How much frame to take off for a bobber?

[Ma Duce]

I tried searching, but me and that thing don't seem to get along or speak the same langauge.

So when bobbing a duece, how much frame do most guys take off the back end?

Looking at shortening the box, if I cut out 36" of the box, I move the front bulkhead to where the second stake pocket is. But when I was measuring, I was looking at taking off about 30" as i think this gives a better center line location for the rear axel and doesn't shorten it up to much to create excessive wheel hop and a rough ride.

Your experiances and comments please?

 

[Jakob]

I haven't done a bobber, but my instinct tells me that you'd cut off as much frame as you cut out of the bed... if reusing the stock bed, albeit shortened.

 

[ryan77]

I tried searching, but me and that thong don't seem to get along or speak the same langauge.

So when bobbing a duece, how much frame do most guys take off the back end?

Looking at shortening the box, if i cut out 36" of the box, I move the front bulkhead to where the second stake pocket is. But when I was measuring, i was looning at taking off about 30" as i think this gives a better center line location for the rear axel and doesn't shorten it up to much to create excessive wheel hop and a rough ride.

Your experiances and comments please?

Pm Ranchopper hes the Illinois "Bob god" around here!!!!

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

It all depends on what bed you're gonna use and weather or not you're planning to put a straight bumper on or use the original bumperettes. Also do you plan to leave some space between the cab and bed for fuel can mounts on the front of the bed? Most of the usual questions are answered here: How to Bob a Deuce.... In 3 Easy Steps Click on any picture to get details.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I tried searching, but me and that thong don't seem to get along or speak the same langauge.

So when bobbing a duece, how much frame do most guys take off the back end?

Looking at shortening the box, if i cut out 36" of the box, I move the front bulkhead to where the second stake pocket is. But when I was measuring, i was looning at taking off about 30" as i think this gives a better center line location for the rear axel and doesn't shorten it up to much to create excessive wheel hop and a rough ride.

Your experiances and comments please?

I see where the language thing causes a problem. I'm studying your question and as I see it, you like the looks of the bed with one of the 4 sections (36") lopped off. I agree that the bed looks best at that length. Then you suggest 30" as it gives a better centerline for the axle. What are you letting dictate axle location? If you are doing what many do and trying to use the rear drive shaft unmodified, I'd rethink that. Make your bed aesthetically pleasing and balanced for the truck (9' is my favorite) and adjust axle placement accordingly. It will cost you a driveshaft tube but the look is so worth it.

See attached pic for Recovry4x4's idea of a balanced bobbed deuce.

 

[73m819]

I tried searching, but me and that thong don't seem to get along or speak the same langauge.


Your experiances and comments please?

To tight or wrong color

 

[Odyssey M]

Re-attack on the bumper and hitch factor. If you don't factor them in, you will not be able to drop your tailgate a full 180*. This kind of sucks w/ mine. I am now in the process of dropping the hitch lower and removing the bumperettes. My .

 

[ICAT]

Measure twice and cut once

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

I've been planning my bob job since before I recovered my deuce almost 4 months ago. I'm planning to use an M105 bed and springs, but instead of butting the bed up to the cab with the obligatory 2 inch gap, I plan to leave the bogie plates riveted to the truck chassis, remove the trunion castings from the plates and the chassis, and then using the spring section of the trailer frame under the truck chassis using the bogie plates to align and mount the trailer frame section. This will put my single rear axle close to the center point between the existing axles. Once the single axle is mounted, I'll center the wheel wells of the bed above the axle leaving myself about 17 inches between the cab and the bed, where I'll build a custom tool box, gun locker and utility box. Above the box, mounted to the front of the bed will be a set of 5-gallon jerry can holders. Also in the plan is to mount a second stock deuce fuel tank on the left side, and mount the spare tire carrier winch to a crossmember under the bed behind the rear axle.

 

[197thhhc]

We remove 36 inches with a M105 bed and a tight gap at the bed. This will leave the bumperettes in enough to completely lower the tailgate. When we leave a gap for toolboxes etc between the cab and bed we just deduct the gap from 36 and cut that amount.

 

[Ma Duce]

I hate typing from my IPad.

I plan on keeping the bumperetts and wanting to have the tailgate fold down like it does from the factory.

the drive shaft if no biggie as I figured on having to get it lengthened.

And yes I plan on using the stock bed cut down. i think it make s a better looking truck.

I'm not worried about putting fuel cans between the cab and bed. I did think about a 5 ton tire rack at one point but decided against it.

