Just make sure I've got this right: on the first test, I put a probe on either side of the GP relay. I got .01 until the timer went off, then just under 12v. On the second: I put the probe on the hexagonal portion of the GP, them the input side of relay. I got -.02.
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Glow-Plugs
- Thread starter lindsaym
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Yes, correct.
The first test shows me there is no(little) voltage loss through the relay. Assumingly, under a load. I am not convinced there is a load though based on the next test result.
The second should have shown 12 volts(supply power) as you used the GP body for a ground source.
What you posted says to me, your GPs are not grounded.
The first test shows me there is no(little) voltage loss through the relay. Assumingly, under a load. I am not convinced there is a load though based on the next test result.
The second should have shown 12 volts(supply power) as you used the GP body for a ground source.
What you posted says to me, your GPs are not grounded.
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Here's one more test please.
With your meter set for DC volts, and one probe on the GP large stud(output side) and the other probe on your Battery negative terminal, what do you read? Key on like the other tests. The only thing difference(from the previous tests) is, one probe is on the battery negative instead of on the GP hex(engine ground).
With your meter set for DC volts, and one probe on the GP large stud(output side) and the other probe on your Battery negative terminal, what do you read? Key on like the other tests. The only thing difference(from the previous tests) is, one probe is on the battery negative instead of on the GP hex(engine ground).
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OK, That tells me your glow plugs(screwed into the engine) are not grounded.
Now, lets use those jumper cables again, and use one to connect from the negative battery terminal to a good clean portion of your engine(like the aluminum intake manifold or a bolt head)
And see if your Gps heat up(truck starts).
Now, lets use those jumper cables again, and use one to connect from the negative battery terminal to a good clean portion of your engine(like the aluminum intake manifold or a bolt head)
And see if your Gps heat up(truck starts).
Triple C
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Bad engine ground?
Let me see if i can help shed some light on this as I have been working on my GP system the last two nights and currently (key word) somewhat understand it.
First thing to do is test the small pink/black wire on the relay. You should read 12 volts with the key on.
Next, test the small blue wire on the relay. Use a continiuty test here between a clean ground spot and the pin on the relay. It should beep and be to ground with the key on as long as you test this as quick as you can after turning on the key. This means the GP controller is trying to fire the GPs. If the blue wire is grounded and the pink/black wire is 12v, the relay will click (unless it is bad) and close the switch between the two larger terminals.
I imagine you have tested up to this point already, but just making sure. Once the relay closes (hot pink wire/grounded blue wire), you should be able to probe the output side of the relay and get 12v.
If that 12v exists on the output side, go down to one of the glow plugs still installed on the motor and probe the connector or tab WITHOUT disconnecting it from the GP(make sure all are connected). If you have 12v, the plugs are on unless they are bad. If you do not have 12v, then the GP wiring harness needs to be repaired or replaced.
Another thing i would personally try is to disconnect the GP controller entirely and pull the eng cntrl fuse in the fuse box. Then take two jumper wires and connect one from the constant hot input post to the pink/blk wire on the relay and one from a good clean ground to the blue wire. It will immediatly trip the relay and you have full control over when the output goes hot at any time and are not relying on the GP control card. I know this is not quite per the TMs, but I have a general understanding of troubleshooting electrical circuits, so this is how I did it. Let me know what you find!
I understand you have already done some of this, but it helps me to slow down and start over sometimes. Hope it helps!
First thing to do is test the small pink/black wire on the relay. You should read 12 volts with the key on.
Next, test the small blue wire on the relay. Use a continiuty test here between a clean ground spot and the pin on the relay. It should beep and be to ground with the key on as long as you test this as quick as you can after turning on the key. This means the GP controller is trying to fire the GPs. If the blue wire is grounded and the pink/black wire is 12v, the relay will click (unless it is bad) and close the switch between the two larger terminals.
I imagine you have tested up to this point already, but just making sure. Once the relay closes (hot pink wire/grounded blue wire), you should be able to probe the output side of the relay and get 12v.
If that 12v exists on the output side, go down to one of the glow plugs still installed on the motor and probe the connector or tab WITHOUT disconnecting it from the GP(make sure all are connected). If you have 12v, the plugs are on unless they are bad. If you do not have 12v, then the GP wiring harness needs to be repaired or replaced.
Another thing i would personally try is to disconnect the GP controller entirely and pull the eng cntrl fuse in the fuse box. Then take two jumper wires and connect one from the constant hot input post to the pink/blk wire on the relay and one from a good clean ground to the blue wire. It will immediatly trip the relay and you have full control over when the output goes hot at any time and are not relying on the GP control card. I know this is not quite per the TMs, but I have a general understanding of troubleshooting electrical circuits, so this is how I did it. Let me know what you find!
I understand you have already done some of this, but it helps me to slow down and start over sometimes. Hope it helps!
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gimpyrobb
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Here is a way to test the glow plugs if out of the motor:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sk5IPReMEs0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sk5IPReMEs0
Okay, I'm about to throw my hands up!!!!!!
I thought I had this tackled. Dog-head suspected a bad ground, so I spent the morning cleaning all my fittings, checking corrosions, tightening things down, etc. Got it all put back together. Started up (for the first time in several days), idled for a short time (not a very strong idle, either), then pooped out. Won't start again. GPs are firing now, truck turns over like it wants to start, but no love. I haven't had this vehicle long, so I'm still working out some kinks - is it possible to have two problems at once?????
I guess I need to look at fuel now? This is not helping my cause with the wife, who tells me every chance she gets that I should never have purchased this thing.
I thought I had this tackled. Dog-head suspected a bad ground, so I spent the morning cleaning all my fittings, checking corrosions, tightening things down, etc. Got it all put back together. Started up (for the first time in several days), idled for a short time (not a very strong idle, either), then pooped out. Won't start again. GPs are firing now, truck turns over like it wants to start, but no love. I haven't had this vehicle long, so I'm still working out some kinks - is it possible to have two problems at once?????
I guess I need to look at fuel now? This is not helping my cause with the wife, who tells me every chance she gets that I should never have purchased this thing.
Triple C
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Yep, sounds like a fuel issue now. Start with filters. I would also put some FPPF in the tank to clear any water. If it ran and is trying to start it is probably nothing more than a clogged filter.
Triple C
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Oh and make sure your batteries are fully charged.