I bought a "Not operationally checked" MEP-803A what can I expect?

[Ray70]

How did you test your batteries, did you check just voltage or did you do a load test? Sounds to me like you have 1 or more batteries that are taking a surface charge and appear to be at or above 12V but have little to no amperage behind it. You should either load test, or have a local parts store load test you batteries. If you want a cheap 100A tester, Harbor Freight has one for $20 https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html?_br_psugg_q=battery+tester
Another quick method is to test voltage at any 24V point and watch the voltage while attempting to crank. If the voltage falls off drastically when you try to crank, you batteries are no good.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
I know you have been over the MEP-803A sticky... but there is more.

MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts

The second post has a bunch of useful links.
fuel tank well nut, fuel return lines, stainless steel bolts, relays, switches,

Oh, you found the spring clips for the relays. You will probably find lots of stuff. Under the engine, washers, screws, etc, that is a good reason to totally check all things out. The spring clips could have made some fireworks in the panel.

 

[Guyfang]

How did you test your batteries, did you check just voltage or did you do a load test? Sounds to me like you have 1 or more batteries that are taking a surface charge and appear to be at or above 12V but have little to no amperage behind it. You should either load test, or have a local parts store load test you batteries. If you want a cheap 100A tester, Harbor Freight has one for $20 https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-612v-battery-load-tester-61747.html?_br_psugg_q=battery+tester
Another quick method is to test voltage at any 24V point and watch the voltage while attempting to crank. If the voltage falls off drastically when you try to crank, you batteries are no good.

Another quick method is to test voltage at any 24V point and watch the voltage while attempting to crank. If the voltage falls off drastically when you try to crank, you batteries are no good.

Often, with GEL battery's, they will take a surface charge, and appear tip top. This is a dead giveaway.

 

[Coug]

Battery should be at least 12.6V to be considered charged. Anything below that needs charged before testing. If the batteries are in good shape the unit can still be started down to about 12.3V each, but they are considered nearly dead at that point, so not a good idea to do it if you don't have to.

to add to that, for most starting conditions, a 12V battery shouldn't drop to any lower than about 10V minimum (10 or higher preferred) so in 24v that would be about 20V minimum while cranking. Obviously higher is better, but any lower and all you're doing is shortening the starter's life.

If the batteries are good and it's still a slow crank, then you worry about cable connections, and possibly corrosion inside the cables. Hold the meter on either end of a battery cable when cranking, there should be less than 1/2 volt difference in any cable, and 1 volt difference between the battery and the starter (that's on the starter side of the solenoid, not the input side). (not all systems are as simple as these are for electrical)

After that I'd look at the starter itself needing something.

(you can't use the continuity setting on the meter for larger cables because if even one strand is good in the cable, the meter will show good continuity. The only real way to test is see how much the voltage drops along the length of the cable during high amperage loading.)

 

[rtrask]

I am still scratching my head and going through the manuals for a clue. I will try again this weekend. I think it is possibly the solenoid (see picture below) the contact has a kind of strange wear pattern on it. To counter that, possibility though, operating the solenoid by hand does not seem to provide flaky results, and the clicking sound I hear does not seem to come from the solenoid.

My next steps will be to dress the contact and put the starter together and give it a try. If that fails I will try and jump it from the FLU 419. It's batteries are more than adequate. I wish I had a NATO slave cable but my heavy duty jumper cables will work, I just need to be careful. I think the first thing I will do is use my air impact ratchet to turn the engine over through multiple revolutions looking for some sort of catch.

I have ordered an other starter, hopefully it will just act as a spare.

 

[rtrask]

Another quick method is to test voltage at any 24V point and watch the voltage while attempting to crank. If the voltage falls off drastically when you try to crank, you batteries are no good.

Often, with GEL battery's, they will take a surface charge, and appear tip top. This is a dead giveaway.

Thank's Guy, I don't have a load tester. I should probably get one. If jumping it with the FLU419 solves the problem, then likely you are correct and one or both of the batteries are NFG.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Most auto parts stores will test your battery for free. Worth a drive if you have one local.

 

[rtrask]

How did you test your batteries, did you check just voltage or did you do a load test? Sounds to me like you have 1 or more batteries that are taking a surface charge and appear to be at or above 12V but have little to no amperage behind it.

Often, with GEL battery's, they will take a surface charge, and appear tip top. This is a dead giveaway.

You folks were correct, the problem is that one of the batteries was bad. I have 2 good batteries in there now, and the engine starts right up.