As for the axel placement, it was a combination of how much and what looked right with where things lined up. taking 30" off put the center line of the axel on one of the crossmembers and just seemed to fit.

 

[Bcurtman]

I cut 36" out of mine. I measured 14 times and cut once, but I was also using a M105 trailer for a bed. If you look at my post "getting closer to bob" you can follow what I did. The way I did it may not be the only or best way, but it sure worked out well for me. If you are going to use the stock bed, it is a given that you have to make 2 cuts. Plan these properly and you can retain even distances for your stake pockets, making it look more factory. I had mine all marked out, but I prefer the "stepside" look of the 105 bed myself. I saw another one here recently that moved the axle back 7" for a 60/40 split, and I must say that looks very good and does give you a bit longer wheelbase. I had to lengthen my drivesahft about 6".

 

[badga the badger]

Re-attack on the bumper and hitch factor. If you don't factor them in, you will not be able to drop your tailgate a full 180*. This kind of sucks w/ mine. I am now in the process of dropping the hitch lower and removing the bumperettes. My .

We left about a foot between M105 bed and the cab. Our tailgate doesn't drop all the way either. Thought about eliminating the bumperettes, but they really do seem to be part of the structural integrity itself, so we left it as is.
You do have to be careful on the length when using front deuce springs so the rear mounts do not get in the way of the 45 degree supports running forward from the rear cross member.
Added picsto show what I did to use the bed-cab gap.

 

[badga the badger]

This is what I did to use the gap.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Many different ways to skin a cat. I used an M105 box, but only removed 29 1/4" off the rear frame of the Deuce.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

Once you get the bed off, the bogie and trunion assembly out of the way and get the frame all cleaned up, you have a blank canvas that can be filled in litterally thousands of ways. I've looked at every bobber I could find on yahoo and google image searches. Youtube and ebay have also been sources I've used to look at other people's ideas of what makes the perfect bobbed deuce. Of all the vehicles I've owned, I make it my goal to be different and never have what I'm driving mistaken for someone else's. If I parked my bobbed deuce in a parking lot with 50 other bobbers, I'd want the ability to describe my truck to someone and hear them say "Oh that one's yours? That one's pretty awsome!".
If you're gonna put fourth the effort to turn a deuce into a bobber, throw in a healthy side of creativity and keep in mind you're only limited by your immagination!
The first question you need to ask yourself is "What do I want this truck to do?". Is it gonna be for camping, hunting/fishing, mudding, rock crawling, car show princess, bugout vehicle, etc.? Take whatever roll you want your truck to fill and look at what other people did with thiers. If you're building an excursion rig, search "excursion rigs" on yahoo and google image searches and see the range of accessories and setups. Make a list of what you like and go from there. Like I said before, you're only limited by your immagination. If you don't have a verry good immagination, don't be afraid to talk to someone who does and get lots of feedback. Someone will always come up with something you didn't think of. Above all, if you're gonna make it, make it different and make it yours!

 

[walkerhunter]

I measured from bumperetts to center of rear axel when truck was full size then cut three feet exactly off the frame. I then re measured my distance from rear to center of axle this gave me t he same distance from rear of truck to center of axle. Some thing like a 60 40 ratio 60 percent in front of axle 40 rear. I then cut the bed right in front of the rear most bolster the one that the tailgate mounts to,then i cut right in front of the second to rear bolster this is exactly 36 inches. Mine looks just like factory less one axle.

 

[walkerhunter]

My drive shaft is 7 inches longer than stock it was 137 dollars to have it lengthened and balanced.

 

[plym49]

I measured from bumperetts to center of rear axel when truck was full size then cut three feet exactly off the frame. I then re measured my distance from rear to center of axle this gave me t he same distance from rear of truck to center of axle. Some thing like a 60 40 ratio 60 percent in front of axle 40 rear. I then cut the bed right in front of the rear most bolster the one that the tailgate mounts to,then i cut right in front of the second to rear bolster this is exactly 36 inches. Mine looks just like factory less one axle.

I really like the way yours looks, and the formula you described is easily repeatable by anyone else. That said, your truck looks more like a truck while some other bobbers that I have seen have more of that Tonka Toy look. (Not criticizing either yours or theirs.) I guess it depends on what look you are after.

 

[73m819]

Very simple answer to this question DO NOT CUT which means DO NOT BOB,

Think I will start calling a BOB job a '"SPAYED DEUCE", "SPAYED 5t", or to cover both "SPAYED MV" Being that a BOBBED truck is now a CUT short of a real truck, SPAYED should be the proper name.