GovPlanet Humvee Arrival and Inspection

[Maxjeep1]

Alright wow it might actually be the belt. I dripped some water while it was running and the squeak goes away for a few seconds.

I’ll try flipping the belt to go the other direction, if it persists I’ll try a different brand of belt. It just really sounded like an aggressive squeak to be the belt but I guess that’s how things go sometimes. Thank you all!

You are probably ready for a new belt anyways

 

[jake20]

You are probably ready for a new belt anyways

Well the funny thing is that this is in fact a new belt, old one didn’t do this and this one just started doing it recently after I got the AC working. Maybe there’s a little more drag on the compressor now and that’s whats causing it? (It does happen with AC both on and off)

It was pretty tightly bound with kinks when I got it though, could be that it’s a little more worn in now, lettering on it is starting to look smudged and used.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I went thru 2 belts before I got rid of my squeak. Like you said, sounds like it has to be a failed bearing or something mechanical. I put a new belt on it and it stopped for a while. I couldn’t believe that another belt would fix it. I was getting ready to throw expensive parts at it to fix it. Turns out I just needed a new belt. Keep us in the loop

 

[Maxjeep1]

Bottom line is, if you put water on it and it went away that’s a belt. Water doesn’t fix compressors or bearings.

 

[Coug]

Bottom line is, if you put water on it and it went away that’s a belt. Water doesn’t fix compressors or bearings.

but a belt also won't fix a pulley alignment issue.
the extra resistance from the compressor engaging might be pulling something out of alignment.
Check to make sure the rear bracket holding the generator doesn't have a sheared off bolt at the exhaust manifold. That was one of the signs that my PS/Generator bracket wasn't properly secured to the engine block anymore, and whenever the glow plugs pulsed or heavy load was applied to the system, it pulled it further out of alignment, causing belt squeal.

Sheared generator bracket bolts.

When I first got the truck(m1123, 200 amp generator) the stud on the exhaust that holds the rear generator bracket was sheared, and a couple of the front bolts were loose. It started making noise again, so I checked, and the exhaust stud is sheared again, and at least one of the front bracket...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[jake20]

but a belt also won't fix a pulley alignment issue.
the extra resistance from the compressor engaging might be pulling something out of alignment.
Check to make sure the rear bracket holding the generator doesn't have a sheared off bolt at the exhaust manifold. That was one of the signs that my PS/Generator bracket wasn't properly secured to the engine block anymore, and whenever the glow plugs pulsed or heavy load was applied to the system, it pulled it further out of alignment, causing belt squeal.

Sheared generator bracket bolts.

When I first got the truck(m1123, 200 amp generator) the stud on the exhaust that holds the rear generator bracket was sheared, and a couple of the front bolts were loose. It started making noise again, so I checked, and the exhaust stud is sheared again, and at least one of the front bracket...

www.steelsoldiers.com

Adding that to my list of things to check, I'll look closely right after startup as well while the start box is pulsing and surging the generator load. I think I have the mount system in this post, as I recall seeing that thick curved bracket: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/sheared-generator-bracket-bolts.204939/post-2385939

Shall find out soon enough.

 

[jake20]

So I looked very very closely with the truck running, and realized that the new belt has wore itself a tiny new path on the idler pulley. Can see it as the thin black line compared the rest of the pulley being rust colored. The belt doesn’t seem to slide around or be coming off track anywhere else or to any significant amount though. All my pulleys/accessories seem tight and not wobbling. I think I’ll run this a little longer and see if the squeak works itself out?

In other news, some new 100% tread BFG Bajas from CSM Army Tires arrived. Price was good and my current tires are dated as 04 and 07s with plenty of dry rotting. Will see how 2019 Bajas do.

 

[jake20]

All new Bajas are installed, I’d like to say that the ride feels smoother and you don’t feel as much of every small bump on the road.

I’ve been letting the belt wear in some more and it has certainly also gotten quieter, few more hours of runtime and I think it’ll be shut up again.

Also - further sneak peeks of a certain ring mock-up. Got the metal pieces laser cut finally. Have some more measuring to do but it’s coming together.

 

[jake20]

Yippeee, finally have the ring finished and in its final place. I've got the hatch mounted up to test fit, spins freely and my ring takes the weight without issues.