I think there is a problem with the dead crank switch. After I reinstalled the starter and replaced the batteries I tried the dead crank and it turned over just fine, but did not stop when I switched it off. I switched it to normal and it kept cranking. Finally I switched the master switch back to off and it quit. Then I switched it back to prime, and after a bit tried to start it from the master switch. It turned over a couple of times before it caught, but then ran fine. I let it run for about 30 seconds while I walked around it looking for issues and shut it off. I inspected it some more and decided to start it again. I tried to crank it again after letting it sit in prime, and nothing. I switched it back to off, tested the batteries and everything seemed OK, put it back on prime, I tried the remote start switch and it started just fine. Then I shut it down, and tried the master switch again and it started right up. After that every time I tried it from the master it started right up. So there may be some gremlin yet to track down with the master switch but I have bigger fish to fry.

The engine seems to run clean, no unusual smoke and it sounds good to me. The oil level has not changed after letting it run for 30 minutes or so. The alternator is charging, The temperature is fine. I adjusted the frequency up to 60 Hz, and the convenience receptacles ran an electric drill. The oil pressure gauge does not register any pressure, but I think it is either an issue with the gauge, sensor, or wiring. I won't let it run much before I track it down for sure what. I am have ordered 10' of Viton tubing (ouch) and will replace the diesel return line. The biggest problem I see is that there is an oil leak between the gear end box, (See attached video). All in all I am very happy so far.

short video showing oil leak

I tried to just insert the video, but ultimately gave up. the window was tiny, and the play control covered over the leak.

 

[Guyfang]

I think there is a problem with the dead crank switch. After I reinstalled the starter and replaced the batteries I tried the dead crank and it turned over just fine, but did not stop when I switched it off. I switched it to normal and it kept cranking.

This could be a sign that K2 is "sticky". Pull it out, take it carefully apart, and check if it moves up and down smoothly, that the contacts are not burnt. Clean it out, blow it out and reassemble it. Re install and try it again. S10 is a very solid switch. I have never seen a bad one. Doesn't mean its not bad, but I would be very surprised if it were.

You do not need to turn S1 to any position other then off, and the S10 will turn over the engine.

put it back on prime, I tried the remote start switch and it started just fine.

Are you saying the set started up with the S10?

So there may be some gremlin yet to track down with the master switch

What kind of S1 do you have? There are 3 different kinds. The Mark 1 and Mark 2 Can have problems, but are easy to check. The Mark 3 is a no problem switch. The first two are all plastic. The third is metal and plastic. If you can not decide, post a picture.

The oil pressure gauge does not register any pressure, but I think it is either an issue with the gauge, sensor, or wiring.

Follow the test procedure in the -24 TM. Its easy and you should correct this problem.

gear end box,

What is a gear end box?

 

[rtrask]

put it back on prime, I tried the remote start switch and it started just fine.

Are you saying the set started up with the S10?

No, sorry if I was unclear. The remote start switch is just a button connected to two alligator clips by two pieces of wire. This is similar to mine

I connected one of the alligator clips to S terminal on the solenoid and the other to the B terminal. When you press the button it activates the solenoid.

So there may be some gremlin yet to track down with the master switch

What kind of S1 do you have? There are 3 different kinds. The Mark 1 and Mark 2 Can have problems, but are easy to check. The Mark 3 is a no problem switch. The first two are all plastic. The third is metal and plastic. If you can not decide, post a picture.

I will check tomorrow, but I think it is all plastic.

gear end box,

What is a gear end box?

I meant Gear End Cover, it is figure 3-32 on page 3-57 of TM 209-2815-253-24, but I was wrong. That is not the leak. It is leaking diesel not oil. and it is coming from around where the metering fuel pump (part no 186-6151) mounts on the second cylinder from the front. Hopefully it is not the fuel pump itself, the way the engine runs I don't think so, I need to read up on it.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,

S1 switch styles

MEP-8xx S1 and S6 switch variations

Howdy, So many ask, but do not know. They do the same function. Pictures of the S1 and S6 switches. Plastic switches Bakelite switches

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[rtrask]

What kind of S1 do you have? There are 3 different kinds. The Mark 1 and Mark 2 Can have problems, but are easy to check. The Mark 3 is a no problem switch. The first two are all plastic. The third is metal and plastic. If you can not decide, post a picture.

S1 switch styles

MEP-8xx S1 and S6 switch variations

Howdy, So many ask, but do not know. They do the same function. Pictures of the S1 and S6 switches. Plastic switches Bakelite switches

www.steelsoldiers.com

It is definitely one of the plastic ones either Mark 1 or Mark 2. S1 and especially S6 feel spongy when you are turning them.

