will start on a cold day.
Installation was painless and quick - Im sure you can YouTube dozens of folks who've already done it but I just read the instructions (weird, I know).

The thing which stood out the most on the Camotek box is the attention to detail. From the packaging to to the lock tight on the jam-nut for the remote push button - these are built right - and solid. The hardest part was drilling the hole for the optional remote push button because the steering wheel is in the way... other than that it was 100% straight forward.

The lesson learned hear is to ask questions before beginning any project if youre new to this world. There is a wealth of knowledge here and people willing to help and be aware of what you are buying.

Cam (Camotek), Mike (Mad Dog), Tobash - thank you for helping me to get back on the road.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Not that I am going to try to do anything more to further aggrevate my glow plug broken situation, but I did a bit of searching and when you search on Duramax glow plug stuck or broken, you get a LOT of information that is interesting, but not applicable to the HMMWV.

• You can get a air hammer socket adapter, which I did not know existed, that you can use to help get the glow plug out before you break it. So in addition to heat, cold, PB Blaster, you use this little do hickey on a air hammer to supply vibration while you attempt to gently remove them. Might have issue getting access on the pass side for this.

• Reference:

• If the glow plug disintegrated, like me, the next method is to try is to weld a nut on to the what remains of the glow plug sticking out the head.
• Reference

• The next method that will not work for us, are special kits for Duramax, Mercedes, and some others that will allow you to drill it out properly and extract it while saving the threads in the head. None of them that I saw would seem to fit the HMMWV. I would think it would be hard to use these on the pass side even if they fit as there is no room.

• Another method that did not seem to work was to use an Easy-out. But as you saw in the second video, it is more likely to break than work.

• Then there is the last ditch effort of drilling it out, and using a standard tap to clean out the threads and get all the garbage out of the cup! Your got to be lucky to pull this one off without something to center it and get the exact angle.

• Next would be to remove the head(s).

I cannot believe the Military did not develop a special kit for broken/stuck glow plugs like are available for Duramax/Mercedes. I guess DoD just replaces the engine if one gets broken!?!?!?!?

Trying to get an air hammer to line up with a glow plug in a HumV... Not going to happen IMO.

What I have been reading lately... Jack hammer the whole engine out.

Knock yourself out, CAMO

(not personally directed, guess it's worth a try?)

 

[Thunderbirds]

Im going to replace my glow plugs but I had a few questions for the brain trust.

1. I purchased replacement plugs from a well known vendor (the highest grade they offer) but they are 10mm not 3/8. Is it true that the 10mm plugs are inferior? - if so I'll likely try to return them.
2. From where should I try to buy high quality Glow Plugs? - (Kascar is out of stock)
3. I have an extractor tool on the way to simplify the work - I also was wondering ... What else should I replace at the same time as my glow plugs?

Hey all,


Man, I wish I would have found this post a week ago. I too have purchased GPs from the "reputable" seller, MME or Midwest Military Equipment, and received them yesterday. They turn out to be the 10mm plug. I am able to return, but have to pay return shipping. I will see how much of the purchase price I will get back. The worst part is that these weren't even the $24 plugs. I paid nearly as much as the BDC plugs. After a search, I received an offer on Fleabay from the seller, with 5% off. Returns accepted, so I should be safe, right? Safer would have been to ask the seller if they are in fact OEM.

As far as the seller correcting his listing after "being made aware of the descrepancy", that didn't happen. I feel I will leave feedback for that to maybe warn others of the fact they are 10mm, not 3/8". To give credit, they were not advertised as 3/8" so no deception. Just junk product.

Quick question to clarify, Wellman plugs are Melton Industries plugs (which I doubt)? If not, Melton claims they are the only plugs made in the USA. If the first is not true, the second claim cannot be true. Anyone know for sure?

I am just pi$$ed that sellers like MME are allowed to use the NSN to lure buyers in. If they aren't up to Mil Spec and similar quality, don't use NSNs or P/Ns from the manuals IMHO.

 

[Gastrap]

A lot of those place like to say " direct replacement for # xxxxxxxx " and will argue that they are genuine because of that. I'd send them back, not worth installing.

Melton probably sells and installs Diesel RX / Wellman plugs, pretty sure they don't make them.

 

[mgFray]

KASCAR and MacMotors are the only places I’ll buy plugs from. It’s terrible there are so many counterfeits and/or deceptive labeled products, only way I know to tell if they are Wellman or not is the 3/8” hex head.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

The best part is MME is a sponsor here, maybe the folks who run this website should actually start calling into question the vendors
they choose? I mean…I’ve been calling them out for quite some time, these glow plugs are not the only Chinese parts they sell under the
auspices of “mil-spec OEM”….i find it abhorrent personally that a company who is selling parts for former military vehicles chooses profit over
selling USA mfg parts, kind of like when all the American flags were only made on China.
I’m not against aftermarket parts, even though as a company I do not use them or sell them, I’m against companies that prey on newbs that dont
knjw any better and advertise parts Milspec and OEM.

 

[mgFray]

Same I’m not against non authentic / original parts. But the vendor really needs to say it’s after market and where it was made. That informs the buyer and there are no surprises. With that said I’ve bought from MME and had no issues with what I got, but I also knew what I was buying.

 

[Thunderbirds]

A lot of those place like to say " direct replacement for # xxxxxxxx " and will argue that they are genuine because of that. I'd send them back, not worth installing.

Melton probably sells and installs Diesel RX / Wellman plugs, pretty sure they don't make them.

Great info, thanks much for the reply. I’ve got them boxed up and ready to ship already…

 

[Gastrap]

The best part is MME is a sponsor here, maybe the folks who run this website should actually start calling into question the vendors
they choose? I mean…I’ve been calling them out for quite some time, these glow plugs are not the only Chinese parts they sell under the
auspices of “mil-spec OEM”….i find it abhorrent personally that a company who is selling parts for former military vehicles chooses profit over
selling USA mfg parts, kind of like when all the American flags were only made on China.
I’m not against aftermarket parts, even though as a company I do not use them or sell them, I’m against companies that prey on newbs that dont
knjw any better and advertise parts Milspec and OEM.

I quit buying from them after my first purchase. They picture a genuine fuel tank plug on Ebay and shipped me a chinese junker. Never got back to me when I tried to contact them. They advertise both OEM and replacement, but apparently only ship the chinese ones. Got a real one from HPG and quit gambling on Ebay except for a few select sellers I trust.

 

[Ramzi]

I’m not against aftermarket parts, even though as a company I do not use them or sell them, I’m against companies that prey on newbs that dont
knjw any better and advertise parts Milspec and OEM.

I agree 100% . I own a business which sells automotive replacement parts. In our world an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) part generally commands a premium price as they should. Because supplies become depleted, vendors sometimes must have items reproduced - the hope being the new production will be as good as original..... For us, sometimes (not often) replacement parts are not of good quality, and we decide to not sell them... instead we'll take the loss and keep a good reputation. To be honest, it's less trouble for a vendor to sell a quality product which will last rather than one which they have to take flack for on the internet or worse over the phone. We have found that when possible, offering OEM next to aftermarket with a clear distinction and allow the customer to make an educated choice is best.

Interestingly, buying one of these trucks, has put me on the other side of the parts counter for the 1st time in a very long time. Im not restoring my truck, I just want something reasonably sound to enjoy - very similar to my customer base. I went with Wellman GPs because Im old enough to not want to do the job again (again similar to my own customer base).

The big takeaway for me here is that as a "newbie", it's on me to do my also homework. This forum is loaded with good content and well intentioned people. And moreover the information here is permanent - unlike FB (which is also full of misinformation). Read then do.