Going through auction 803a

[smokem joe]

New to the forum but I've read a ton of stuff here over the last year watching auctions to get an 803 close to home. I finally got one with just under 1000 hours on the meter that looks pretty good, but I couldn't read the date code on it (probably why it went as cheap as it did). It came from the auction site that won't attempt to start them so who knows if it even runs. My question is (and I've read posts and the TM and not found exactly what I was looking for) what do you do to go through these before attempting to start them and run a load on them? I do all my own mechanical work, and own diesel vehicles and tractors that I take care of myself so basic mechanical is no big deal. I'd just like some input from others that buy these and get them going.
Thanks

 

[Dock Rocker]

Off the top of my head everything is covered in the TM. Do a good visual inspection look at everything for loose, cut or unhooked wires. Also look for anything a critter may have built or left in it.

Service or replace the batteries.

Change all of the fluids and filters.

Drain and clean the fuel tank and change the filters. Unhook a line and make sure that you are getting fuel through the system once everything is clean.

Once all that is done go back to the TM and make sure you know what the temps and pressures are supposed to be and let her rip. You will have to reprime the fuel system but that is also in the TM.




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[jamawieb]

1st try to rotate the motor over a full 360 degree by the crank (hand).
2nd wipe the fuel tank out by hand. Usually a lot of sand and dirt in there
3rd fill the fuel tank and put new fuel filters in. This will give you a chance to see if the well nut leaks. If you don't know what the well nut is, just do a search.
4th install new oil filter and oil.
5th Check the air filter
6th this is your decision. Fill the radiator with straight water or premixed coolant. Some guys don't want to waste coolant if their is a problem. I personally just put coolant in it to start off with.
Be careful because the units are bad about air pockets. Some guys tilt the units on the side and refill through the radiator cap; I take the top radiator hose off at the thermostat, then rotate it around to act as a funnel and refill until coolant comes out the thermostat housing.
7th turn the main switch to prime and run, this will activate the fuel pump. The pump will push a majority of air out of the system over time. Let it run for approximately 5 minutes before trying to start.

Biggest problem that you may see is the return lines on the fuel system leaking. Just look at those

Then start it up and set the hertz to around 61. I would let it run for approximately an hour without a load because you don't know how long it has been since it was last operated. Then load test. Easiest way to load test is with a used electric oven. Don't hook it to your house until you have done some kind of load testing.

 

[Zed254]

Probably need some study material......https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...-802-5KW-Generator-and-MEP-803-10KW-Generator

Those are the manuals you will need to trouble shoot your machine when problems pop up. Search the SS site for info on what to do to prep a new to you unit. I bid on 5 or so pics for an 802A and was lucky that it only needed a few fuses and a new S1. Make sure the fuel tank is clean, oil is in good condition, turn the machine by hand to make sure it is not seized / full of water. Ground it to a ground rod before you fire it up.....this is in the TM. Troubleshooting is in the TM. You will need an electric stove or some other electric load for testing. The convenience receptacles are only good for 10 amps and you will be generating 52 or so. Search and read......

jamawieb said it better than I.....

 

[smokem joe]

I didn't think of wiping the fuel tank out but it makes sense that there would be dirt in there. No way it's getting hooked to the house till it has had some run time and load tested. Once it is online I have enough electric draw on the house to exercise it. Not chancing any of the house though!

 

[Guyfang]

Joe,

A whole bunch of folks are going to jump in here. Most of them know their sh@t. What you need to do is look at what we suggest and sort the wheat from the chaff. Do yourself a big favor. Download all the manuals, and read them. Get to know your set. That way, if you need help, you can ask for help without saying, thing of a jig, do-Hicky, screw thingy or do dad.

I always start with a super detailed TI, (technical inspection). I know this set well, and would see things you won't. Thats unimportant. What's important is for you to find every gig you can. Write them down. Decide what is a show stopper, and what can wait to correct. If you haven't had a lot to do with this set, then look at it twice. If you find something later, add it to your list. This way you don't forget anything.

