Its cold outside lets talk Heaters, H81, H82, H83, etc.

155mm

Chief and Indian
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,095
219
63
Location
Guymon, OK
Those are intake (cold air) and exhaust (heated air)temp adjustment,

set them at the temp you want the burner to kick off, same like your house thermostat
 
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155mm

Chief and Indian
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,095
219
63
Location
Guymon, OK
So i have more time to explain,

if you have ducting on the heated exhaust air that has some bends, or restricted, you want to run that temp like 10*F warmer tokeep the burner from kicking on and off.

if you dont have ducting, set exhaust temp at what you want the exhaust air temp, and the intake air needs to be like 20 warmer bc it sucks the heated air back in.

or you can just turn them both wide open
 
154
4
18
Location
NW Missouri
Has anyone separated one of these units to get the fuel tank out? I’ve read over the process in the TM but it doesn’t say anything about removing the suction or return fuel lines from the tank.

Im not building fuel pressure and when I loosened the suction side line at the pump it was under vacuum. I’m going to pull the tank and clean it.
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,095
219
63
Location
Guymon, OK
Not a bad idea, but every one that i have worked on the fuel gauge was not correct.

i would pull the pickup tube first, or blow air backwards, if you aren’t moving it around all the junk should say settled in the bottom.
 
154
4
18
Location
NW Missouri
I did blow back through the fuel line into the tank, twice. It cleared the line and it was able build pressure and ran for awhile, then eventually lost pressure entirely. My assumption is that fuel is returning back to the tank when that second solenoid opens and is stirring everything in my tank and causing it to pick up more debris. I appreciate your comments.
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,095
219
63
Location
Guymon, OK
Are you still using the midevil filter setup? I understand its just for major debris, but wow.

i might try a real filter setup unless you have time and warm weather to tear the heater all down.

i dont think you have to remove all of the components, i think i would try just pulling the fuel lines and all the bolts that hold the cabinet to base
 
154
4
18
Location
NW Missouri
Are you still using the midevil filter setup? I understand its just for major debris, but wow.

i might try a real filter setup unless you have time and warm weather to tear the heater all down.

i dont think you have to remove all of the components, i think i would try just pulling the fuel lines and all the bolts that hold the cabinet to base
I just came to the house to warm up after dumping the fuel tank. You’ve been a great help answering questions for folks on this heater and I wanted to share what I’ve learned about removing the tank.

The hard suction hose and the 90 degree brass elbow which goes down to the tank need to be disconnected. The flexible return line needs to be disconnected. Around both of those fittings is a lot of silicone that needs to be broke up so those fittings, which are secure to the top of the fuel tank, will pull through the holes in the bottom of the enclosure. Picture attached to show how they connect to the tank.

I pulled the fuel gauge and cap for the fuel fill hole as well. Around both of those is a lot more of the silicone that needs to be broke up to allow everything to separate. as soon as I broke up the seal of that silicone everything separate easily.

As a side note, I tried lifting the case off with some 3/8 eye bolts from my local hardware store. They weren’t right, but it was all I was able to get in this small town. Anyway, as soon as the lift started to make my line taut I noticed it was bending the case. I stopped lifting and built this contraption you see in the picture. It is crude, but got the job done.
 

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155mm

Chief and Indian
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,095
219
63
Location
Guymon, OK
Well, i finally had a fuel pump coupler fail, so i am having some 3d printed with abs, we will use those cheap ones for fit and finish, then distructive testing to measure strength of different print orientation, after we figure strength, we will have new couplers machined from deleron or teflon

if anyone wants one, speak up, will also post in classified when finalled and have a real cost

i know there is a seller on a big site that sell OEM couplers, but i am not a fan of a part designed to fail

120BA1E7-15D0-4893-859D-490B185BF6B3.jpeg
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,095
219
63
Location
Guymon, OK
So on another heater while it was so cold, had issues with fluctating fuel psi, not bad like 5 lbs, and sometimes kicking redlight of death on, find its leaking air at ‘intermal/external’ valve, figure while i am deleting stuff might want to put a better filter on.

well i get that fixed, its all purged primed up, stupid thing now wont run, red light of death, yeah, i have a new k8 no problem, oh wait lets do some distructive testing first, drill 4 holes in body of reset of k8, guess what, the stupid thing works better than ever

you can see the holes in k8

20B9FBE0-38CC-4C88-8F61-0C06965246BE.jpeg
 
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