I have a set of oem X doors I may be selling. I should know more in the next few days. Pm me if interested.
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HMMWV Doors/ Tops
- Thread starter FMFHMMWV
- Start date
- 70
- 169
- 33
- Location
- Prosper TX
Hi, I bought a set of 4 from Kentucky. Good customer service. Doors seem sturdy, 1/4in thick fg and all standard fittings. I mounted them but presently painting the truck so not much usage.
Interesting note, when closed it is almost impossible for my wife to open them. The latches are too stiff.
The weather stripping is compressed when closed witch I suppose will help keep the water out but causes strain on the latches.
I will need to get some ex mil buddies over to see what their opinion is on the latch stiffness.
Others here with these doors, thoughts on the latch stiffness?
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Yep same thing here, push on the door with the opposite hand when you pull on the paddle latch.
Had a buddy bend my front right passenger paddle latch pivot points due to this, that being said, west Kentucky is shipping me a new latch free of charge. Good service but product could be a bit better refined.
Alternatively, you can oval out the rear striker holes slightly towards the edge of the truck, will require less force to latch and open then, but a worse weather seal.
As far as the front holes go, you’re kind stuck with where the strikers sit as it’s part of the B pillar support holes.
Also, very lightly grease the window sliding channels, otherwise you’ll be cursing trying to close them while driving lol
I’ve got 8 more doors that I’m installing onto 2 more trucks, will post any other tips I come up with when I deal with those.
Had a buddy bend my front right passenger paddle latch pivot points due to this, that being said, west Kentucky is shipping me a new latch free of charge. Good service but product could be a bit better refined.
Alternatively, you can oval out the rear striker holes slightly towards the edge of the truck, will require less force to latch and open then, but a worse weather seal.
As far as the front holes go, you’re kind stuck with where the strikers sit as it’s part of the B pillar support holes.
Also, very lightly grease the window sliding channels, otherwise you’ll be cursing trying to close them while driving lol
I’ve got 8 more doors that I’m installing onto 2 more trucks, will post any other tips I come up with when I deal with those.
- 755
- 1,331
- 93
- Location
- Highland, Indiana
Just had my West Kentucky surplus doors delivered last Friday. I'm a little disappointed that I have to actually drill the hinges out. U think for 4k it would of already been done. Also no installation instructions for door strikers.
Doesn’t come with striker mounting hardware either. Just the strikers themselves.Just had my West Kentucky surplus doors delivered last Friday. I'm a little disappointed that I have to actually drill the hinges out. U think for 4k it would of already been done. Also no installation instructions for door strikers.
Same situation here. Rivets not done well. For 1k a door, quality should be a little better.
I had the same opinion at first but every humvee is so different that it does actually make sense to have to drill them out yourself. If not, would be a pain to line everything up I’d think.Just had my West Kentucky surplus doors delivered last Friday. I'm a little disappointed that I have to actually drill the hinges out. U think for 4k it would of already been done. Also no installation instructions for door strikers.
Attached a few photos of my striker setup, lemme know if you’ve got any questions, I provided some instructions earlier in this thread as well.
Run a vacuum cleaner when drilling the fiberglass, dust is super fine.
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Yep I went to ace hardware and got a ton of hardware for it all, get a bunch of assorted sizes of bolts and washers to make life easier. Main size I used for 1/4” bolts for the hinge mounts to the A and B pillars. 5/16 for the B pillar striker, and 1/4 for the C pillar strikers
- 755
- 1,331
- 93
- Location
- Highland, Indiana
Thanks! That helps out! I have read your post over and over. Good stuff.
Happy to help, if anyone wants any specific pictures of how I did something lemme know
- 70
- 169
- 33
- Location
- Prosper TX
When mounting the front plates I chose to trim that al piece to make a nice flat surface. On the back plates, the existing holes in the al were large so I had to use a couple of different size washers. The back plate slots are for 1/4in bolts. Would have been nice if they were 3/8in instead.
For bolts etc, since my truck wad complete except sans armor, there were a lot of holes to fill. I used mainly 3/8in and 7/16in by 3/4 and 1in long. I used exclusively nylon lock nuts and did not use any lock washers unless going into existing threaded holes.
I chose to buy stainless bolts rather than plated.
For bolts etc, since my truck wad complete except sans armor, there were a lot of holes to fill. I used mainly 3/8in and 7/16in by 3/4 and 1in long. I used exclusively nylon lock nuts and did not use any lock washers unless going into existing threaded holes.
I chose to buy stainless bolts rather than plated.
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I second this, only use nylon lock nuts unless you want things falling apart from how much these trucks shake lol
I bought these rear striker plates for the same issue. Hoping these will work!
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- 755
- 1,331
- 93
- Location
- Highland, Indiana
What a bummer just emailed West Kentucky surplus about a crack in the back door. Hopefully I get this replaced, this sets back my painting.
- 1,031
- 1,833
- 113
- Location
- WOBURN. MA.
How thin is the fiberglass? Disturbing to find cracks on a new item. Box damaged at all? I feel for you.
Mark
Mark
- 755
- 1,331
- 93
- Location
- Highland, Indiana
No box damage whatsoever so this had to have been seen when they wrapped it. The fiberglass is pretty thick actually.
- 6,017
- 8,413
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
Not a crack that I can see, looks like they got careless with the rivet gun, does not look to be serious enough to warrant a replacement IMHO
- 1,031
- 1,833
- 113
- Location
- WOBURN. MA.
If it is just a chip in the clearcoat then is not a big deal at all. They sure are smoother than the X-Doors but I would like to see someone compare them side to side. Use a good eatching primer and don't forget to wipe down the doors with a tack cloth before spraying enything.
Mark
Mark
- 755
- 1,331
- 93
- Location
- Highland, Indiana
This is more than careless with the rivet gun. This is a huge void of fiberglass missing. They are replacing. Adam is the man! Good customer service!
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- 1,031
- 1,833
- 113
- Location
- WOBURN. MA.
That never should have made it to a shipping box. Quality control needs to greatly improve. That would really tick me off.
Mark
Mark
- 755
- 1,331
- 93
- Location
- Highland, Indiana
At 4k you think they would of looked it over before they sent. There is only one company in Canada I guess that is making these doors.