Injection pump won't move when turning crank.

[Mattguy]

Not with 71 miles on it, no water can flow from the water pump with that wax in place, the pump sucks from the bottom of the radiator and then into the engine through those two orifices, no water will flow with that wax there, how hard is it??
EDIT, I would suspect water will come out when you punch that wax so try to keep it out of the crankcase!

It's a soft wax like a toliet bowl gasket. I'm going to clean it out before I put everything together.

 

[Maxjeep1]

It's a soft wax like a toliet bowl gasket. I'm going to clean it out before I put everything together.

Maybe you should try to flush the block also? I can’t see that being the only place that it would gather. I have no clue why it would even be there. If it melts it might be a good idea to flush it with your hot water heater, most have a hose bib on them. I would probably pull the thermostat out and see if it gathered there also.

 

[Mogman]

So the lower pump drive gear sheared the key? can that be fixed without pulling the harmonic balancer and the cam drive cover, I cannot see how.

 

[blutow]

Found a weird wax in water pump housing. Could this be wax from when engine was built?

Some coolants have wax-like additives that can come out of suspension when sitting. I've never seen it gather like that, but it seems like it's possible that it's just the coolant additives doing weird things after sitting so long. If I were you, I'd put some in some water on the stove and see if it goes into solution easily when heated. If so, I don't see how it would be a problem. Obviously the truck needs a coolant change anyway. Once you get it back together and running, just run it up to temp, drain, and refill with fresh.

 

[Milcommoguy]

I have seen a few engines before. That one looks like a fresh rebuild. Torque stripped bolts and no oil hanging clinging anywhere. Motopool / contractor Just dropped the engine in and here we go. Turned over eeer eeer errrr POW. All done. Never ran, never sucked up oil. Looking at he fan (no bugs) and peeking thru the oil filler tube connection BONE DRY. Sitting for years ??? I guess it could drain out like that. I have seen more oil, preservatives on gear sets out of the box. LOL

If it was assembled dry... Shame on them. Oil can that up like it was the "TIN MAN"

IMO...everybody got one or two. Before trying to start, pull glow plugs, fill cylinders with oil. I would prime any and everything. Turn engine over till you arm or wrench wears out. (NO... big ideas to use an impact) Do it again making a mess with oil and maybe crap coming out. (cheap). Not looking to start just yet. Glow plugs still out. Easy on the starter action priming oil pump and IP / fuel system. Maybe crack the injector lines too. (already off ?)

HumV CPR lol (got good fuel in the good fuel tank, good filters too? lots to check here)

As for the crappy wax... is that stuff in the reservoir tank too?

This might help to what's up... look in around the battery box for a form 1397: Might be a love note in there.
Processing and Deprocessing Record for Shipment, Storage, and Issue of Vehicles and Spare Engines DD Form 1397 Product Quality Deficiency Report.

Guesses and my two free cents. GOOD LUCK.

SGT to SPC, Write it up and get another one to test, CAMO

 

[Mattguy]

So the lower pump drive gear sheared the key? can that be fixed without pulling the harmonic balancer and the cam drive cover, I cannot see how.

It was Valentines day, so no work on the M1123 today. I will start with pulling serpentine pully, then next harmonic balancer. If the plate had a little more room I could fix the IP sprocket that has the broken key. I am going to clean all wax I can get out and I have hot spigots in the garage so I will run 160 water through the water pump housing and try to flush what's left. As far as I know this was not a rebuild. Here is ID plate.

Govplanet listing https://www.ironplanet.com/jsp/s/item/4207026?h=null&do=1

 

[Maxjeep1]

I think you got a really nice truck with some weird issues. I hope you bought it right. My M1123 has been perfect and I had 132 miles on it when I got it. This is really a crapshoot on what you get. I just bought a non runner and I’m starting to get concerned. Inside of engine looks perfect and camo gave you some good advice on how to treat it moving forward.

 

[Mattguy]

I did end up going in the garage and cleaning out the wax that was on the truck side, as soon as I poked it green coolant started flowing out. Is it possible to put the hose in one side of block to flush out the other side? I don't see why not.

Also the backing plate that covers the IP gear and holds the water pump on didn't have a gasket but just gasket maker. Does this plate not have a gasket?

 

[Milcommoguy]

I did end up going in the garage and cleaning out the wax that was on the truck side, as soon as I poked it green coolant started flowing out. Is it possible to put the hose in one side of block to flush out the other side? I don't see why not.

