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You may need to stick a wire into it, if its plugged up. But its not a problem.
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Hello - new MEP-803a owner here
- Thread starter pstansel74
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Even if that gets wasted, it's better than a full tank (or more if AUX is being used) being wasted when the existing one leaks the first time you run it overnight & it decides to spew. Then you are out the fuel & power. Changing them out is not fun no matter the route you go, but making sure it is done right, you won't even need to worry about it leaking again.Ok so tomorrow I'm going to try taking it apart and doing the fuel lines. Any pointers for them? How do I get them all off? And anything I should do in addition? I have the fuel tank nuts but seeing as I just put 3 gallons in I don't want to pull the tank if I don't have toDiesel is expensive! I will figure it out but thought I should ask!
2Pbfeet
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Better to drain the tank now when you have time and control, than later when you might not. I would suggest that as this generator is new to you, while you are changing the tank nuts, check for debris, slime, and crud in the tank, and wipe the inside clean. No sense in washing crud into your filters or worse.Ok so tomorrow I'm going to try taking it apart and doing the fuel lines. Any pointers for them? How do I get them all off? And anything I should do in addition? I have the fuel tank nuts but seeing as I just put 3 gallons in I don't want to pull the tank if I don't have to
There are several threads here that cover changing the fuel lines, but in general, they are just fuel lines.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
pstansel74
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So I got it disassembled it except the fuel lines. They scare me a little. @CallMeColt do I need a heat gun or do I just pull the tubes off and on? The petcock worked great. The bolts to get the muffler off were a PITA though!
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Pull, yank, cut. Doesn't matter. They're designed to bond after some head cycles to seal well. It's why those plastic tees are a throw away item in my opinion.
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The hoses are on barbs, so don't cut those
pstansel74
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What size hose clamps do you use? I am having trouble finding 1/8inch.
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On return lines, I use zip ties at each line end. On the main lines to the metering pumps, you can use hose clamps effectively. Just find some 1/4" - 7/8" hose clamps, most auto parts stores, ag supply stores with bolt bins, etc will have hose clamps. You may be able to reuse the compression fittings for the pump side, and only use a hose clamp at the top feed side where the line interfaces with the rigid fuel delivery line.
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None are needed with the OEM line as it is return line, not feed line. It will "bond" after a heat cycle or two & seal up. For piece of mind, a zip tie will do but again, not needed. It's why they're hard to pull off after they have been on. If you are using something else, get something that is the right OD for that fuel line, just don't over tighten. These don't get more than 10ish psi.
pstansel74
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Success! I got it cranked and running. Still bits and bobs to replace but it was a good start to hear it running and not have it spitting fuel! Next up is testing the electric generation and taking a run up to Mass.
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They sure are nice when they are running right
pstansel74
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So I buttoned it back up... then decided to test it. Sigh. Everything works great at the panel once I replaced the fuel gauge but I have no power out. Took a deep breath and walked away for a bit. I tried flipping the interrupt switch before anyone asks I will get my voltmeter out and test it more fully but the convenience outlets at least were dead. I reaaally was afraid of the wires!
I will get my voltmeter out and test it more fully but the convenience outlets at least were dead. I reaaally was afraid of the wires!
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What setting do you have the voltage/phase selection switch set to behind the gauge panel? And does your hertz gauge register? How about the voltage gauge... showing any voltage? Where is your AM/VM switch set on the gauge panel?
The convenience outlet has a resettable breaker on it as well.. tell us what the gauges show, if anything.
The convenience outlet has a resettable breaker on it as well.. tell us what the gauges show, if anything.
pstansel74
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It is 120/240 1ph behind the panel. L3-L1 1 phase on the front. Gauge shows 220. 60hz on the other gauge. Nothing showing for the percent rated current.
I tried the various resets on the panel and didn't see anything but I didn't find one specific to the convenience outlets. Guess I need to look in the manual a bit.
I tried the various resets on the panel and didn't see anything but I didn't find one specific to the convenience outlets. Guess I need to look in the manual a bit.
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The PRC gauge should be registering zero if power is not leaving the machine. Your machine IS generating power though, so breathe easy there. The trick is to now get it out of the machine.
When you engage the circuit interrupt switch on the gauge panel, does the green bulb light up?
When you engage the circuit interrupt switch on the gauge panel, does the green bulb light up?
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The reset is on the side of the fault panel, flip the gauge panel down and look at the visible side of the fault panel, should be towards the bottom.
pstansel74
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Ahhh ok I will check it out. The green bulb does light up when I engage the power interrupt.
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Getting warmer... I think you are going to end up pulling the cover over the gauges and cleaning the AC contactor box, which resides behind the wall with the S8 switch. That box, when voltage is applied, is what transfers power down to the lugs. Its known to get hung up by corrosion.
pstansel74
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Thank you, will give it a look!
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Start with the easy stuff. Reset the 120 volt convenience outlets. Read the book a little more.
If the DS7, (ACV output light) comes on, then the K1, (AC circuit interrupter relay) is getting 24 VDC. Yes they hang up. But in the norm, when that happens, the green light will not come on. So, as LITD wrote, you need to take the top cover off and look at K1. The fat wire from the left side of K1 should be the input. Measure ACV from ground to all three wire. You should get 120 VAC on all three. Push S7, (AC output switch) up, the DS7 should light up. Then make the same measurements on the right side of the K1. What do you get?
If the DS7, (ACV output light) comes on, then the K1, (AC circuit interrupter relay) is getting 24 VDC. Yes they hang up. But in the norm, when that happens, the green light will not come on. So, as LITD wrote, you need to take the top cover off and look at K1. The fat wire from the left side of K1 should be the input. Measure ACV from ground to all three wire. You should get 120 VAC on all three. Push S7, (AC output switch) up, the DS7 should light up. Then make the same measurements on the right side of the K1. What do you get?