I think I got lucky buying a Mep803A form auction!

[stugpanzer]

Not going to say a word about the wiring. I would have done the same.

BUT, yes there is a but. I will say you havent studied the book enough yet. I am a nag, I know. But its your best friend.

Now a quick load test. Nothing big, just enough to see if the gages work. Then you need to do the fine work. It looks clean, sounds good. I think you got a runner!

Coming up with a load test plan. I do have a transfer switch which I use with a 7kw gas screamer with some circuits such as sump pump, furnace blower, lights, TV, etc and so I will be connecting to that. After that I was going to try to locate someone that has an electric range that I can connect to for decent load test. I have admired some peoples own innovative homemade setups but starting small here!

Meanwhile, yes I will be reading the operators manual and continuing on to some of the other TM's.

I really appreciate the guidance and gentle kick in the arse as needed and please continue to do so!

 

[Guyfang]

I sir, am a harmless old man!

 

[stugpanzer]

I sir, am a harmless old man!

And a very smart one too!

 

[Zed254]

Ground rod installed? I did not see any green or uninsulated copper wire coming out of the output terminal box.

 

[stugpanzer]

Ground rod installed? I did not see any green or uninsulated copper wire coming out of the output terminal box.

I had a ground attached to the trailer frame which is attached to the ground lug. When I test with my transfer switch I will be sure to move the ground/neutral bonding bar for that test.

 

[stugpanzer]

Heat it. You only need to heat a little of it cherry red in one little spot.

I think now that she's running I will revisit the notion of changing the exhaust. I would much rather the exhaust fumes go up instead of down as it is currently configured so I believe I will be trying as you suggested to get that off.

 

[rhurey]

Coming up with a load test plan. I do have a transfer switch which I use with a 7kw gas screamer with some circuits such as sump pump, furnace blower, lights, TV, etc and so I will be connecting to that. After that I was going to try to locate someone that has an electric range that I can connect to for decent load test. I have admired some peoples own innovative homemade setups but starting small here!

Meanwhile, yes I will be reading the operators manual and continuing on to some of the other TM's.

I really appreciate the guidance and gentle kick in the arse as needed and please continue to do so!

I think you have the order backwards. Start the load test with a load you can afford to have fried until the unit proves it works under load. I use the house now to exercise my generator. But it proved it would work for hours first with water heater elements.

 

[Guyfang]

I think now that she's running I will revisit the notion of changing the exhaust. I would much rather the exhaust fumes go up instead of down as it is currently configured so I believe I will be trying as you suggested to get that off.

As suggested, use heat, and tap it a bit with a hammer. Don't beat the stuffings out of it. Tap it. It should come off easy.

 

[frank8003]

The photo shows it is, or was, just regular galvanized pipe. 3/4" taper per foot on the pipe threads. Put some Kroil on it, tap all around the fittings for a few days. Before attempting to animal it apart, try to tighten the fittings a degree or so, and put more Kroil (ATF/acetone) in the threads. Corrosion has it bound up on only 2 threads. When I say "tap" I mean put steel behind the fitting and "nail" it.
If you do use concentrated heat the penetrants are flammable, I know you know that, but put the heat on mostly to the female threaded parts.
In all these years, seldom have used the heat tool to get stuff apart.

 

[stugpanzer]

I think you have the order backwards. Start the load test with a load you can afford to have fried until the unit proves it works under load. I use the house now to exercise my generator. But it proved it would work for hours first with water heater elements.

Good point! Thanks!

 

[stugpanzer]

Its been a while since a updated everybody on this thread but due to that pesky day job and family crisis I was put a bit behind. I was finally able to get that old exhaust pipe off and as you all pointed out, all it took was a (proper) torch and about 2 minutes of heating and it came right off! I got myself a galvanized coupler and a tractor exhaust flapper.
Now my next task is to load bank the unit. I made my own load bank and once I run through a full load bank and finish documenting everything I will share what I made and my results in a new thread.
She gives me a bit of white smoke when she first starts but after she warms up its pretty clear!
I had one issue where I had a coolant leak. Turns out the little rubber stopper near the lower hose into the engine was a bit dry rotted! I did a hillbilly fix which seems to be holding well!

 

[Guyfang]

Stugpanzer,

That's a normal thing, the rubber dry rotting. Get yourself some silicone grease, and rub it in of all the rubber stuff once a year. That will solve the problem.

Thanks for the update, too many folks bail out after getting some help, and we never know if what we did, worked.

 

[stugpanzer]

I'm excited about getting the load bank done and posted. I believe it will be helpful for others and my load bank all fits in a tote and can be stored easily. I don't have the space for an old electric range or two!