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Its cold outside lets talk Heaters, H81, H82, H83, etc.

Guyfang

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What model number is your heater? I have not read the whole thread, So its hard to tell you what TM to look for. But, if you look at your data plate, it will tell you what model you have and what Operators TM you need. For instance, lets say your operator TM is TM5-4520-256-14. The parts TM should look something like this: TM5-4520-256-24P. Balls in your court!
 
167
18
18
Location
NW Missouri
What model number is your heater? I have not read the whole thread, So its hard to tell you what TM to look for. But, if you look at your data plate, it will tell you what model you have and what Operators TM you need. For instance, lets say your operator TM is TM5-4520-256-14. The parts TM should look something like this: TM5-4520-256-24P. Balls in your court!
thank you. That will help.
 

EdMontana

Member
279
5
18
Location
TN
Hello,


I have a H81 heater, it was running for 6 winters so far, today it stop producing heat after running for 10~15 minutes and I have not found the problem yet.

What I have noticed prior this event, there is a small diesel leak from the gas tank (bottom), it was running fine for weeks with the leak, seems like leaks only with the tank is almost full so possibly some sort of a pin hole in the upper side of the tank.

That aside, was running just fine until stopped producing heat and the buzzer went on. Also noticed that the diesel is at the hose by the primer bulb.

What I have done:

I pulled the nozzle out, was fine and unobstructed, I cleaned well the black tar in the grille and checked the electrodes gap per manual specifications, was all fine there. When the heater is on, it is very visible the blue spark between electrodes.

So, I believe the problem is that the diesel is not getting to the nozzle.

I am thinking in put a external container with diesel and use the external inlet and see if I get any results, I have not seeing anything about external tanks, if need be pressurized or what?...any other input on the cause of my problems would be appreciated as I am no experts on this at all.


Thanks!
 
167
18
18
Location
NW Missouri
Check the flame sensor for proper alignment. The sensor is held in place with a rubber tube, tube gets hot, then cools down and pulls the sensor out of alignment. Not the greatest enginerding , had 1 heater that had to be re-engineered with plastic ties to keep it in place.
thank you. Mine started giving me the red light of frustration yesterday after getting the shop up to 60 and cycling off. I’m revisiting this topic and trying to trouble shoot. I’m following the steps in TM 5-4520-256-14. I have the correct fuel pressures, flame in the sight glass and get the red safety release light after 10-15 seconds. You and the manual says to check the flame detecter.

I tore into my unit this AM and noticed mine was a little out of alignment. Has anyone come up with a better solution to keep this from happening? Anything else I should check or do while I’m this far into the unity before I reassemble to test? Thank you.
 

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EdMontana

Member
279
5
18
Location
TN
thank you. Mine started giving me the red light of frustration yesterday after getting the shop up to 60 and cycling off. I’m revisiting this topic and trying to trouble shoot. I’m following the steps in TM 5-4520-256-14. I have the correct fuel pressures, flame in the sight glass and get the red safety release light after 10-15 seconds. You and the manual says to check the flame detector.

I tore into my unit this AM and noticed mine was a little out of alignment. Has anyone come up with a better solution to keep this from happening? Anything else I should check or do while I’m this far into the unity before I reassemble to test? Thank you.
That's what happened to me...my shop went to 90F , it was running after but without flame, have reached hi temps many times before without an issue. It is frustrating, they over engineered those units, the more parts...bigger the price. I disassembled my burner, the injector was clean...they usually get a crust at tip if you don't let it cool down enough before turning off, that was my first time learning when the unit stop working years ago, I have an H81 so the coupler is metal and is not the issue, diesel seems like to flow OK, I got an auxiliary tank and was sucking the diesel good but no flame on burner still. My blue arc is always on, I even gaged the tips. Finally, I replaced the K8 relay with an "exact" same new relay..still...no flame. I don't know if could be a sensor...and if sensor shut the arc or shut the diesel flow ? I am guessing the diesel flow, this damn thing has 3 sensors (that I saw at least). Need be careful buying parts not knowing what is wrong, I paid $200 for the unit 7 years ago and already wasted over $100 on a K8...it can be sooo many things wrong. I will try a few more things when I have a chance.
 
