HEMMT to Deuce adapter plate mounting.

[Gleeser]

I read a thread earlier about mounting the plates in the HEMMT wheels. The plates could be mounted on either side of the wheel for the fronts. There was some debate about this working correctly but I didn't see much resolution. 99% of the wheels I see are mounted with the plate on the back side of the wheel. Are you guys switching the studs to something else or using the stock studs and just knocking them out and reinstalling them like a bolt?

If not, let me know what you are doing. I'd rather the plate was on the backside of the wheel but I don't want it to be some sort of issue down the road. The plates I am running came from Roger Spurgeon out in Ohio.(probably spelled that wrong) The holes for the studs are larger than the pressed in shoulder of the HEMMT studs, that's why I ask.

The way this is put together is what I am talking about:


I did my rears like his too.

 

[drgreg]

That looks like a welded insert to me.

 

[Gleeser]

OK, even if that picture is a welded one, it shows basically what I'm talking about I guess the plate being on the inside rather than the outside.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I think the wheels look better with the plate in the back, but it is much easier if you put the plate on the front. If you put the plate on the back, yes you have to knock out the studs and insert them through the plate and tighten like bolts. A 1" open end wrench will hold the stud "heads" while you run the nut on with an impact. Call if you have more questions.

 

[Hooty481]

Hey I picked up a set of wheels from the same guy and got ready knock the studs out and put them in the other way but as you may have figured out the studs arent big enough. What did you decide to do? I really want them to act like studs but is there anything else to do?

 

[73m819]

Why not just replace them with LONGER studs

 

[Hooty481]

its not the length it the splins that actually keep the stud from turning

 

[paradeduty]

I think the adapter plates you guys have are only intended to be installed on the front of the HEMTT wheels. Another guy - Mike - out of Michigan - went through great lengths to punch or drill the holes the correct size to reinstall the studs in the plates for installation on the back of the rims. I have never done it but talked to him about it - might want to check with him (I think he has a classified ad).

 

[13 MIKE]

So did you buy separate plates,and wheels, or welded center wheels? Are you saying the hole in the plate is too big for the splines to catch?

 

[Hooty481]

here are some pictures wheels and plates came from same place

 

[Hooty481]

and yea i forgot to mention that the hole is to big for the splins to catch

 

[Unforgiven]

With the pure bolted plates, the studs from the inboard section of the HEMTT rims have to be removed, then reinserted through both the adapter plate & the inboard section.

What people were concerned with was whether the splined shoulder of the studs were long enough to securely engage in the inboard half of the HEMTT rim.

Certainly longer-shouldered studs would answer this concern.

Personally, I think Mike13's plates coupled with welding would be very strong. The plates would keep the adapter centered to the rim during the welding. In addition, minimal trimming of the center of the HEMTT rims would allow bolts or studs to be put through the HEMTT 10 lug holes.

I'm a big fan of bolting anything structural if it has to be welded.

The only thing better would be a 10 lug hub that fits the 2.5 ton axle.

 

[gimpyrobb]

As stated earlier in this thread, you need to use a 1" open ended wrench(on the stud) if you are using the plates in the back of the rims.

 

[13 MIKE]

Theres your answer.

 

[Hooty481]

I thought there might be a safer way to do it. I wasn't sure how safe it was for those to be able to spin verses the splines that originally held them in place.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Once I got mine cinched close, they held on their own. I still believe its not worth the effort to put the plates in the back, but understand it looks better.

 

[Hooty481]

its not that i want to put the plates in the back but that i want to turn the wheel dish out and see the bolt heads and not stud ends... I think the plate should be on the outside of the wheel so just in case the bolts on the wheels come loose the lug nuts will keep it all on the axel wich will prob. never happen but it makes me feel a little better

 

[13 MIKE]

The bolts on the outside have at least 5 times the clamping pressure as the lugs. If torqued properly, you won't have an issue. Somebody correct me if wrong but i believe it 450 ftlb's.

 

[gringeltaube]

If.... the studs were grade 8 quality and all nuts were grade "G" (two are not...) then according to this chart: http://www.imperialinc.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf ,
they should be torqued to 270 ft-lb dry.
=> 33,600 lbs clamp load each, x16 = 240+ tons pressing both wheel halves together!

G.

 

[Unforgiven]

But all that pressure is located on the outer circular bolt ring. The original HEMTT rims have both halves clamped via the lug studs as well.

That means all the stress of the rotating tire goes through the adapter plate all the way from the hub to the outer bolt circle.

Don't get me wrong. I think Mike did a fantastic job with the plates.

But if it were possible I think using the HEMTT 10 lug pattern to further clamp the adapter & welding the inboard side of the rim to the adapter would be much stronger. The radial distance from the 6-lug hub to 10-lug holes is significantly smaller. There would be less potential flexing of the adapter plate under highway-speed turning. There's a reason why wheels are pressed instead of welded from mild steel.