going back to 24v

[cucvrus]

Link? If you were closer I would give you a stock CUCV to copy off of. What link?

 

[bmorrow]

You said to do your method of a 24v conversion, I may have misread it.

 

[cucvrus]

I was being a wise guy. My method is to keep it the way it was designed. It seems to work well near perfect in my opinion and over 20 years of private ownership. So I was offering you to have one of my running CUCV's to copy everything off of. That way you see first hand how it was supposed to be and still should be to get the best results and make the TM's any use at all to you.

 

[bmorrow]

That's what I need lol. I am going back to 24. But my pass alternator isn't charging bc every time I hook up the isolated ground it arcs. That's my problem right now.

 

[cpf240]

That's what I need lol. I am going back to 24. But my pass alternator isn't charging bc every time I hook up the isolated ground it arcs. That's my problem right now.

Are you sure it is an isolated ground alternator? Test it with an ohm meter between the ground stud and the case.

 

[bmorrow]

I'm 100%. I just rebuilt it yesterday lol. An original that Came off the truck

 

[bmorrow]

I'll test it to verify its working correctly.

 

[bmorrow]

So I made some major ground on the CUCV today. I got an idea that I should get the relays. I found the generator 2 relay was bad. It was kind of by chance. I just pulled it and put a new in and hooked the isolated ground wire to the hot block and it worked! no arcing. Just thought I would share what the solution was. The only problem I have left is the front battery is not really charging. The rear battery is at 14.5v at idle and the front is at 12.25v. Any testing I can do to make sure I have voltage where I am supposed to get? Should I have 14v on both batteries

 

[Warthog]

You should have ~14.5v on each alternator when running.

Check the very top fuse (heater fuse) on the fuse block. It controls the excitor circuit for GEN1.

also remove and clean the 2pin connector at the alternator. Have you checked the voltages at that connector with the key off and the key on?

 

[bmorrow]

key on (engine on)
brown-12.25
red-12.05

key off-
brown - 0
red-12.4

new heater fuse as well
new exciter plug
also brand new alternator but there is a chance its bad. with all this electrical stuff it may be fried
also my volt meter never gets in the green. stays in the yellow

 

[bmorrow]

This is what I'm getting.

 

[cucvrus]

may be wrong but that is a 24 volt gauge. I think that is where it would be with 1 alternator charging. Anyone else?

 

[Keith_J]

There are two relays. One for back battery alternator sense, the other for voltmeter. That the VM reads might mean the other relay isn't working.

 

[bmorrow]

Both relays are working.

 

[bmorrow]

It is reading where one alternator is charging but why lol I have two alternators hooked up

 

[cucvrus]

They are still not charging 24-28 Volt. So that would be normal for 12-14 volts of charge. It is a 24 volt gauge.

 

[bmorrow]

Right. Im going back to 24v

 

[cucvrus]

Do both the idiot lights illuminate when you turn on the key without the engine running?

 

[bmorrow]

Yes. They both turn off after start too. When I crank gen 1 goes off but gen 2 doesn't.

 

[cucvrus]

IDK. You need a healthy stock CUCV to copy everything off of. I have quite a few of them. All the wiring is stock. If you were closer I could assist.