This took a good bit of measuring by the seat of my pants, test fitting, fabrication, and welding, but the end result is fantastic and well worth it. The things we have to go through with the original rings being unobtanium now....

Last steps are to seal it up and install the turret coupla I have coming in a few days.

 

[jake20]

Got the coupla test fitted and it’s perfect Going to fab up some ammo can holders for the sides and a cup holder for the inside of the turret assembly.

Final steps are doors (I’ve been told they should be shipping this week), a paint job, then a few other small cosmetic and mechanical items

Still haven’t decided on paint. It’s between rapco and behr wall paint, never dealt with either and everyone has their opinions on both. Suppose it’ll be a trial by fire with me using a spray gun as well. Going to be keeping the original woodland scheme, just needs a fresh coat.

 

[nairb]

Awesome job so far, keep the updates coming!

 

[jake20]

Anyone need X doors? I’m starting up a premium hand crafted production line.



EDIT: I’m not actually producing and selling cardboard doors

 

[tgejesse]

Anyone need X doors? I’m starting up a premium hand crafted production line.

Only if you charge more than $4k a set!

 

[jake20]

I’ve noticed some light leaks around some of the power steering / transmission cooler lines. I tightened up the hose clamps for now but I want to replace the lines as they’re probably due anyway. Are the hose-clamped lines any special type? Or will the same diameter hose from the auto parts store work? I know the blue one to the hydroboost and a few other are high pressure, not sure about the others.

 

[juanprado]

My recommendation is to use double walled weathered, aero, gates etc hose rated for oil cooler from a napa or real parts store. Retail Parts store will sell you a universal fuel hose and tell ya it will work....

 

[jake20]

My recommendation is to use double walled weathered, aero, gates etc hose rated for oil cooler from a napa or real parts store. Retail Parts store will sell you a universal fuel hose and tell ya it will work....

Yea that’s pretty much what I wanted to avoid by going to one of the typical stores. I’ll yank some of the existing lines and measure the IDs. Looks like Amazon has a few common sizes of gates transmission cooler hose available.

 

[jake20]

Finally have the doors, came in on Monday and more details can be found here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/hmmwv-doors-tops.212672/post-2493231

Also got the turret back on. Spent an entire day just sealing the bearing assembly, made a real mess with the urethane caulk stuff, hopefully should leak minimally. Credit to Damage Control Customs for the shower liner gasket idea. Had some slight fitment issues but nothing a little test fitting and shifting things around couldn't solve.

If anyone wants to see a specific piece or has questions, more than happy to take additional pictures/explain the processes I took

Pics attached

 

[jake20]

Well this is funny, I took it for a drive around the industrial park, noticed some power surging when it was cold. Then it went away after a few minutes.

I get back to my parking lot, decide to sump the fuel in case there were any contaminants/water in the filter housing, truck dies as soon as I pull the sump lever, absolutely no fuel came out either… I was low on fuel so I added 5 gallons in case it got low enough to not reach the pickup in the tank. No luck, won’t start again, no fuel coming out of the sump drain either. No leaks in general around the entire truck.

I figured one of 2 things:

1: Fuel line clogged before the filter
2: Mechanical fuel pump dead


Luckily I was already planning on changing the fuel pump given the age on the existing one, along with some tiny drips I saw several weeks back, so I already had the parts ready to go. I swap the pump and the truck starts up instantly after a few cranks.

In terms of observations between the new and old pump, the black plunger on the new one was much stiffer than the old one. Nothing much else looked different.

I guess when I initially opened the sump, it lost whatever air pressure was keeping fuel flowing to the IP and caused it to die.

Fun stuff, pics attached

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Never open the water seperator petcock unless you ready to have a non-running truck…especially on a Sunday when your ready for a day out in your truck.

 

[jake20]

Never open the water seperator petcock unless you ready to have a non-running truck…especially on a Sunday when your ready for a day out in your truck.

It’s odd because when I first got the truck, I drained a bunch of old gunk out of there through it with the truck running, didn’t shut off. This was before swapping the filter and IP.

This time when I did it, bone dry and not even a drip.

Does the drop in pressure going into the IP when sumping it usually kill the engine? Do you ever touch the water separator at all or just leave it?