goldneagle's 1985 M1008 recovery and restoration thread...

[goldneagle]

I finished painting the truck today. I started by unbolting the tool box mounted behind the cab. I then wiped down the surface with surface prep and primed some exposed spots. I got the top painted and then painted around the back window. I also finished painting the passenger side door and rocker panel. Once the paint was dry I used a razor blade to scrape the paint off the rear window as well as the triangle glass on the passenger side. I did not do the windshield yet. will let the paint dry till tomorrow and then scrape it off. I also need to paint the other 2 rims green. I saw some missed spots and will touch them up tomorrow. Here are pictures of the progress.

 

[goldneagle]

Loaded up the truck last Friday to take the empty aluminum cans to the scrap yard. When i tried to start the truck it would crank but not run. Tried 4 or 5 times without any luck. Ended up checking the filter and hoses for flow and there was none. I tried to pressurize the tank and no luck getting pressure to build up due to the large opening. Stuffing a rag inside a plastic bag didn't help. Finally remembered I had some very large cork stoppers in the shop. Drilled a 3/8" hole in the cork and was a perfect fit. We were able to get fuel flowing but could not start the truck. We even filled the fuel filter and it barely started but no fuel flow to the fuel filter. Since we could get fuel to flow from the tank to the pump we decided the pump was shot (after less than 2 months).

Ordered a new pump (AC Delco) from AMAZON.com It got here on Sunday. (gotta love Amazon Prime!) Had my mechanic come by Monday afternoon to install the new pump. We could not get the truck started even with pressurizing the fuel tank. Gave up for the day.

Today we towed the truck to his shop using the tow bars and his pickup. When he took out the pump he said the push rod felt funny (moving side to side). He took the adapter plate off to grab the push rod. When he brought it out he commented that it had snapped off. The end was rough and looked like it was broken off. He used a magnet to retrieve the 1-1/4" piece of push rod out of the engine. See pictures.

We ordered a new fuel pump push rod and both gaskets from NAPA. They will be coming in tomorrow morning. Hopefully I will have my truck back tomorrow afternoon.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Sounds like an electric lift pump would be a good investment for you ( even with the broken pushrod). No reason you can't run an electric lift pump and a mechanical lift pump together. Neither pump should override the other, but it could help keep you from getting stranded.

 

[goldneagle]

Sounds like an electric lift pump would be a good investment for you ( even with the broken pushrod). No reason you can't run an electric lift pump and a mechanical lift pump together. Neither pump should override the other, but it could help keep you from getting stranded.

Now that you suggested it, maybe I can make a setup that allows me to insert an electric pump into the system that i can use in an emergency. Need two shut off valves, two T's, pump and fuel hose to make it. Will put it on the to do list for later.

 

[scottladdy]

Any drawbacks or concerns with running the two in series?

 

[Westech]

I run a lift pump back by the fuel tank and still use the factory block mounted pump. Very eZ to bleed after filter changes and faster starting.

 

[goldneagle]

I run a lift pump back by the fuel tank and still use the factory block mounted pump. Very eZ to bleed after filter changes and faster starting.

Do you have it wired with the key switch or a manually operated switch on the dash? Brand and model of pump? Any other pertinent info I can use? There is a T connection on the frame on the passenger side. It might be easier for me to install it there.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Zev, you **should** be able to use an entire drop in fuel pump and hanger assembly from a 93' Chevy half ton pickup. It should drop right into the fuel tank. Otherwise you will need to find the frame mounted cartridge style pump. Either way it needs to be run directly inline with the existing fuel system so it doesn't push fuel back to the tank through the supply line, which it might if you plumb it into a T in the line. The best plan of attack is to just plumb the electric pump straight in line. If either pump fails this way, neither should restrict fuel flow to the other. Wire the electric pump to a keyed power source.

