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I have joined the club ! And yes I have lost my mine !

mkcoen

mkcoen

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The only issue you might have with departure angle is a real short, steep, u-shaped dip. I wouldn't think that would be that common so I'd keep the extra space and just plan around any trails like that.
 
1951M1078

1951M1078

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I was very impressed with what it can do.

As for the cut, don't think I'm going to do that.
Not needed and its to much work for almost nothing other than maybe the look ?
 
1951M1078

1951M1078

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I understand about supporting the box.

Not trying to be a problem but 80% for the box is on a frame. And this is where the load is. I can see a light sub frame but ?

So if it was cut what would be carrying the weight / load ? In this case the walls become the carrier. With this being a sleeping area it would be low load. Even with my fat a$$.
In doing the math the part that would be cut away would only be 225 -315 lbs at the max.

With that in mind a light sub frame should be able to handle the load and give the bumper something to push on.
Also the bumper needs to be able to retract for off road use.
 
agazza2

agazza2

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Wow, you are making great progress. I need to get some time away from work so I can work on mine and also come out and see your truck in person again.
What is the height now for the top of the box?
 
quickfarms

quickfarms

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1951M1078 said:
I understand about supporting the box.

Not trying to be a problem but 80% for the box is on a frame. And this is where the load is. I can see a light sub frame but ?

So if it was cut what would be carrying the weight / load ? In this case the walls become the carrier. With this being a sleeping area it would be low load. Even with my fat a$$.
In doing the math the part that would be cut away would only be 225 -315 lbs at the max.

With that in mind a light sub frame should be able to handle the load and give the bumper something to push on.
Also the bumper needs to be able to retract for off road use.
Click to expand...
The floor boards run parallel to the truck frame. The floor crossmember run parallel to the axle. Each floor crossmember needs to supported solidly, this is usually accomplished by the box subframe, a wood strip and the truck frame.

If the floor crossmembers are not properly supported the floor will flex and eventually cause a structural failure of the box

If you cut the end of the box off at an angle you will need to build a frame to support the box

Looking at the pictures it appears that you left the military sub frame that is rigidly attached to the truck frame, and added angles to that.

It looks like you removed the subframe from the box.

How is the box attached to the angles?

Does your attachment allow for frame flex?

Most all of the expedition campers use a three point mounting system to allow the frame to flex without stressing the box.
 
Last edited:
1951M1078

1951M1078

Well-known member
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Glendale,AZ
The box attaches the same way the bed did.

The box is welded at each bulk head frame (16" on center) for about 3". Their about 48 welds +-.
Also their some backup bolts on a 36" spacing. Then all of this is bolted to the truck sub frame.

In our testing the overall flex is well with in the box ability. And the truck's chassis doesn't flex much in what I will be using it for.I chose this box for its overall stiffness.

As for the 3 point mounts ? Not sure where people are going to take their trucks but I hope the expense is worth it.

So I will see if we did the math right and it works.
 
Duckworthe

Duckworthe

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San Diego, Ca
As for the 3 point mounts ? Not sure where people are going to take their trucks but I hope the expense is worth it.

I agree. I have been using my truck and driving it through serious twisting terrain. I have not needed it nor thought after my build I should have built it in. I have a machine shop and all the required items and knowledge to build the three point mounts. IMHO this truck (1078) doesn't need it nor require it.
 
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