Its cold outside lets talk Heaters, H81, H82, H83, etc.

[Guyfang]

Could the "buzzing" Be the igniter, firing off, but no start? I seem to remember that after a certain amount of firing, and no flame, it will cut out the igniter, to cool it off. Hence, sometimes you hear it, sometimes you dont?

 

[Drkatzphd3]

Its the same as an oil burner set up, NY has lots of those dont they? force in Air, force in fuel, toss in an igniter and you got heat

Yes, unfortunately many of the new to the industry guys look at you weird when you tell them what it is and since they are not familiar with the model tell me they can't help me. I'm sure the older techs would have no issue. I am going to take a crack at it myself this weekend, we shall see.

 

[Drkatzphd3]

Does your igniter look pretty blue when not on heat?

That's the thing, I have never seen the blue. It has always fired up when turned on , but I have never seen the arc. I will have to move it again so I can see in there again.

 

[Drkatzphd3]

Could the "buzzing" Be the igniter, firing off, but no start? I seem to remember that after a certain amount of firing, and no flame, it will cut out the igniter, to cool it off. Hence, sometimes you hear it, sometimes you dont?

yes that is what I am thinking. The buzzing is coming from the transformer box connected to the igniter, and when you look through the glass you see the flame going on and off to the the buzzing.

 

[155mm]

Yeah, if that were mine, i would pull burner and clean, then adjust igniter

 

[Smallblockfuelie]

How do I go about properly setting up the two heater control knobs?

 

[155mm]

which knobs are you referring to? photo?

 

[Smallblockfuelie]

which knobs are you referring to? photo?

these two. Thanks.

 

[155mm]

Those are intake (cold air) and exhaust (heated air)temp adjustment,

set them at the temp you want the burner to kick off, same like your house thermostat

 

[155mm]

So i have more time to explain,

if you have ducting on the heated exhaust air that has some bends, or restricted, you want to run that temp like 10*F warmer tokeep the burner from kicking on and off.

if you dont have ducting, set exhaust temp at what you want the exhaust air temp, and the intake air needs to be like 20 warmer bc it sucks the heated air back in.

or you can just turn them both wide open

 

[Smallblockfuelie]

Has anyone separated one of these units to get the fuel tank out? I’ve read over the process in the TM but it doesn’t say anything about removing the suction or return fuel lines from the tank.

Im not building fuel pressure and when I loosened the suction side line at the pump it was under vacuum. I’m going to pull the tank and clean it.

 

[155mm]

Not a bad idea, but every one that i have worked on the fuel gauge was not correct.

i would pull the pickup tube first, or blow air backwards, if you aren’t moving it around all the junk should say settled in the bottom.

 

[Smallblockfuelie]

I did blow back through the fuel line into the tank, twice. It cleared the line and it was able build pressure and ran for awhile, then eventually lost pressure entirely. My assumption is that fuel is returning back to the tank when that second solenoid opens and is stirring everything in my tank and causing it to pick up more debris. I appreciate your comments.

 

[155mm]

Are you still using the midevil filter setup? I understand its just for major debris, but wow.

i might try a real filter setup unless you have time and warm weather to tear the heater all down.

i dont think you have to remove all of the components, i think i would try just pulling the fuel lines and all the bolts that hold the cabinet to base

 

[155mm]

Tm does say under conditions, solenoid valves removed which includes the lines

 

[Smallblockfuelie]

Are you still using the midevil filter setup? I understand its just for major debris, but wow.

i might try a real filter setup unless you have time and warm weather to tear the heater all down.

i dont think you have to remove all of the components, i think i would try just pulling the fuel lines and all the bolts that hold the cabinet to base

I just came to the house to warm up after dumping the fuel tank. You’ve been a great help answering questions for folks on this heater and I wanted to share what I’ve learned about removing the tank.

The hard suction hose and the 90 degree brass elbow which goes down to the tank need to be disconnected. The flexible return line needs to be disconnected. Around both of those fittings is a lot of silicone that needs to be broke up so those fittings, which are secure to the top of the fuel tank, will pull through the holes in the bottom of the enclosure. Picture attached to show how they connect to the tank.

I pulled the fuel gauge and cap for the fuel fill hole as well. Around both of those is a lot more of the silicone that needs to be broke up to allow everything to separate. as soon as I broke up the seal of that silicone everything separate easily.

As a side note, I tried lifting the case off with some 3/8 eye bolts from my local hardware store. They weren’t right, but it was all I was able to get in this small town. Anyway, as soon as the lift started to make my line taut I noticed it was bending the case. I stopped lifting and built this contraption you see in the picture. It is crude, but got the job done.

 

[155mm]

Well, i finally had a fuel pump coupler fail, so i am having some 3d printed with abs, we will use those cheap ones for fit and finish, then distructive testing to measure strength of different print orientation, after we figure strength, we will have new couplers machined from deleron or teflon

if anyone wants one, speak up, will also post in classified when finalled and have a real cost

i know there is a seller on a big site that sell OEM couplers, but i am not a fan of a part designed to fail

 

[155mm]

So on another heater while it was so cold, had issues with fluctating fuel psi, not bad like 5 lbs, and sometimes kicking redlight of death on, find its leaking air at ‘intermal/external’ valve, figure while i am deleting stuff might want to put a better filter on.

well i get that fixed, its all purged primed up, stupid thing now wont run, red light of death, yeah, i have a new k8 no problem, oh wait lets do some distructive testing first, drill 4 holes in body of reset of k8, guess what, the stupid thing works better than ever

you can see the holes in k8

 

[Smallblockfuelie]

Where do I find the part number for the S1 solenoid? It tests bad and would explain why I can’t make any pressure. I’d like to get a replacement found and on the way. Thanks!

 

[Guyfang]

You do not have a parts TM?