Huck bolt removal tool

[Ronmar]

what year truck? Wonder if they changed Huck bolt type? thru the years? I'll go out and look at my old ones. They sure as hell would not fall off when cut that way for me.... but granted ones I cut where on a truck that saw a lot of salt so that may be why

98… You have to cut right thru where hex and collar meet(shave the top of the hex head) to bypass all the thread in the collar… I was expecting to have to unleash an air impact on the nut after I cut the collar, so them falling apart was a pleasant surprise… Will probably cut a few more today

 

[olly hondro]

98… You have to cut right thru where hex and collar meet(shave the top of the hex head) to bypass all the thread in the collar… I was expecting to have to unleash an air impact on the nut after I cut the collar, so them falling apart was a pleasant surprise… Will probably cut a few more today

Yeah, I have a bunch to cut as well. Am removing the underrider. The rules allow it

"Underride protection and protective devices
The underride protection may be removed on back and side. The fitting of protective devices against mechanical damage to the vehicle is optional."

 

[coachgeo]

Yeah, I have a bunch to cut as well. Am removing the underrider. The rules allow it

"Underride protection and protective devices
The underride protection may be removed on back and side. The fitting of protective devices against mechanical damage to the vehicle is optional."

Underride? is that rally world slang for skid plate?

 

[Awesomeness]

As for removing the huck bolts, the nut is only crimped to the bolt in the narrower portion of the nut. If you use a cut-off wheel to cut into the side of the nut just outward of the hex-flange, until you cut all the way through the bolt, the nut will come off leaving a short stub of the bolt protruding.

 

[olly hondro]

Underride? is that rally world slang for skid plate?

No, it is the structure mounted to the rear of the truck that , in the event of a rearend collision, the striking vehicle does not go under the rear wheels.

 

[coachgeo]

No, it is the structure mounted to the rear of the truck that , in the event of a rearend collision, the striking vehicle does not go under the rear wheels.View attachment 870212

lol..... ok... makes since...... though it so damn high not sure it qualifies lol.

 

[Guruman]

No, it is the structure mounted to the rear of the truck that , in the event of a rearend collision, the striking vehicle does not go under the rear wheels.

Is it getting in the way on the trail, or just trying to shed the weight or ???

 

[olly hondro]

Is it getting in the way on the trail, or just trying to shed the weight or ???

Trail, yes, it limits the size of obstacles that I can reverse over in tight maneuvers where I have to do, like, 17-point turns

 

[ramdough]

As for removing the huck bolts, the nut is only crimped to the bolt in the narrower portion of the nut. If you use a cut-off wheel to cut into the side of the nut just outward of the hex-flange, until you cut all the way through the bolt, the nut will come off leaving a short stub of the bolt protruding.
View attachment 870168

I have been cutting through the nut right where the smooth and hex meet using a cut off wheel….. not all the way through….. then smacking it with a mini sledge…. Pops right off. The bolt tip stays in the nut. You could just cut further until the bolt pops, but I had some that even the smallest cut wheel could not fit, so the hammer finished them off.


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[Ronmar]

Yea the ones in the forward lift structure are kinda tight and surrounded by structure. I may have to work the disc up from the bottom and cur two at a time as there isn’t room to get to just one at a time… and of course some knucklehead did one set with the hucks on the inside of the frame. I think I will plasma out the center of the bolt head and use a hammer on those…

 

[ramdough]

Yea the ones in the forward lift structure are kinda tight and surrounded by structure. I may have to work the disc up from the bottom and cur two at a time as there isn’t room to get to just one at a time… and of course some knucklehead did one set with the hucks on the inside of the frame. I think I will plasma out the center of the bolt head and use a hammer on those…

I also kind of remember slicing vertically through the tip of the bolt until I got to the frame. That obviously took a long time, but it eventually popped loose.

I was doing this away from shore power…. So had to use my cordless grinder.


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[Ronmar]

Yea I may wind up doing the vertical slice thing, just because they are back in a channel. Which means I will have to swap discs more often to be able to reach the back of the channel thru the huck. I will try some this weekend, but have a lot of dirt to move.

Love my cordless tools, but this is one job I would mot try with them

wish I could get the porta-band in there…. That would zip right thru these…

 

[chucky]

Yea I may wind up doing the vertical slice thing, just because they are back in a channel. Which means I will have to swap discs more often to be able to reach the back of the channel thru the huck. I will try some this weekend, but have a lot of dirt to move.

Love my cordless tools, but this is one job I would mot try with them

wish I could get the porta-band in there…. That would zip right thru these…

im not sure how fast the blades would hold up but these air hack saws like the sise of a 3/8 air ratchet (small ) could easily fit if the blades would hold up .

 

[chucky]

harborfreight.com/high-speed-metal-saw-91753.html

 

[Mullaney]

im not sure how fast the blades would hold up but these air hack saws like the sise of a 3/8 air ratchet (small ) could easily fit if the blades would hold up .

.
Air hacksaw works fine - so long as you don't buy Harbor Freight saw blades. Long ago, back before they had stores and everything shipped in from Commiefornia I bought some green blades. Can't remember how many but it was a BUNCH of them for almost nothing. Plugged one into my air hacksaw and stuck it on a plain bolt. Squeezed the trigger and after about 20 seconds passed I had a little groove in the bolt - and the blade was smooth. ALL the teeth contacting the bolt were gone!

Now days I buy Lenox blades.
They work like you would expect and they aren't made in china.

 

[wheelspinner]

Yea the ones in the forward lift structure are kinda tight and surrounded by structure. I may have to work the disc up from the bottom and cur two at a time as there isn’t room to get to just one at a time… and of course some knucklehead did one set with the hucks on the inside of the frame. I think I will plasma out the center of the bolt head and use a hammer on those…

Yep. Those ones got the hot wrench.

 

[coachgeo]

.... and of course some knucklehead did one set with the hucks on the inside of the frame. ....

My 1079 is the same. Was yours Passenger side... with hucks inside?

 

[Ronmar]

My 1079 is the same. Was yours Passenger side... with hucks inside?

Yea right behind the fuel tank. That is close to where a winch would be mounted, so it may have something to do with that also…

 

[Guruman]

Yea right behind the fuel tank. That is close to where a winch would be mounted, so it may have something to do with that also…

Ah.
I'm in the middle of mounting my winch, which is why I started this huck bolt removal thread. The two bolts behind the fuel tank are indeed right where the winch drum bolt onto the frame. They do indeed have come out to mount my winch, mine are backwards too, but I thought they were regular bolts because they were not like the rest.

I'm beginning to hate these things.

 

[olly hondro]

Those pesky Huck bolts.

These bolts cannot be removed with a wrench or socket no matter how big an impact tool you use. They are "swaged" on, sort of. An inexpensive cutoff tool doe...

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