Having a fuel tank made

[juddspaintballs]

For the bobber, I'm going to use a custom fuel tank in the bed. It will need to be made by a professional welder because I'm not that good. Should I have it made from aluminum or steel? This tank will require more metal than contained in a single 4x8 sheet of material, so I'm probably looking at purchasing two sheets of whatever it's made from. Aluminum has the advantage that it's unlikely it will ever develop a leak from water being in the bottom of the tank, but it's also very expensive and expensive to have welded as well. Steel would be much cheaper, but heavier and prone to rusting from the inside out.

What do you think?

Also, should I draw my fuel from the top of the tank with a dip tube or should I draw from the bottom in a sump style?

 

[spicergear]

Steel. Unless you're planning on having like a couple gallons of water in so the fuel slosh will still never see any oil to the bottom of the tank...I don't think you'll have to worry about it rusting out from the inside. A top pick up would keep any fuel lines higher from any debris or off road items that could snag a low line. Depends on where you mount it.

 

[juddspaintballs]

The tank is going to be in the bed up against the front wall so it's almost against the back of the cab. I'm not worried about a low line getting snagged since the line will never be lower than the frame rails and even when it's that low, it will be tucked inside the frame rail.

 

[59apache]

in the bed will require heavy armor...unless you never transport something in the bed
my suggestion: move the bed back and mount the tank in the gap between cab and bed.

go to a pro tankbuilder...he knows how to make it... you need formed ends cause they don't break easy at the welds.

The original in tank pump ist a advantage in my opinion...if you run out of fuel, you will love it.

 

[BadMastard]

two cents? if you're mounting a tank there, and it's aluminum and brand new, you should be able to keep that puppy very clean. I'd go with a bottom tap, which would also mean you have gravity on your side for pressure. Not that we NEED a tank pump with the deuce, but every little bit helps. I'd also include a drain valve if you are going multifuel. I always thought it would be nice to drain the tank if you get one full of crap.

I'd agree with 59Apache, tank builder. Might have an idea or two as well.

 

[59apache]

Youre right, ou don't need the pump...if you runout of fuel, you'll love it.....open the valve at the first filter, let the pump run, that's it.
Happen to me twice, and i'm happy to have the pump. (actually it was broken and i fixed it...everybody told me you don't need it )

btt.

you will also need baffles in the tank.

Maybe split it in two tanks in one case? one for pure diesel , one for WVO? Or if your heavy offroading , you can switch to the other half, then one side is sucking air.

 

[kc4wd]

A tank in the bed....Sounds like it will be a pain filling it up. Will you be able to reach it standing on the running board at the door?

 

[juddspaintballs]

A tank in the bed....Sounds like it will be a pain filling it up. Will you be able to reach it standing on the running board at the door?

What running board at the door? It's got nothing below the frame rails except axle now. The fenders are cut to the bottom of the cab and the cab is the first step from the ground. Fuel tank, tool box, and batteries are all going in the bed. It's a toy, not a daily driver.

I was thinking of doing a top tap with a dip tube and a pump for primary fuel delivery, but have a bottom tap plumbed in with a manual valve for gravity feed as a backup.

 

[MidnightDuramax]

Im pretty sure that DOT laws say that in needs to have a draw tube set up from the top. This would be due to the fact if a line broke or formed a leak it wont drain the enitre tank.

 

[dittle]

If you're worried about rust you can always take it to one of the shops that specialize in coating the inside of fuel tanks. Don't know what it costs but would get rid of that worry for you.

 

[cranetruck]

If I had the bucks, it'd be aluminum for sure. Install baffles inside and an inspection opening(s). Also openings for a level sending unit, extra fittings for a drain and a future in-tank pump, you never know.

If you use steel, get it professionally coated on the inside.

 

[mudguppy]

honestly, why don't you just get a used low-profile transfer / secondary tank that you see in pickups? i know the tall ones would look bad, but the low-pro cross-bed tanks likely wouldn't be seen.

heck, for what you're going to be paying for material and this welder's build time, i wouldn't be surprised if you're close to the price of a new one. i'd be hitting up c-list and fleaBay for used ones of these.

 

[A/C Cages]

Instead of making a tank, you can pick up premade ones at your local tractor or farm supply dealers for alot less. Many farm tanks are perfect size and fit for up there and they are pre fitted too. Most these tanks also have protective covering on them.

 

[73m819]

What running board at the door? It's got nothing below the frame rails except axle now. The fenders are cut to the bottom of the cab and the cab is the first step from the ground. Fuel tank, tool box, and batteries are all going in the bed. It's a toy, not a daily driver.

I was thinking of doing a top tap with a dip tube and a pump for primary fuel delivery, but have a bottom tap plumbed in with a manual valve for gravity feed as a backup.

One thing with GRAVITY, is if the shutoff is IN, then fuel will be flowing to the ip and the whole fuel system will be under pressure (a little but still pressure), with a chance of leaking into the crankcase, ask Wreckerman if this can happen.

With the tank higher then the engine, there is NO NEED for a LIFT pump (tank pump) as there is no lift

 

[juddspaintballs]

I've looked at pre-made tanks. There's one tank that almost fits the dimensions I'm looking for, and it's made of aluminum, but it doesn't have all of the fittings I'd need. If I bought it, I'd still have to modify it to work. That tank plus shipping is upwards of $600.

Ron, are you saying that if I use gravity feed, when I shut down the truck, if I leave the shut off lever in the in position, that fuel would be forced into my crankcase? I normally leave the shut off lever in the out position when I shut down anyways. Would that eliminate that entire possible problem?

 

[Nonotagain]

Judd, try Crazy Rays salvage yards. I know that they also deal in trucks.

The final place I'd look is a boat supply place like West Marine.

 

[73m819]

I've looked at pre-made tanks. There's one tank that almost fits the dimensions I'm looking for, and it's made of aluminum, but it doesn't have all of the fittings I'd need. If I bought it, I'd still have to modify it to work. That tank plus shipping is upwards of $600.

Ron, are you saying that if I use gravity feed, when I shut down the truck, if I leave the shut off lever in the in position, that fuel would be forced into my crankcase? I normally leave the shut off lever in the out position when I shut down anyways. Would that eliminate that entire possible problem?

yes should work., not saying it will be forced into the crankcase, but can happen, as I said, ask WM. about it and solvent, he lost a 250

 

[m16ty]

Top feed or bottom feed won't really matter. With the tank higher than the IP, if you break a line or have fuel shutoff problems fuel will still leak out with a top feed. It will siphon out.

I'd definitely go with AL if I could afford it.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Why not just mount the stock Deuce fuel tank in the box? It already has all the proper fittings and fuel pump it, that the truck requires.

Also, what are the dimensions of the fuel tank that you are wanting to be made?

 

[juddspaintballs]

Stock tank doesn't let me put a full sheet of plywood in the bed.

I stopped by a welder today and gave him dimensions of 55 wide, 24 tall, and 13 deep. He's going to work up prices on steel and aluminum. He also said he could modify a pre-built tank if that ends up being cheaper.