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Jones,
I have the same thing on the M105A2, with the part missing -that is mine looks like yours.
I have the same thing on the M105A2, with the part missing -that is mine looks like yours.
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If you have an M105A2 with an undamaged valve ...
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Jones
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I'll go by the brake shop tomorrow and get what they have in servicable vents. Any I end up with, you guys are welcome to.
Since nothing is supposed to get close to the vent it's likely that the plastic just deteriorated over time or that it was smacked by a wayward wrench or tire-propelled rock.
The stem is what the rubber disc slides over and it's retained by a small clip or in some cases, a brad that presses into the center piece. The rubber disc isn't a tight fit so that exhausting air can blow by it to vent. Then it just kinda returns to it's original form to close off the opening. Nesting insects aren't smart enough to fly down, land and pull on the edges to see if they can get past it.
Since nothing is supposed to get close to the vent it's likely that the plastic just deteriorated over time or that it was smacked by a wayward wrench or tire-propelled rock.
The stem is what the rubber disc slides over and it's retained by a small clip or in some cases, a brad that presses into the center piece. The rubber disc isn't a tight fit so that exhausting air can blow by it to vent. Then it just kinda returns to it's original form to close off the opening. Nesting insects aren't smart enough to fly down, land and pull on the edges to see if they can get past it.
KaiserM109
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I have narrowed the relay valve down to 1 of 4 models, depending upon the size of the ports. It will take a trip to my storage yard to measure the ports to resolve it further.
This still doesn't provide me with info on replacing the wasp excluder port, though.
The source for this clip: http://bepco.biz/AirBrakeCat/126.pdf
This still doesn't provide me with info on replacing the wasp excluder port, though.
The source for this clip: http://bepco.biz/AirBrakeCat/126.pdf
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Jones
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Kaiser, The Bendix wasp excluders are just held in with a spring clip. The whole plastic assy. slides in and the retainer keeps it in place. Not sure how the Midlands are. I'll have to do a little more studying.
OPCOM, I can get the Bendix parts once we know which valve you have.
OPCOM, I can get the Bendix parts once we know which valve you have.
KaiserM109
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Several of us on this list have damaged Emergency Relay Valves manufactured by Midland. See the pictures below to identify it. See
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=15324&postdays=0&postorder=asc
If you have an undamaged unit, please photograph the bottom and post it here. If possible, please dissassemble the wasp excluder on the bottom and show us what the parts look like.
Thanks in advance.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=15324&postdays=0&postorder=asc
If you have an undamaged unit, please photograph the bottom and post it here. If possible, please dissassemble the wasp excluder on the bottom and show us what the parts look like.
Thanks in advance.
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KaiserM109
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There is an internal 'C' clip tht holds some internal parts in. In this picture you can see it if you know what you are looking for. It is a little rusty, it opens to about the 4 o'clock position. I haven't taken it off to see what comes out.
A question for someone who knows brakes: Will it work okay if you completely bypass this valve by taking the service line and running it directly to the booster? Obviously you would not have the safety factor of a lockup if the air lines are lost.
A question for someone who knows brakes: Will it work okay if you completely bypass this valve by taking the service line and running it directly to the booster? Obviously you would not have the safety factor of a lockup if the air lines are lost.
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DaveP
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KaiserM109 said:
Jones
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Another thing the emergency relay valve does is to enable a graduated application, based on what the service line is telling it, should air pressure be lost; so you can stay in control of the vehicle instead of having the brakes apply all at once, stranding you out in a traffic lane.
And, in the event of loss (breakaway) of the trailer, it applies the trailer brakes without need of a command from the rest of the brake system.
And, in the event of loss (breakaway) of the trailer, it applies the trailer brakes without need of a command from the rest of the brake system.
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Dave, the older trailers don't have a relay valve at all. The have a single airline that comes from the service side of the truck and goes right to the brake chamber that applies the master cylinder.
DaveP
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Kenny is there a quick release on the old trailers? or does the application pressure have to bleed out all the way up at the truck?
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Bleeds out at the airpack IIRC, nothing releasewise on the trailer at all Dave
DaveP
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YIKES! sounds like a good opportunity for a jack knife situation!Recovry4x4 said:
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That and breakaway are probably a couple of the many reasons they switched to the current system.
KaiserM109
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That is all well and nice, but if it is so fragile that nobody has a working unit, what good is it? I would rather bypass it and know I don’t have it than have it get obstructed by a wasp’s nest and fail on the road.
The 2 I have were broken being moved around in motor pools. There are marks on the frame near the one I photo’d from fork lifts. They look like they are vulnerable to damage from road debris or high centering in rough territory.
