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Just be aware that using a plastic box is potentially an issue because it is flammable and it is dealing with high voltage and high amperage. Just one wrong wire can cause that all to catch fire.Been replicating kboy's/ TOBASH's diagrams. Thanks a million for posting all this info up!
Background: My smart start box was sitting on the floorboard and the harness was chopped instead of being disconnected when I picked it up from YermoI brought all all the chopped wires ends into a small Harbor Freight water tight box. All the splices are under the sheet of aluminum and the relays are mounted via nutserts. I mounted the box on top of the footwell for ease of wiring and future serviceability:
View attachment 943950
(Ignore the 60 amp circuit breakers, leftovers from another project, just used for mockup)
Its always bothered me that there are no fuses/breakers. I am adding 3 to the system to ease my mind with the higher amp items. Currently I am connecting the following from the engine side of the harness running to breakers:
(The relays are 24v, 200A)
- Terminal D (wire 575A, 24v to glow plugs)
- Terminal F (wire 5B, 24v Run HD engine electrical)
- Terminal E (wire 81A , 24v source always hot)
If one were to add circuit breakers, what amperage would be appropriate?
I recognize that car companies are using plastic boxes however they have extensive teams to make sure that they have not created cross circuits.
Each one of the hobby builders is creating a one-off item, so mistakes can be made.