Are they both flashing?
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Here We Go Again Low Voltage M1009
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jplace1011
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@Squibbly No they just stay on when I turn the lights On. The Signals still work when I use them.
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Your hazard button isn't pushed in is it?
Try pushing it in, check all your flashers (especially front left) to make sure they are working, then pull the hazard button back out.
If one of them isn't flashing, the bulb is probably bad, or there is a bad ground (clean the flasher bulb sockets).
If they all work and the internal lights are on and the hazard isn't pushed in, you've got a bad ground or a short.
Not sure at that point.
ezgn
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Check and clean all your grounds on all of your external lights. Check to see if your front side lights blink and come on when your headlights are on. Check all your bulbs while your at it. Most likely a corroded or loose ground. Start there first and see what happens. If it does not solve your problem, at least you know you have eliminated any grounding problems in the future, and your lights should burn brighter. Do both front and rear lights.
jplace1011
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@Squibbly here are the Alternator Test Results. The Passengers Side Alt is Low Right?
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What alternator does that nicked cable go to?@Squibbly here are the Alternator Test Results. The Passengers Side Alt is Low Right?
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jplace1011
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Your alternator won't work with the key turned if that exciter wire is cut. Pull that plug, and test the end of it with the key turned to see if you're getting 12v to it.
I'd cut it, strip the wires and reconnect them to see if it solves the problem. If it does just solder them together and heat shrink for now until your new cable comes in, or wire nut them together, and add electrical tape to hold it for now.
jplace1011
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@Squibbly That’s a plan, I’ll just install the new plug tomorrow and then re-test it.
All the Lights seem to be working. The lights were working fine until I cleaned the Cable Ends and Buss Bars yesterday.
The stripped Bolt on the Negative Buss Bar has a Cable attached to it. That Cable Runs out of the Engine Compartment, along the Frame (Passengers Side) and back up into the Rear Cab area. I wonder if that might be the Grounding Issue for the Lights??
I have already ordered a New Bus Bar and will replace it. Let’s see if that does the trick.
I’ll report back tomorrow everyone. Thank You for all the help! I’d be sunk without you and your wisdom!!
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I don't think a bus bar "goes bad". It's just a junction so other items in the car can use the batteries without having to have 90 wires connected to the battery posts directly.
Your "going back to the last thing I touched before it broke" strategy is a good troubleshooting technique though.
jplace1011
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You definitely want that one tight as that is the negative bus bar cable. If you have a washer that will fit over that post you can use it to fill the gap between the nut and the cable connector. Electricity can't complete the circuit if electrons can't get from the Positive side of the power source through the circuit and back to the negative side.
I suspect that if you tested 3 generators in that spot and they all came back bad, it's probably that you're getting no voltage to that wire and it's not letting the regulator in the generator convert the AC voltage to DC without that signal. I'm not there, so I can only guess.
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jplace1011
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@Squibbly a Washer to fill the Gap. What a fantastic idea. I have one of those measuring tools to measure bolt sizes. It’s paper so I don’t have to unplug the batteries. I’ll measure the Bolt so I know what size Washer to get. I’ll get to Home Depot and get a washer.You definitely want that one tight as that is the negative bus bar cable. If you have a washer that will fit over that post you can use it to fill the gap between the nut and the cable connector. Electricity can't complete the circuit if electrons can't get from the Positive side of the power source through the circuit and back to the negative side.
I suspect that if you tested 3 generators in that spot and they all came back bad, it's probably that you're getting no trigger voltage to that wire on the regulator and it's not letting the generator charge anything. I'm not there, so I can only guess.
Thank you for the idea!! It’s worth a try! One more thing I can do while I replace the Plug.
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Keith_J
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The loose negative cable which runs to the back is for communication radio power. It may be an issue if another cable going to ground shares that stripped fastener.
jplace1011
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@Keith_J that’s a great thought man! I’ll see what exact cables are attached to that stripped Bolt.
Out of curiosity I wonder if there’s a Main Cable that goes to that or any other Bolt? As in Main Cable for the entire Blazer, or for all the Electrical stuff, etc. It seems like I remember reading about that somewhere sometime ago.
Thank you for the input, I’ll report back manana.
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Keith_J
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I do belive the charging issue is voltage to the regulator is wonky. Disconnect the 2 wire connection, measure voltage on each wire to ground key on engine off. Both should be both battery voltage sum..25 to 25.5.
jplace1011
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@Keith_J p.s. that stripped Bolt has 2 cables attached: One that runs along the frame to the back, the other goes to the Front Battery. There’s also that burned out wire for communications that everyone says I can remove.
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cucvrus
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You have 2 indicator lights lit in the dash cluster? That indicates a dead bulb or a bulb that is inoperable. If I had to guess I would say the front turn lamps are not connected properly, ungrounded, or both lights are dead. Check all that out. I can tell you these old trucks can be a Royal PITA when something goes wrong and you have limited skills. Good Luck.
ezgn
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That is Louise Fletcher in the movie, Flowers in the Attic. Worth a watch!
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