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HMMWV tires

kingsley

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HMMWV Rim Source

I found a good source for the parts to convert 8 bolt HMMWV rims to CUCV rims. Daniel@ www.usa6x6.com . I purchased the rims converted to 6 holes. I will let you know how they look and perform.
 

AJMBLAZER

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Re: HMMWV Rim Source

kingsley said:
I found a good source for the parts to convert 8 bolt HMMWV rims to CUCV rims. Daniel@ www.usa6x6.com . I purchased the rims converted to 6 holes. I will let you know how they look and perform.
I think you mean CUCV Blazer rims. The CUCV pickups use the same 8 lug pattern as the HMMWV.

Did he change the backspacing for you? HMMWV rims have a decent bit of backspacing, more so than the stock rims of GM trucks of that era.
 

M1075

Active member
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Oklahoma City
Re: HMMWV Rim Source

kingsley said:
I found a good source for the parts to convert 8 bolt HMMWV rims to CUCV rims. Daniel@ www.usa6x6.com . I purchased the rims converted to 6 holes. I will let you know how they look and perform.
Let us know how it works out. It seems strange to see them referred to as a "good source". :lol:
 

AJMBLAZER

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Re: HMMWV Rim Source

M1075 said:
Let us know how it works out. It seems strange to see them referred to as a "good source". :lol:
Nice to know I'm not the only one who remembers the old days. I've seen usa4x4's efforts to rebuild his image but still am apprehensive.
 

ultim8gamr

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AJMBLAZER said:
The problem is that your springs have sagged. You can't just "rearch" springs so that they're good as new. All you really end up with is a diminished capacity set of springs that have been forced into a more "upright" position that will sag rather quickly due to the original leaves having lost their original arc. The leaf pack is also now less flexible due to being forced into this new "shape" so your road ride and offroad flex will suffer.
All the add-a-leaf does is add some more capacity to the diminished pack and force the leaves above it into an arc shape.

If you do get an aal the best ones are the longer ones. Less stress on the pack and less ride harshness.

.
How much will the rear springs with all those leaves usually sag for most over the years? i just bought a shackle flip for the rear and 4" springs up front to match so should the back look really tired compared to the front? I know i wont know for sure until its all said and done, but I was just curious of what to expect.
John
 

AJMBLAZER

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Rear springs tend to sag less than the fronts, especially on these trucks. The fronts are actually the same application as the high GVWR diesel 1/2 tons and 3/4 tons while the rears are just about a 1-ton only pack. Meanwhile the front has a 950lb engine sitting on it and the rear has...no 950lb engine...
So unless they towed and hauled the hell out of your truck I'd bet the rear has held up pretty good.

Word of note:
I hear the shackle flip interferes with your rear D-ring shackle mounts. They're attached to your stock shackle mounts in the rear so you have to loose them if you put the shackle flip on. Just a heads up.

Also your axle shifts forward about an inch-inch and a half but that can be corrected with ORD's zero rates.
 

ultim8gamr

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just looked, the square tubes for the D-rings only go to the the end of the framerail (dont even bolt to it). so i shouldnt have any clearance issues. I dont know if im going with zerorates just yet, i have to see how the front wheels fit first. I can live with a wheel that looks a little off center
John

...or am i talking about the wrong d-ring?
 

AJMBLAZER

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In the rear. The D-ring shackles' mounts go forwards to the rear spring hanger setup. Notice the big rivets in the spring hangers that aren't there in the civilian models? These also interfere with putting a regular 2" hitch on these trucks.

The zero rate comment of mine two posts above was meant to inform you that doing the shackle flip pushes your rear tire forwards about an inch due to the shift in the way the spring sits. That's why Steve at ORD originally changed the zero rate design so you could relocate the axle. Sorry, I was a bit unclear.
 

ultim8gamr

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AJMBLAZER said:
In the rear. The D-ring shackles' mounts go forwards to the rear spring hanger setup. Notice the big rivets in the spring hangers that aren't there in the civilian models? These also interfere with putting a regular 2" hitch on these trucks.

The zero rate comment of mine two posts above was meant to inform you that doing the shackle flip pushes your rear tire forwards about an inch due to the shift in the way the spring sits. That's why Steve at ORD originally changed the zero rate design so you could relocate the axle. Sorry, I was a bit unclear.
I knew what you meant be the zero rate stuff. Actually the truck i bought has a 2" class 4 receiver hitch that was installed. the previous owner had to cut away some of the support for the bumper, but the D-Ring stuff doesnt appear to be cut at all and the rear spring shackle hanger looks like its got the original rivets, that dont look too huge.
JR
 

AJMBLAZER

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Any chance you could get some pictures of how they did that? I REALLY need a hitch on mine...


...since I told the wife the reason I was getting it was for a better tow rig. :D
 
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