 

[Drock]

I finished painting the truck today. I started by unbolting the tool box mounted behind the cab. I then wiped down the surface with surface prep and primed some exposed spots. I got the top painted and then painted around the back window. I also finished painting the passenger side door and rocker panel. Once the paint was dry I used a razor blade to scrape the paint off the rear window as well as the triangle glass on the passenger side. I did not do the windshield yet. will let the paint dry till tomorrow and then scrape it off. I also need to paint the other 2 rims green. I saw some missed spots and will touch them up tomorrow. Here are pictures of the progress.

I liked the yellow bumpers. Kinda reminded me of ah warbird. But then I have strange taste

 

[goldneagle]

Zev, you **should** be able to use an entire drop in fuel pump and hanger assembly from a 93' Chevy half ton pickup. It should drop right into the fuel tank. Otherwise you will need to find the frame mounted cartridge style pump. Either way it needs to be run directly inline with the existing fuel system so it doesn't push fuel back to the tank through the supply line, which it might if you plumb it into a T in the line. The best plan of attack is to just plumb the electric pump straight in line. If either pump fails this way, neither should restrict fuel flow to the other. Wire the electric pump to a keyed power source.

We did the 2nd option you mentioned today. I will detail it later tonight.

Once we replaced the fuel pump push rod (5.3 inches long not the 5.7) the pump primed the system quickly on the first crank. We got the truck to start and run. After a brief discussion my mechanic made some calls and ordered a Universal Inline 12 volt fuel pump and some fuel hose. Once it arrived we put the truck up on the lift and looked for a good place to mount the pump. The mechanic found a spot on the inside of the frame on the passenger side right across from the fuel tank. There was a cover/shield in that spot that the fuel lines went through.

We removed the cover and installed the fuel pump using one of the unused holes in the frame. We took the rubber fuel hose off the metal fuel line and installed a longer line to reach the fuel pump. Once the pump was plumed-in we ran the positive wire to the hood area and through the firewall. The mechanic connected the line for the fuel pump to the fuse panel. The pump runs when the key is in the on position. We then reinstalled the protective cover over the new pump.

Truck now has redundant fuel pumps. It drove great on the way home. A little more pep to it.

 

[goldneagle]

Next project is the HMMWV spare tire carrier mod. It should be here Monday. Weather permitting I will start to modify it to fit the truck Tuesday.

 

[Drock]

You have my attention. Please post pics of this project.

 

[scottladdy]

You have my attention. Please post pics of this project.

Same here!

 

[Lizard Dog]

Impressive work!! Makes for an inspiring thread!

 

[goldneagle]

I discussed the idea of adding a toggle switch on the dash to shut off the electric fuel pump when I am towing the truck. Since I unlock the steering wheel when flat towing the M1008 I did not want the pump to be on the entire trip. He said it was not necessary to go through all the work since I do not plan on flat towing it much in the future (if any). He said I can always pull the fuse to shut it off in that rare case. For now i think I will leave it as is. I can always add the switch later.

 

[Jeepsinker]

If it was my daily driver I would take the column apart and remove the wheel lock pawl. I have done it on all my previously owned civilian vehicles after having one lock up on me turning a corner. I HATE steering wheel locks. If someone wants to steal your vehicle a wheel lock isn't going to stop them.

 

[scottladdy]

If it was my daily driver I would take the column apart and remove the wheel lock pawl. I have done it on all my previously owned civilian vehicles after having one lock up on me turning a corner. I HATE steering wheel locks. If someone wants to steal your vehicle a wheel lock isn't going to stop them.

Is this a common problem? I have not heard of this before.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Somewhat uncommon, but I have seen it more than a few times. Just think, those parts go pretty much unlubricated from the time they leave the assembly line. Now, imagine how many times those parts have actuated even before you got the truck.

 

[goldneagle]

The HMMWV tire carrier cam in today. Sucker is HEAVY! Some serious heavy gauge metal throughout. I knew it had some rust on the arm. When I saw the actual rust I was very surprised. It has some serious craters that are very rough. They don't look like they rusted through. I think it is battle damage! Reminds me of meteor craters. Here is the picture:

 

[Jeepsinker]

If you heat that area with a rosebud it will burn the rust off once it gets red hot, then you can weld up the craters and grind it smooth, then prime and paint.