Also the backing plate that covers the IP gear and holds the water pump on didn't have a gasket but just gasket maker. Does this plate not have a gasket?

That is a nice truck for $7900. Almost stole it HAha. Still scratching my head how clean and dry it is inside that engine. Might want to take a look at the thermostat to see what's might be gummed up there. With it out flush all you want.

It would be a bitch if it was a new rig and Opps never had oil when it ran...71 miles. The tags look new ?

Wax on,,, Wax off, CAMO

 

[Mattguy]

That is a nice truck for $7900. Almost stole it HAha. Still scratching my head how clean and dry it is inside that engine. Might want to take a look at the thermostat to see what's might be gummed up there. With it out flush all you want.

It would be a bitch if it was a new rig and Opps never had oil when it ran...71 miles.

Wax on,,, Wax off, CAMO

Thanks! A few went that day rather cheap with low miles like mine that were no runners. I wish it was 7900 out the door. 9800 after fee's and taxes and 1900 to ship. Still not bad for 11700! It was full of oil, changed that as soon as I got it, along with all filters. Diesel and Oil.

Crazy this thing sat for 18 years and had only 71 miles. Talk about government waste.

 

[Mogman]

Punch that wax out before removing the timing chain cover, it is possible you still have coolant behind that wax and better now than when you are in the process of removing the chain cover.
Also that button just pulls out of the front of the IP pump shaft, do not loose it down the oil pan.

 

[Mattguy]

Anyone have a good write up on setting up IP with cam gear? I've found tons of 6.5 Chevy truck write ups. But no HMMVW. I think the ip gera has to be at 6 o'clock and cam sprocket at 12.

Also if anybody has torq specs for tightening engine bolts.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Anyone have a good write up on setting up IP with cam gear? I've found tons of 6.5 Chevy truck write ups. But no HMMVW. I think the ip gera has to be at 6 o'clock and cam sprocket at 12.

Also if anybody has torq specs for tightening engine bolts.

Doubbble check me... gear set marks point to each other. Bottom at 12 up, top at 6 down and the pump only fits one way. There's a poop sheet on the torque specs. And get ready for this.... TM's

Trying to be nice for a Tuesday, CAMO

 

[Mogman]

yes just align the timing marks

 

[Mattguy]

yes just align the timing marks

What about top dead center? As long as I have balancer at 0 degrees I should be fine? I don't want to pull head to make sure I'm not 180 degrees off.

 

[Mogman]

The cam is already timed, the lower gear and the upper gear are 1:1 so you cannot get it 180 out as long as you do not disturb the CHAIN timing.

 

[Mogman]

Interesting is the two pictures are different, the one from the web looks like no problem pulling the timing cover, yours looks to extend behind the lower gear, will be interested on how that comes apart.
Unless your cover is actually two pieces....

 

[Mattguy]

Interesting is the two pictures are different, the one from the web looks like no problem pulling the timing cover, yours looks to extend behind the lower gear, will be interested on how that comes apart.
Unless your cover is actually two pieces....

Its a two piece cover. The water pump and backing plate and then lower timing cover that has bolts that actually go up through oil pan.

Just waiting on parts from AMgeneral. Its a blessing that I live an hour away and can get parts direct in 2 days. It does stink that they don't have a will call to pick up parts. But when I called them the parts guy said that the union guys wouldn't have it. I guess it would cut too much work out of there ordering process if someone was just going there to pick up a part.

He did say they are still producing HMMWV's but mostly for foreign countries.

 

[Mogman]

Its a two piece cover. The water pump and backing plate and then lower timing cover that has bolts that actually go up through oil pan.

Just waiting on parts from AMgeneral. Its a blessing that I live an hour away and can get parts direct in 2 days. It does stink that they don't have a will call to pick up parts. But when I called them the parts guy said that the union guys wouldn't have it. I guess it would cut too much work out of there ordering process if someone was just going there to pick up a part.

He did say they are still producing HMMWV's but mostly for foreign countries.

Interesting, so what you are saying is there is still two parts of the cover in place in those pictures?,, I just looked at a 1993 6.2 and a 2009 GEP turbo and they both have a one piece cover, wonder when/why they split that cover in half?

 

[Mattguy]

Interesting, so what you are saying is there is still two parts of the cover in place in those pictures?,, I just looked at a 1993 6.2 and a 2009 GEP turbo and they both have a one piece cover, wonder when/why they split that cover in half?

It is just two pieces top with water pump attached and bottom, which I have to pull harmonic balancer to remove.