The members of this list are quite anxious to help others out of genuine concern. I started another thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=15404 asking for someone with a complete unit to photograph it and possibly even disassemble the wasp excluder. As of this morning it has been view 75 times and there are 0 replies. That tells me that nobody has a good unit.
If I have to replace the whole thing, it will be $65 plus either a $36 core charge or shipping charges for the core.
What are you guys with M105A2s doing?
The 2 I have were broken being moved around in motor pools. There are marks on the frame near the one I photo’d from fork lifts. They look like they are vulnerable to damage from road debris or high centering in rough territory.
The members of this list are quite anxious to help others out of genuine concern. I started another thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=15404 asking for someone with a complete unit to photograph it and possibly even disassemble the wasp excluder. As of this morning it has been view 75 times and there are 0 replies. That tells me that nobody has a good unit.
If I have to replace the whole thing, it will be $65 plus either a $36 core charge or shipping charges for the core.
What are you guys with M105A2s doing?
jasonjc
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Out of the 5 M105A2 trailer that I have 2 are older and do not have a relay valve. 1 the tank and valve were removed before I got it. And the other two are in the same shape as yours. One the valve is bent over to one side some what and the wasp thing is gone. the over has a rubber disk that seems to be missing some thing or is just worn out or bad. It is not sealing anything.
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Sorry, work has kept me from getting under my trailer. I'll be off tomorrow if you can hold off.
jasonjc
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So far I have not towed mine any where. The 2 newest to me are of the older type and only have 1 air line , and they are in the best shape. As for fixing the other ones: 1 is scrap; 1 is a rust bucket, but may be saved; 1 is good and will needed to be fixed. I'm whatching this thread to see how you and other fix them, I'm in no rush. Trailers are low on my list of things to fix right now.
Jones
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Kaiser, The Bendix replacement is an RE-6 Relay Emergency Valve. I can email you their Quick Reference Catalog and Air Brake Handbook as .pdf files; or post it to the library if there's enough general interest. Let me know.
KaiserM109
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I'm sure there are folks who would like to know where to get an equivelent. http://bepco.biz is a source on an exact replacement.
I would like to find a way to solve the broken wasp excluder problem for about $5 instead of $65 to $98. I swore off Chrysler when I had to buy a $350 cooling fan assembly because a poorly designed $3 piece went bad. We should be able to get our hands on just the parts we need, not the whole assembly. sales@midlandindustrial.com is the place to ask. I believe that the part number is KN30200X. Maybe if enough of us ask for the parts, they will sell them to us at a reasonable price.
I'll confirm the part number some time this week when I get back over to the storage yard. These OD machines are an expensive hobby if you don't own a piece of land! I grew up a country boy in Western Colorado and do I miss it!
I would like to find a way to solve the broken wasp excluder problem for about $5 instead of $65 to $98. I swore off Chrysler when I had to buy a $350 cooling fan assembly because a poorly designed $3 piece went bad. We should be able to get our hands on just the parts we need, not the whole assembly. sales@midlandindustrial.com is the place to ask. I believe that the part number is KN30200X. Maybe if enough of us ask for the parts, they will sell them to us at a reasonable price.
I'll confirm the part number some time this week when I get back over to the storage yard. These OD machines are an expensive hobby if you don't own a piece of land! I grew up a country boy in Western Colorado and do I miss it!
Jones
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OK, here's what I've been able to find out so far.
New Midland valve $135.00, my cos.t
Rebuilt Midland valve $66.00, my cost.
Rebuild kit $42.00, my cost.
The wasp excluder is not available by itself, but IS included in the rebuild kit.
If it was me, I'd probably go with the kit and rebuild the valve as long as I had it out and on the bench.
AND, for all of you who asked; here are pictures of the valve, what the wasp excluder looks like and what's stacked under it. FWIW: Disassembly is pretty simple once the retqining clip is removed (spring-loaded components within), but reassembly is pretty much a three-handed job.
New Midland valve $135.00, my cos.t
Rebuilt Midland valve $66.00, my cost.
Rebuild kit $42.00, my cost.
The wasp excluder is not available by itself, but IS included in the rebuild kit.
If it was me, I'd probably go with the kit and rebuild the valve as long as I had it out and on the bench.
AND, for all of you who asked; here are pictures of the valve, what the wasp excluder looks like and what's stacked under it. FWIW: Disassembly is pretty simple once the retqining clip is removed (spring-loaded components within), but reassembly is pretty much a three-handed job.