167
18
18
Location
NW Missouri
hi temps many times before without an issue. It is frustrating, they over engineered those units, the more parts...bigger the price. I disassembled my burner, the injector was clean...they usually get a crust at tip if you don't let it cool down enough before turning off, that was my first time learning when the unit stop working years ago, I have an H81 so the coupler is metal and is not the issue, diesel seems like to flow OK, I got an auxiliary tank and was sucking the diesel good but no flame on burner, I replaced the K8 relay with an "exact" same n I don't know if could be a sensor...and if sensor shut the arc or shut the diesel flow ? I am guessing the diesel flow, this damn thing has 3 sensors (that I saw at least). Need be careful buying parts not knowing what is wrong, I paid $200 for the unit 7 years ago and already wasted over $100 on a K8...it can be sooo many things wrong. I will try a few more things when I have a chance.
Are you getting fuel pressure? there is a pretty quick and simple test for the two solenoids with a multimeter. you won’t get fuel to the injector if they’re not functional.
 

EdMontana

Member
279
5
18
Location
TN
Are you getting fuel pressure? there is a pretty quick and simple test for the two solenoids with a multimeter. you won’t get fuel to the injector if they’re not functional.
yes, when turning the knob to heat it goes around 100, but 10~15 seconds after instead the flame turns on the red light comes on...I was so sure that was the K8....but is not the problem
 
167
18
18
Location
NW Missouri
EdMontana, I have FINALLY found a solution to my red light of death issue. I will describe what my unit was doing and then the solution for future readers. I have correct fuel pressure, can see flame through the sight window, but the red light and buzzer come on after 10-15 seconds after setting the switch to heat. I checked the alignment of the flame detector sensor, it was good.

i finally cut the zip tie holding the flame detector sensor and pulled it from the weird rubber boot that holds it in place. I noticed the screen on the sensor was VERY dirty. I cleaned it with MAF cleaner, hit it with air to make sure it was dry and reinstalled. Replace the sensor and placed another zip tie to hold it in place. I’ve finally got heat in the shop again and it’s working properly.
 

EdMontana

Member
279
5
18
Location
TN
EdMontana, I have FINALLY found a solution to my red light of death issue. I will describe what my unit was doing and then the solution for future readers. I have correct fuel pressure, can see flame through the sight window, but the red light and buzzer come on after 10-15 seconds after setting the switch to heat. I checked the alignment of the flame detector sensor, it was good.

i finally cut the zip tie holding the flame detector sensor and pulled it from the weird rubber boot that holds it in place. I noticed the screen on the sensor was VERY dirty. I cleaned it with MAF cleaner, hit it with air to make sure it was dry and reinstalled. Replace the sensor and placed another zip tie to hold it in place. I’ve finally got heat in the shop again and it’s working properly.
Thanks for the update, I finally had some time today, I got the sensor out...appears to be a photocell light sensor, which needs to be aligned to the peep hole in the front panel so it can see the flame (mine is an H81, it is different than yours) . For what I understand, that sensor will sense when there is flame at burner, not sure if that would be the problem. Anyway, mine had a light black dust in it, cleaned and was hopeful but no joy.
I think my problem is that the diesel is not going to the injector, something is preventing the flow. I took my diesel filter out and there is no way to open it, it is sealed but does not look like it is obstructed, I am planning in adapt another type of filter...the way they did the plumbing is just backwards, guess they did not planned that someone would need to service the filter in the future.
 
167
18
18
Location
NW Missouri
I think my problem is that the diesel is not going to the injector, something is preventing the flow. I took my diesel filter out and there is no way to open it, it is sealed but does not look like it is obstructed, I am planning in adapt another type of filter...the way they did the plumbing is just backwards, guess they did not planned that someone would need to service the filter in the future.
i had a bad solenoid earlier, it is pretty easy to test them with a multimeter and the TM.
 

BKubu

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Does anyone know where I can find the 120V electrical connection for an H140 Choctaw heater? I recently acquired it, and I'd like to test it out. I can obviously cut the cable and splice something in, but I'd prefer to find the correct cable. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

155mm

Chief and Indian
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Guymon, OK
Does anyone know where I can find the 120V electrical connection for an H140 Choctaw heater? I recently acquired it, and I'd like to test it out. I can obviously cut the cable and splice something in, but I'd prefer to find the correct cable. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

not an adapter that I know of, just whack off the amphenol connector, and the wires in the cable are color coded like a house.
 

BKubu

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
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not an adapter that I know of, just whack off the amphenol connector, and the wires in the cable are color coded like a house.
I thought I saw in the manual there was an electrical connection for 120V use. But, I might be mistaken as I don't know a lot about these heaters. I will do as you suggested. Thanks!
 
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