Turn the the set over by hand. Is the exhaust cap on? Is there water in the muffler? Are the batteries in the set. Are they charged? What kind are they? Is there oil and gunk running down the exhaust side of the engine? Look in the fuel tank with a flashlight. Are there signs of fuel, oil or coolest in the bottom of the set. Is the wire harnes intact? Or is it opened up all over the place? Missing parts? Lots of stuff I haven't mentioned. Read, read, read and read some more, the threads of those before you. Has someone tossed your set off a bridge? All the doors there? Weather striping? Are the fasteners all badly rusted? If so, get a sh@t load ordered to begin with, so you don't have to wait on them when you are done repairing the set. Take a sh@t load of good pictures, and post them in the forum. People here can see things you won't. Ask questions. The only stupid question, is the one not asked. On the other hand, don't ask ten thousand questions, because you don't want to look in the manuals. Understand that the manuals cover TWO different gen sets. So if you are looking up electrical parts, you need to know how to tell the difference.

Read, read, read. The -10 manual will give you lots of super good info. It's the one manual I would tell you to read from cover to cover. Many is the person who could not start his set, or make it produce power, because they didn't hold the S1 swith in the start position long enough. The -10 explains how things are supposed to work, in what order they are supposed to work, and what is supposed to happen, when. If you understand that, troubleshooting is MUCH easyer.

Now i I will turn this over to the guys who do this professionally. They are good. Listen well.

 

[Guyfang]

Ah, it starts! All those guys jumped in in the time it took me to write my first message. This, Joe, is the power of the SS forum!

 

[smokem joe]

Overall it doesn't look to bad. Some fasteners are pretty rusty so I planned on ordering those. No batteries so I still have to procure those. I have all the manuals that I could find (and from the posts here that listed all them) downloaded and gone through in the last year. Thanks to post on here I avoided the one with visible wet stacking on it. Engine turns over manually no problem. The exhaust door was bent up and halfway shut but I didn't think to check the muffler for water. I hope to be able to open it up Saturday and see more inside and start going through it. This is very helpful for checking it out before it even starts to crank over.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,

MEP-802/803 Filters and Parts the second post has quick links to many important things.

Quad winding fuse mod? very important to check. It should have been done. The info and stuff is on PDF page 19 of the reset info (further along in that thread)

MEP-803A batteries - if you have the hold downs and bracket, and plastic trays... group 34 or group34/78 battery is what is spec'd

The well nut is the fitting which sometimes rots out due to age and JP8 fuel. The fuel drain in the lower skid is 1 location, the other is behind the front panel on the top of the fuel tank. That is the fitting where the fuel return line goes back to the tank.

Fuel return lines - a very low pressure braided rubber line. Gets old and weeps. Links are there in the thread for that info too.

After all the checking and filling etc... have a multi-meter handy. Do not low idle the unit. It should start and be right up to speed and showing around the 60Hz mark, and voltage selector to your single phase. The 120/240 single phase selection is done when engine is OFF, and is located behind the control panel.

You have found the right forum for the info. Post back when you have a issue, or need a pointer.

The units is self priming. When you are ready, turn it to prime and run and wait... wait some more, you will hear the hollow sound of the pump gradually become full. Takes a while to fill all the lines and filters. It will then of course go back to the fuel tank.

MEP-80x startup routine

 

[Guyfang]

What really needs to be done is we all sit down, come up with a list of things that should be done to a "New to you" generator set, and put them down on paper. Post it as a sticky. Every one make a list, then one person edits the lists into one document. Put it up for review. Post it. Naturally every gen set is different. But a list is a guide. If you do things in an organized manner, you cover all, (or most anyway) the bases. If you look back at the posts in this thread, you see some ideas over and over. Others, because you had that problem, so it sticks in your head. All good ideas. Now they need to be put in some semblance of order. Work smart, not hard.

 

[Dock Rocker]

What really needs to be done is we all sit down, come up with a list of things that should be done to a "New to you" generator set, and put them down on paper. Post it as a sticky. Every one make a list, then one person edits the lists into one document. Put it up for review. Post it. Naturally every gen set is different. But a list is a guide. If you do things in an organized manner, you cover all, (or most anyway) the bases. If you look back at the posts in this thread, you see some ideas over and over. Others, because you had that problem, so it sticks in your head. All good ideas. Now they need to be put in some semblance of order. Work smart, not hard.

That, Sir is a great idea.


