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The radiant heat loss is improved by the foil of sound deadening at the top of the engine bay.
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I put my hand against the block after leaving the heater running all night, and it still felt ice cold. It started ok, so something inside was warm, but it's losing a ton of heat to the environment. It didn't seem to warm up any faster (and by that I mean that the gauge bottoms out at like 160°F, and it "never" reaches that while just idling).
Well, technically the heat gets transmitted all throughout the "entire engine" per HotStart.Huh? A freeze plug heater doesn't heat the oil at all. The oil is sitting in the pan, and not touching the engine block, so it's basically at outdoor temp.
I can't tell if you are joking. Regardless of what their marketing says, no, you are only heating the coolant and block. The oil almost completely drains into the pan after the engine is shut down, and there are no significant paths for heat to take into the oil (e.g. just the thin walls of the oil pan and pickup tube). So the oil is sitting there at 10°F or whatever. The coolant in the couple cylinders closest to the block heater is probably like 40-50°F, and the cylinders further away are significantly colder (25°F on a 10°F morning?). There won't be much natural circulation of coolant in the engine, due to the heating either. When the engine starts, all that cold oil gets dumped back into the engine and starts cooling things off, but by then the engine has already started and warmed the cylinder walls enough to keep itself running.Well, technically the heat gets transmitted all throughout the "entire engine" per HotStart.
My "oil pan Snuggie" keeps it nice and warm lol Order now and get "dipstick Snuggie" !I can't tell if you are joking. Regardless of what their marketing says, no, you are only heating the coolant and block. The oil almost completely drains into the pan after the engine is shut down, and there are no significant paths for heat to take into the oil (e.g. just the thin walls of the oil pan and pickup tube). So the oil is sitting there at 10°F or whatever. The coolant in the couple cylinders closest to the block heater is probably like 40-50°F, and the cylinders further away are significantly colder (25°F on a 10°F morning?). There won't be much natural circulation of coolant in the engine, due to the heating either. When the engine starts, all that cold oil gets dumped back into the engine and starts cooling things off, but by then the engine has already started and warmed the cylinder walls enough to keep itself running.
In the end, it doesn't really matter, because it works. As long as a couple cylinders are warm enough to start and run more easily, they will bootstrap the rest, and once the engine gets a couple hundred revolutions under its belt the engine compression will have naturally warmed the remaining cold cylinders. This is the time it takes to stop "smoking", which in my experience is less than 30 seconds of running time usually.
Yea, I should have said coolant. The block will not really feel that warm. you might be able to see some change on the block with an IR as compared to say the temperature of the axle.I put my hand against the block after leaving the heater running all night, and it still felt ice cold. It started ok, so something inside was warm, but it's losing a ton of heat to the environment. It didn't seem to warm up any faster (and by that I mean that the gauge bottoms out at like 160°F, and it "never" reaches that while just idling).
Synthetic will help crank load And speed. You have glow-plugs though right?My John Deere Diesel Tractor is never plugged in and starts great. I run synthetic oil in it. With out, the battery would not spin the engine very well and oil pressure light would stay on! Changed oil type solved having to heat the engine.
In most places, it will cost $1-2 to run the heater all night. I found that you only need to plug it in for 30 minutes or so to get a pretty easy start, and plugging it in longer doesn't get you any other operating benefits (e.g. warm air from the heater). But maybe if someone wants to just wake up and go, it's worth the $2 to not wake up early.That is a lot of loss leaving it run all night...
The Freeze Plug Heater for the 3116 should be Zerostart "3500015" & 44mm not 50mm. Just knocked mine out easy job went to put the "3500018" in and it is way big! You might want to check this on the Spreadsheet list. Had to order another one online and forgot who I bought the first one from???The freeze plug heater is listed in my parts spreadsheet here in my signature.
Not for this heater. P over IE 1500w(P), divided by 120v(E) = 12.5A(I) of current draw. You need something rated for 15A and an appropriately sized power cable...Also, I would look into WiFi or PLC (Power Line Carrier), sometimes called UPB (Universal Powerline Bus) smart appliance devices.
You can use Alexa, Google voice, or just your phone to turn on a plug that's attached to your block heater. Just make sure it's an appliance (or relay) device and not a dimmer.
That way, when you wake up, while taking the morning dump, you can turn on the block heater remotely and have your beast ready by the time you're shaven, eaten and on your way out.
No more 'wasted' electricity running the heating block all night.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Gosund-Compatible-Required-appliances-Certified/dp/B079MFTYMV
Looks like they're rated at 10Amps, come in 4-pack, and cost less than 8 bucks a piece.
The ZeroStart block heater part number is listed in the spreadsheet here in my signature, also.Here is a listing from NAPA for the 3500018 Black heater. 50 mm hole. My block is 44mm much smaller.heater 3500018
Here is a listing for the 3500015 Block Heater 44mm in size.3500015 Listing
A lot of these "Home Automation" vendors call them "Appliance Modules". They are good for a coffeemaker, a crockpot or other higher amp draw kitchen appliances. X-10 sells a 15 amp and a 20 amp module. They have the SNAP sound of a 1950's light switch when they power on and off...Also, I would look into WiFi or PLC (Power Line Carrier), sometimes called UPB (Universal Powerline Bus) smart appliance devices.
You can use Alexa, Google voice, or just your phone to turn on a plug that's attached to your block heater. Just make sure it's an appliance (or relay) device and not a dimmer.
That way, when you wake up, while taking the morning dump, you can turn on the block heater remotely and have your beast ready by the time you're shaven, eaten and on your way out.
No more 'wasted' electricity running the heating block all night.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Gosund-Compatible-Required-appliances-Certified/dp/B079MFTYMV
Looks like they're rated at 10Amps, come in 4-pack, and cost less than 8 bucks a piece.