Harmonic balancer Questions

[Keith_J]

If the seal isn't leaking, there is no need to change it. Seals ride on a layer of oil, as long as they seal, they shouldn't be changed.

I used the NAPA Service Tools steering wheel and crankshaft puller tool set, UPC number 14994 02291. This is a KD Tools 2291.

Not only does it pull the damper, it can be used to install. The threads on the puller match the crank threads. The hex end is reduced off the threads so it inserts into the crankshaft, then you can use the puller end with an adjustable wrench as a nut to pull the damper onto the crank. Use washers as needed with grease, it will go on.

It is an affordable tool set.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

???

A KD 2291?

That's twelve bucks at Tooltopia.com!

Is that the right one?

That's a no-brainer!

 

[K9Vic]

I know the OP stated he does not have a welder, but for those that do this tool is very simple and cheap to make. Total cost is about $5 for the parts and 10-20 minutes to make the tool. The only bolt that has to be exact is the M16 x 1.5 bolt, the longer one that is welded can be any bolt that will work, longest one they have.

Article on this simple installer tool, near the bottom of the page.
TheDieselPage.com - 6.5L Crankshaft Harmonic Damping - Fluidampr's Viscous Fluid Vibration Damper - Published September 2007

Page #3, shows the tool I made.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/44202-check-your-balencer-3.html

Page #5 shows it being used and Harbor Freight $12 puller kit.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/44202-check-your-balencer-5.html

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Why would you pay $12 for a Horror Fraught puller kit, PLUS $5 for some other parts PLUS 20 minutes of fabrication, when you can buy a good kit for $12?

 

[K9Vic]

Why would you pay $12 for a Horror Fraught puller kit, PLUS $5 for some other parts PLUS 20 minutes of fabrication, when you can buy a good kit for $12?

Really, a steering wheel puller is what you call a good tool for pulling a large harmonic balancer?

Super price on KD Tools 2291 at ToolTopia.com
This tool does not install the balance and you still have to buy the correct M10 - 1.5 bolt to thread into the balancer to pull it on top of the $12. Looking at the bolt sizes, it does not list a M10 1.5 bolt, this is needed to pull the balancer. Plus this is a cheap steering wheel puller that also doubles for a small 4 cylinder balancer puller. I would not use a steering wheel puller on a 6.2L V8 engine's balancer in place of a tool that is specifically designed for the job in hand. Finally it will not install the balancer as it is just a puller.

If you want to use a steering wheel puller go ahead, I will continue to use my Harbor Freight puller kit and my home made tools that really only cost me about $15 total with discounts. I bought the puller kit on sale for $12.99 with a 20% off coupon and the home made installer tool was really only about $4. The puller has the correct M10 - 1.5 bolts and is the correct length. As for the installer I see kits for about $50 with the correct M16 1.5 bolt, I can make a tool for $4 and use it for ever.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I checked around locally for the tool and none of the parts stores around me had one with the correct adapter. I ended up calling a Snap-On guy and was quoted around $70.00 for a Blue Point brand kit that had the 16x1.5 adapter.

You said you got one from NAPA? How long ago? I went there too and was told they didn't have one and one wasn't available.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Really, a steering wheel puller is what you call a good tool for pulling a large harmonic balancer?

Super price on KD Tools 2291 at ToolTopia.com
.

I was going by what Keith_J said in this post.

 

[Keith_J]

Just did another one with the KD Tool 2291 tool. Both pull AND install.

One more time how to do this. Pulling is straight forward. Find the matching bolts, pull the large center bolt and remove the washer, reinstall the bolt flush with the pulley. Install the puller and crank away.

Once removed, slip the new one onto the crank and index the key. Turn the puller around so the hex head of the puller is IN the crank bolt hole. Put the washer on the damper and hand thread the puller INTO the crank, it works because the hex head is machined from the threaded bar. Thread it in at least 5 turns or until it won't go by hand pressure any more.

Now, using a large adjustable wrench, turn the puller body down, forcing the damper onto the crank. Not the fastest but it works fine. A dab of grease on the washer helps.

When it bottoms, loosen the puller and remove the puller, it should come out with finger pressure alone. Install the bolt and torque to 200 foot-pounds.

If you can pull the sheave with hand tools, you can do it without pulling the fan.

 

[m1008chevy]

I know this is an old thread, but I was changing my balancer today and the KD 2291 tool is great for pulling the Harmonic Balancer. Installing it I noticed that it only turns a few times before it seems to bottom out, so I pulled it out and compared threads with the Harmonic Balancer bolt and they are different sizes ( seem to be the same pitch ). Using this tool to install the Harmonic Balancer is no different than just using the balancer bolt to pull it on all the way on because you are only using the first few threads of the crank shaft. Just wanted to give everyone researching like myself a warning before they go out and buy this tool. Thanks.

 

[donalloy1]

My harmonic balancer is getting bad. Time to replace. I have read the TMs, and understand the procedure. What I am worred about is the fact that no one can find a installation tool short of fabricating one. I dont have a welder. I may be able to get a shop to make it for me. What bolt exactly do I need to do the replacement myself? Do any chain stores have a rental kit that works? I really am sweating this one. My marks on my balancer havent shifted, but it has about 1/16" of wobble front to back. Is that really bad?

I know it has been quite some time for Erik. But as far as I can see his wear question has never been answered.

How do we know if its worn out and time to replace? Mine oscillates a little but not bad.

 

[dependable]

I know it has been quite some time for Erik. But as far as I can see his wear question has never been answered.

How do we know if its worn out and time to replace? Mine oscillates a little but not bad.

If it oscillates at all, it is time to replace. Remember, the rubber between the metal is 30 years old. It is a fairly cheap and easy job compared to replacing a motor.

 

[m1008chevy]

Luckily the Fastnel near me had a 3 FT threaded rod (M16x1.5), I cut that and got two nuts and a couple of washers and it went on really easily. No need for a welder, or any other special tools for that matter. If you have a Fastnel near you, im sure that they will be able to order one in if they don't have it in stock.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Fastenal is my new favorite store. Lots of good stuff at low prices. If they don't have it, they can get it.

 

[Keith_J]

Again, the STEERING WHEEL and pulley puller worked fine. This time, it is the timing chain that needs renewal. This task is the easiest on the list, thanks to the puller.

i have two, one I use daily for flywheel pulling, older Kohler Courage and current Briggs and Stratton flywheels come right off with it

 

[m1008chevy]

The steering wheel puller doesn't thread into the crankshaft more than a couple of turns. If you compare the thread pitch, its different. Get a m16x1.5 nut and try to thread it onto that steering wheel puller. I guarantee it will not go on more than a couple of turns. If your willing to risk screwing up the first couple of threads on your crankshaft, then by all means use the steering wheel puller like Keith_J is recommending. I personally didn't want to take the risk, so I went out a bought the correct thread pitch rod. I am just trying to make users that are looking into changing the balancer aware. Thanks.