Edit: I dug a little deeper in the link Daybreak provided to his previous post, and found where Guy in a different post gave enough details to identify it. It looks like a Mark 1 from his description.

 

[69birdman]

Disconnect the batterys, spray some electronic contact cleaner into those s-1 , s-6, & s-8 if you have the top off, and exercise the switch as you do. Most say Deoxit is the best stuff, I've never tried it but had good luck so far with a CRC quick dry electronic cleaner.

 

[Guyfang]

In any case, try the spray to clean out the switch. This type, (Mark 1) is "open" to the elements. Lots of dust and crud can get in.

Just to keep me from having to go back again and look at ten million posts, what is the problem you are having, that makes you think the S1 might be the problem?

And don't spare the spray when using it. Its cheaper then the switch!

 

[rtrask]

Disconnect the batterys, spray some electronic contact cleaner into those s-1 , s-6, & s-8 if you have the top off, and exercise the switch as you do. Most say Deoxit is the best stuff, I've never tried it but had good luck so far with a CRC quick dry electronic cleaner.

I have CRC, will give that a try.

In any case, try the spray to clean out the switch. This type, (Mark 1) is "open" to the elements. Lots of dust and crud can get in.

Just to keep me from having to go back again and look at ten million posts, what is the problem you are having, that makes you think the S1 might be the problem?

And don't spare the spray when using it. Its cheaper then the switch!

After I started it the first time from S1, I shut it down after about a minute, and then tried it again probably 10 minutes later. When I tried it then, the prime came up fine and after waiting a bit tried to crank it, but nothing happened. After a couple of do nothing attempts I thought the batteries might be dead, but they showed good voltage, so I tried the remote switch I told you about earlier. With the S1 switch on prime using the remote switch (2 light cables with alligator clamps connected by a push button switch) connected to terminal S and Terminal B on the solenoid. ( a better approach than laying a screw driver from the battery post to the terminal that energizes the solenoid.) It started right up. I then went to S1 and shut it off. After that it started right up every time I tried (probably less than a dozen, but more than once or twice.) Probably unrelated, but the dead crank switch did not stop when I let it go back to the middle position, or when I subsequently flipped it down to normal, I then moved S1 to off and it stopped cranking, but then started after moving S1 to prime and run, and then after a bit to start.

 

[Guyfang]

Probably unrelated, but the dead crank switch did not stop when I let it go back to the middle position, or when I subsequently flipped it down to normal, I then moved S1 to off and it stopped cranking, but then started after moving S1 to prime and run, and then after a bit to start.

This really sounds like the K2 hung up. The S10 operates completely separate from the normal start system, until it gets to the K2. The remote switch is a good troubleshooting tool, but it can, if the S1 is in the run or prime position, cause the set to start. So if the set starts, the MPU has not been in the start process, and thats what would normaly kick the starter out, when the engine hit its end of start RPM. In any case, unless you can simulate the problem again, I would not worry too much about it. You see, under normal starting procedures, the MPU reads how fast the engine is turning, and then it tells the starter to kick out, so you can hold up the S1 longer, thus exciting the main gen.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
For all purposes.... take your remote start switch out of the equation. The MEP-80x S1 start switch accomplishes a few things. When starting, prime and run, then turn to start.... hold it here, what happens here (turns starter, flashes the field, bypasses initial low oil pressure shut down) after the oil pressure is up, release S1 switch.

You remote start button misses what needs to happen.

 

[rtrask]

Howdy,
For all purposes.... take your remote start switch out of the equation. The MEP-80x S1 start switch accomplishes a few things. When starting, prime and run, then turn to start.... hold it here, what happens here (turns starter, flashes the field, bypasses initial low oil pressure shut down) after the oil pressure is up, release S1 switch.

You remote start button misses what needs to happen.

I don't intend to use the remote start except in very rare diagnostic situations. I used it here because:

1. S1 did nothing when I switched it to start position after a period of about 30 second in the prime position
2. The batteries appeared to have a full charge
3. I was leery of the dead crank switch because it did not stop cranking when I released it.

Remember I had just gone through a period that due to a bad battery I thought there may have been a connection issue to the starter solenoid. At any rate we are beating a dead horse. The generator now seems to start on first crank and run well.

 

[rtrask]

The issue that is troubling me the most at this time is the growing fuel leaks that appear to come from the injector pumps on the first and second cylinders. I made this video which I hope gives enough info to correctly diagnose the issue.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Thats a good leak... only while running or when the set is priming? Have you taken the roof off the set for full access and view?