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[Bmxenbrett]

Visually check all fluids and for leaks. Check for excess gunk in the fuel/tank. Fire it up. You own diesel stuff and do your own work so this shouldnt be a problem for you. Its not rocket science.

 

[smokem joe]

What really needs to be done is we all sit down, come up with a list of things that should be done to a "New to you" generator set, and put them down on paper. Post it as a sticky. Every one make a list, then one person edits the lists into one document. Put it up for review. Post it. Naturally every gen set is different. But a list is a guide. If you do things in an organized manner, you cover all, (or most anyway) the bases. If you look back at the posts in this thread, you see some ideas over and over. Others, because you had that problem, so it sticks in your head. All good ideas. Now they need to be put in some semblance of order. Work smart, not hard.

That is a great idea!

 

[smokem joe]

Visually check all fluids and for leaks. Check for excess gunk in the fuel/tank. Fire it up. You own diesel stuff and do your own work so this shouldnt be a problem for you. Its not rocket science.

Wasn't so much concerned with the engine side as the electrical side. Things like the quad fuse or other items that could cause a lot of damage in a hurry!!

 

[smokem joe]

Ok I went through it today. It looks to be intact and in pretty good shape. The quad fuse is in, but since it was a late 2010 manufacture date I was expecting it to be. Changed all filters and filled fluids. Air filter was brand new. It had a Kubota oil filter on it for some strange reason too. Fuel return lines are done for. I ordered some line to change all those out. I turned it over and made sure it built oil pressure so it's good there. All maintenance logs and aux fuel line were in the door storage pockets. I will need to order some body fasteners. Anyone have a good source for those?

Big item that I need clarified is this set is equipped with a remote moniter plug. The diagnostic plug was taken out and put inside behind where is should be. Instruction label under the Hertz gauge says make sure remote monitoring cable is attached to GCS monitor panel or loop back plug before starting. There is a two wire cord cut off in the power hook up area that goes to this. There are a bunch of extra red wires going to the gauges from the port. Anything to be concerned with? Remove and reinstall diag port or just leave it alone? Anything special with the cord hanging above L1? Just cut if off or leave it?

 

[smokem joe]

Oh and no sign of any water in the muffler, engine oil, or when it cranked. Thankfully the banged up exhaust door seems to have kept it out!

 

[Zed254]

Need Pictures.....

 

[Daybreak]

Ok I went through it today. It looks to be intact and in pretty good shape. The quad fuse is in, but since it was a late 2010 manufacture date I was expecting it to be. Changed all filters and filled fluids. Air filter was brand new. It had a Kubota oil filter on it for some strange reason too. Fuel return lines are done for. I ordered some line to change all those out. I turned it over and made sure it built oil pressure so it's good there. All maintenance logs and aux fuel line were in the door storage pockets. I will need to order some body fasteners. Anyone have a good source for those?

Big item that I need clarified is this set is equipped with a remote moniter plug. The diagnostic plug was taken out and put inside behind where is should be. Instruction label under the Hertz gauge says make sure remote monitoring cable is attached to GCS monitor panel or loop back plug before starting. There is a two wire cord cut off in the power hook up area that goes to this. There are a bunch of extra red wires going to the gauges from the port. Anything to be concerned with? Remove and reinstall diag port or just leave it alone? Anything special with the cord hanging above L1? Just cut if off or leave it?

Howdy,
It sounds like you got a changed version out of Tobyhanna Army Depot. There are others which have gotten those. Hopefully they see this thread and comment. If not, you might want to start a new thread about the special Tobyhanna Army Depot monitor plug, and what needs to be done for all things to work properly for you.

What's a body fasteners?

 

[smokem joe]

Need Pictures.....

I'll have to get some. Didn't want to get diesel on my phone while I was going through it

 

[smokem joe]

Howdy,
It sounds like you got a changed version out of Tobyhanna Army Depot. There are others which have gotten those. Hopefully they see this thread and comment. If not, you might want to start a new thread about the special Tobyhanna Army Depot monitor plug, and what needs to be done for all things to work properly for you.

What's a body fasteners?

I just came to the same conclusion. I found a thread where 2 people had them but no mention of how to resolve it. It won't work in it's current configuration according to them.

Body bolt...the 5/16 bolts holding the aluminum skin on