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How to turbo a 6.2 using 6.5 parts

Kaiser67M715

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NH
masking tape, or maybe it was electrical...anyways, tape over the bolt head and attach the ends on the manifold remove the tape as you start each bolt. Now, there are a few bolts that will go in when the manifold is mounted, can't remember which ones, but it will make it easier to wait on those, and start the others first.
 

patracy

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masking tape, or maybe it was electrical...anyways, tape over the bolt head and attach the ends on the manifold remove the tape as you start each bolt. Now, there are a few bolts that will go in when the manifold is mounted, can't remember which ones, but it will make it easier to wait on those, and start the others first.
This is what I did as well.
 

brazengoat06

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Tulsa, OK
Finally got it after taking a break lol. It's easy to get frustrated. When turning up the IP is it a difficult screw to turn? It just felt like I was over tightening a screw. Didn't so much feel like an adjustment. Thanks
 

brazengoat06

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362
2
16
Location
Tulsa, OK
Finally got it after taking a break lol. It's easy to get frustrated. When turning up the IP is it a difficult screw to turn? It just felt like I was over tightening a screw. Didn't so much feel like an adjustment. Thanks
 

brazengoat06

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362
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Location
Tulsa, OK
on to the last question I hope. anybody have a step by step to building the turbo timer for the gmx turbos? I think i understand how the work now but not sure on how to construct it. thanks
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
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Denver, CO
Do you currently have a stock one? There were two types. A spring one and a vacuum one. Both can be turned into an adjustable one.

On my spring one I just removed the end cover and threaded the stock rod. Then I used a lock nut and washer to apply more pressure to the stock spring.

The he vacuum one can be done similarly but you'll have to get a spring for it. You can order waste gate springs or try and shop the hardware store for a spring. A 10# spring is fairly light. I'd shoot for something even lighter and then add preload to it to get closer to your desired boost level.
 

brazengoat06

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Location
Tulsa, OK
My turbo does not currently have an actuator. I will have to either make something from scratch or buy a new one and rig it. What's ur suggestion.
 

brazengoat06

Member
362
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16
Location
Tulsa, OK
got her running, still need a turbo timer and it seems like my boost guage isnt functioning. Where do you all have your gauges plumbed into? Mine is dead center on the upper intake. Thanks
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
If you have no waste gate controller you'll have no boost- plus engines make very little to no boost with no load-essentially the exhaust pressure helps create turbine spin, and that helps create inlet pressure- with no load, exhaust pressure remains low.

If you have the time and money(not much) you could go boost referenced actuator, basically you plumb a line from the intake after turbo, to an actuator, which then opens the waste gate when a certain boost is reached. Typically a 7 psi one is good for a 6.2, 10 psi for a turbo 6.5 engine


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brazengoat06

Member
362
2
16
Location
Tulsa, OK
Where can I find one? Haven't seen anything like that.

I've got something rigged up to allow boost but need something that is preset for safe boost. I don't trust the Guage and don't wanna push my luck. Thanks
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
you will need a wastegate actuator, universal, that is adjustable(try to find one that has a low initial boost opening) and a boost controller-there are several designs, but the simplest is simply a valve that bleeds of boost to create a boost signal for the actuator.

I like turbosmart products, quite expnsive, but the quality is there and they are easier to work with, typically you can get the actuator with a couple different springs to initially set boost(this costs round $130US) and the controller, which typically costs around $70. to fine tune the boost,

if you don't trust your boost gauge-getting a second gauge from a seperate manufacture(even another cheapo gauge works. and run a tee-so the signal goes to both gauges-if they read the same-or within a psi of each other, the gauge should be fine-very very rare for two gauges to be faulty; Don't forget, you'll really only see boost when driving, as you need the load to create boost.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
What's to stop someone from putting a single spring from the wastegate lever to a fixed point? As apposed to the entire actuator
If you add a turnbuckle, that would work. The turnbuckle would give you the adjustability to fine tune the boost. You would want barely any pressure initially, then as you tighten the turnbuckle, it will increase spring pressure which will create the boost.

Oh, you'll want to add jam nuts to the turnbuckle so it doesn't loosen up either.


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