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How do you drain the air tanks?

TexAndy

Active member
1,427
15
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Location
Bee County, Texas
still happen to have the package-part # is 12105. the label on the plastic doesn't say napa but says Haldex. when my buddy punched in the part # it came up with the price. so it should be a NAPA part #.
Part: MBI 12105 Product Line: Midland Brake Products Price
Unit
:
:
10.59
Each

This one, right?

So does one end have a threaded coupler that fits the tanks, or is that something else you need to buy? If so, does anyone happen to know the correct part number or have details like the correct size and thread count?
 

ctmustang

Member
714
1
18
Location
Thomasville-N.C.
nothing else to buy-just screw out the old one and in with the new. these are really easy to oerate they are almost like a ball on the pull end it will pull easily in any direction.;-)
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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I put a 24v solinoid valve on my tanks. I'll get photos and post soon. Basically, when the truck is shut down, the valve opens and drains the tanks. I don't have to do anything.

I also have 10-12 of those drain valves that Jinx showed in his photo NOS. Anyone need any, PM me. Asking $6 each.
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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Ah, but I'm smarter than the average bear-

The solenoid is Normally Closed. I have a 24v timer circuit, so when I shut off the master switch, it energizes the solenoid for 2 min. then the whole circuit de-energizes.

"So what happens if you bump into the master switch while driving mister smarty bear?"

Ha ha!! :-D There is a cut-out switch in the cab, disconnects the solenoid from the timing circuit, for when I just want to shut the truck off but not drain the air. So if I bump the master, I just have to cut it out, so I won't loose much air.

I'm an insomniac, so I have plenty of time to come up with all this stuff... ;-) I learned early on to keep a notepad and pencil by the bed.
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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Oh, I'm trying to find a better timer, so I can have the drain open ever so often on long trips, for a few seconds, to drain water. Locomotives do that, I stole that idea... :twisted:
 

frodobaggins

Active member
2,861
16
38
Location
Ruston, La
ok, I think I figured it out.

I took the petcock off and cleaned it, lubed it a little, and then put it back on, closed. Then I fired up the engine and ran it until the system pressurized.

Then I went back down and turned the petcock valve and *whoosh* let the air out. So that works.

Apparently, they either lost or broke the other valve. So they replaced it with a PLUG with a little ring and bolt welded onto it for leverage so you could unscrew the plug. Unfortunately, the ring broke, so it just turns freely. I could grip the plug by the threads, but I'd probably end up damaging the threads.

So I'll just wait until I get the aftermarket remote valve kit ya'll mentioned before I remove it and for now just stick with draining with the one petcock valve. Hopefully that'll be enough.

I think you're confused, that ball valve is not stock, the one with the bolt attached to it is stock. (without the bolt)
 

saddamsnightmare

Well-known member
3,618
80
48
Location
Abilene, Texas
MAy 6th, 2009.


Looks like Ferro has a saleable idea..... ANY of our parts guys listening?


Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan

1971 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 Wo/W "Saddam's Nightmare":-D
1963 Swiss Army Cargo Unimog S.404.114:razz:
1968 Johnson Corp M105A2 Cargo Trailer;-)
1967 Hercules MEP023A Gas Gen Set :!:
Hey, how many posts gets you to GEneral?
 
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Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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Actually, I was looking into building a kit to sell.

1. Would many of you guys be interested?

2. What would you pay for a system like that? the timer alone is $30... but I could get them cheaper if I bought in bulk (same with the solenoid) I would have to know it was worth while.

Maybe I'll make up a couple of kits and put them in the classifieds and see how they do?

What do you guys think?
 

Jinx

Buy me a Coke
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Gainesville, Florida
I'm keeping my truck pretty much stock at this moment, but I could see interest in your system. Try building a couple kits and put them up for sale and see what happens.
 

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
Actually, I was looking into building a kit to sell.

1. Would many of you guys be interested?

2. What would you pay for a system like that? the timer alone is $30... but I could get them cheaper if I bought in bulk (same with the solenoid) I would have to know it was worth while.

Maybe I'll make up a couple of kits and put them in the classifieds and see how they do?

What do you guys think?
I'd be interested in testing one out. I use a long wrench on my M35A2s, but the M109A3s could benefit from the mod. I usually send my 13yr old son under to drain the air, so he'd appreciate it!
 

m109guy

New member
383
27
0
Location
ON
Could not find the one on Saturn Surplus after a minute or two of searching . . . but I did find this:
Haldex-Midland Air Tank Drain valve 12104
I found the exact same valve kit at my local large truck dealer (International Trucks). I bought them for $7 each and they come with a 6ft cable you can cut to the length you need.

No modifications needed. Just remove the old ones and screw on the new valves.

The old valves on my truck were so clogged up with junk that they were having a hard time dumping the built up water in the tanks. One of them was also very hard to open and needed a pare of pliers to turn. Plus I didn't like having to crawl under the truck each time to drain them (especially when it is muddy and wet on the ground like today).

This is something everyone should do to their truck(s). It is a very simple, cheap and quick job that could save you a lot of headaches down the road.
 
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m109guy

New member
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0
Location
ON
I took some pictures of my install. New kit works great.

I sent the pull ropes through the pioneer kit rack. It holds them really well, and keeps them at easy reach.
 
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KsM715

Well-known member
5,149
142
63
Location
St George Ks
I took some pictures of my install. New kit works great.

I sent the pull ropes through the pioneer kit rack. It holds them really well, and keeps them at easy reach.

These work when pulled from the side and dont have to be pulled straight down, or straight out with a 90 degree fitting?
 

m109guy

New member
383
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0
Location
ON
These work when pulled from the side and dont have to be pulled straight down, or straight out with a 90 degree fitting?
Yeah these type are made to be pulled from the side, as pretty much all air tanks are mounted in such a way these days that you would pull it from the side. Though I am sure you could modify it if you needed to pull the cable straight down.
 

cranetruck

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,350
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48
Location
Meadows of Dan, Virginia
The xm757 came from factory with spring loaded drain valves. Just pull the wire to drain and release. NSN 2530-00-045-3539 (11601784).
What we really need is a reminder decal on the dash, it's easy to forget this little routine after a drive.
 

Attachments

cranetruck

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,350
75
48
Location
Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Funny, I moved the truck around a little while ago and came in and read your message, which reminded me to drain those tanks......we need to get Gary Berg to make some decals to this effect.... I sure need to be reminded.
 
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