- 494
- 1,073
- 93
Myth busted.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Huck bolt removal tool
- Thread starter Guruman
- Start date
- 7,782
- 19,915
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
- 494
- 1,073
- 93
I got up early and got my cardio in for sure.
Wingnut13
Well-known member
- 235
- 563
- 93
- Location
- Strafford, NH
Nice anvil….. so the question is can you reuse it? Or is it just cut it off and toss it?
- 494
- 1,073
- 93
Thanks. I'm still looking for the right forge and tools to go with it. It's a 640 pound RatHole Forge, made in Jackson, WY.
I would not reuse it. First it was HARD to get off. All. The. Way.
Putting it back on would be the same, I suspect.
Also, this one bolt at least, the threads are not great after getting the huck nut off.
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,896
- 7,564
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
We shouldn't even call them bolts. Huck rivets would be more appropriate IMO…
- 494
- 1,073
- 93
I was able to unscrew one this morning. It was a lot of effort, but not a lot of drama.We shouldn't even call them bolts. Huck rivets would be more appropriate IMO…
I'm wondering if one of those torque multipliers would just back them off. May have to give this a try.
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,896
- 7,564
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
I was going to try that up in the lift structure frame, but I didn't have the adapter/socket combination I needed to employ my multiplier.
I did find, since it was dam difficult to cut them all off perpendicular in that lift channel, that any cut down thru the outer collar loosened its grip on the threads enough that my 1/2 air impact could spin them right off. It is a longer cut that way, and the perpendicular cut thru the collar right at the top of the nut was still faster and a one step process.
I did find, since it was dam difficult to cut them all off perpendicular in that lift channel, that any cut down thru the outer collar loosened its grip on the threads enough that my 1/2 air impact could spin them right off. It is a longer cut that way, and the perpendicular cut thru the collar right at the top of the nut was still faster and a one step process.
- 494
- 1,073
- 93
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H99Y556
I noticed this one came with the 30mm socket. I probably want one to keep in the truck for the lug nuts anyway.
I noticed this one came with the 30mm socket. I probably want one to keep in the truck for the lug nuts anyway.
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,896
- 7,564
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
I got on for the lugs as well. Works great, but it is a 1” drive and I didnt have a 1”drive socket that fit the hucks or a 1”-1/2” adapter…
- 518
- 179
- 43
- Location
- Stoneville, NC
Some of them can be unbolted and some can't. Some are swaged on so tightly that they are basically cold welded. I personally wouldn't bother trying to unbolt them. Once you get the hang of cutting with a grinder and cut off wheel, it goes fast enough. I think I have cut probably 100 of them with the conversion project and removing the frame from the donor truck. I was not very good with a plasma cutter and ended up making a mess of the bolt that left it welded to the nut. To cut the ones located in the front crossmember, I cut down between the two and cut both at one time, plus some vertical cuts, and lots of hammering and such. If you try it this way you have to use a worn down cut off wheel for it to fit. The rest were not that bad. The inverted bolts I cut from inside the frame rail on the back side. All of the ones I have cut were done with the same cheap HF grinder and 4.5" cut off wheels. Make sure to wear eye protection as those wheels will sometimes frag and become projectiles.